Z Kid

Just out of pure curiosity, what prices do they run to, and what gauge steel are they compared to the originals?

It didnt have a compliance plate fitted (to my knowledge), but the rego states it was a 1977 260Z Engine L26159473 It was black, but originally a kind of weird purply/browny metallicy colour (if that makes sense) 5 speed manual, black interior OK Here is another one from the back yard GRS30-015458 (holy $^!#, they were exactly 100 apart, which may make the above rego papers wrong) Complianced 12/76 Automatic, Light metalic blue (305) Cream/off white interior Originally L26 160875 Now L26 161122 (if this is anyone out theres original numbered block, it is yours for the taking) Current status, not roadworth, severe rust issues, in bits (but there is a person who thinks its worth saving, so I will let you know if it gets scrapped or saved) Cheers Chris PS Still need to get the numbers off the guy with 8 or9 Z's near me

GRS30- 015358 260Z 2+2, NOW DECEASED ID plate here, had original motor etc

I hope you now put all that money towards a good project, like getting your beast on the road? How close is it to being done?

I was just looking at the carport and fence, and thinking jeez that looks familiar, and I can remember he had a white 240. When I was browsing, he had three Z cars, he had the 260, the green and very rusty 240 shell (he paid 600 for inspite of the yarn he tells) and a white one with a sunroof. Not being derogatory, but if you didnt get the paperwork with the Z, it may pay to go and check exactly what the defect was for (I think it was defected when he got it and originally came from the adealide hills) Good Luck Chris

It is very ugly, and whats worse is it looks great, and you walk away to let it cool down, come back 5minutes later, and your panel has developed a wave down the length of the weld. Its interesting to try welding two flat bits of sheet metal together in a long seam, and just look what happens, even better would be a couple of old car panels you have lying round, accident damaged or whatever, just take the grinder, cut them in many pieces and weld it back together. (dont do what I did and do it on a whole good car panel, and have to cut it out and try again)

So this is a car you bought from Vicotor? He doesnt still have the cheap green shell with no defects etc kicking around?

Where its external, you have to weld the whole length of the join, then grind flush, but where the original panel spot welds etc on, you just drill holes and plug weld using the mig. Make sure you only weld an inch or so at a time, otherwise the panel heats up, and on cooling changes shape drastically.

I think anything said in the article should be taken with a pinch of salt, seemed to have a few errors to me, or maybe I just misinterpreted the text. Oh well for four bucks I guess I can use it to start a fire next time it gets cold. I am still waiting for Alans Z car book, so I have a truthful reference to base it all on.

I am in SA, I have asked around (after I saw your ozdat ad), and couldn't find any of the local guys willing to do it, mainly due to the legal implications if they get caught, they are not going to give you plates traceable to them, you also need the firewall number as well. Is your Z really that bad, it looks cosmetically OK. If you do decide to give up, let me know, I could sure use some of the bits off your Z on mine, and I am local too, so when it all gets too much, give me a yell and I will drag it away

On the Early Z's, it just had vinyl covering, the 2+2's and or later Z's had hard plastic trim.

Farting about and shitting itself under load sounds like it could be the condenser, or the dizzy cap may have corroded a bit on the contacts. My money would be on the condenser.

Silicone brake fluid is good, but if used in a system which has had conventional fluid in it, it can lead to seizing of brake components etc. Also when left for a long time, guys around the car club here seem to have problems with it developing leaks.

I have done a search,a nd come up with some conflicting answers, I was planning to attach the front of my rotisserie to the bumper mounts (is just a bare shell) but many seem to use the tow hook points, its nearly made at bumper mount stage, will this be ok? Cheers Chris

Where did you get that poster from, I could see something like that taking pride of place on my bedroom wall. In two years of searching, I have never found a 240Z poster in aus.

That was last weeks add, and it actually went that day, I saw it and its not a real dash, but a fibreglass cap to stick over the whole dash, comes in black with original pattern. Alfa Fibreglass made it many moons ago, it was pretty well done, the car he had also had fibreglass front panels by alfa and they were pretty damn nice. Maybe they have to 260 mould as well?

Gav, not trying to talk you out of it, but you DO NOT want to sit in a solid plastic racing seat for any lenght of time, unless you have some serious adrenalin pumping through your system, its not a nice feeling.

Its probably been posted before, but I couldnt find it in the forums, might be of use when you start Z car hunting. If the ad claims... It really means... rough condition... too bad to lie about parts car... beyond repair immaculate... recently washed concours... recently waxed engine quiet... if you use 90-weight oil needs minor overhaul... needs engine needs major overhaul... Phone the junkyard burns no oil... (it all leaks out) rebuilt engine... Cleaned the spark plugs. Drive it away... I live on a hill. Drive it anywhere... (within 10 miles) desirable classic... No one wants it. rare classic... No one wanted it even when it was new. stored 20 years... (in a farmer's field) ran when stored... Won't start. never apart... Bolts too rounded to loosen. solid as a rock... rusted solid restored, with 0 miles... Won't start. restored, with 2 miles... Won't stay running. older restoration... First owner washed it. good investment... Can't be worth much less. no time to restore it... Can't obtain parts. 95% complete... Other 5% doesn't exist. Other interests conflict... Spouse's ultimatum: "Either that #!!@# thing goes or I go!" Doesn't smoke... when it's out of oil. New slick racing tires... I burned the tread down to the belts. Re-upholstered... New K-mart seat covers and floor mats. Major preformance upgrades... Bolted a new exhaust tip on the tailpipe. Kept in garage... The scratches are from my cat. Pampered/adult driven... I'm 17 and I think it's about to die. Complete restoration... New Earl Scheib paint. New paint... Don't let it get wet. Sporty... It's got a floor shifter. Family car... There's still food under the seats. Good school/work car... More dents than a golf ball. Worth $xxx--sacrifice for $xx... I can't believe I paid $xx for it myself. Lots of extras... Everything that fell off/out is in the trunk. Quiet engine... You can't hear it over the broken headers. Traction control... Starts moving only in 2nd gear. Race modified... It's got Japanese stickers on the back window. Exotic... It leaves a funny taste in your mouth. Precision machined... I used a degreaser. FAST... -ER than my mom's Geo.

Heres one for the oldies out there

For me it has to be non vented (I am keeping both to keep my options open) but at this stage the non vented just looks cleaner, a few stamped in vents might look ok (like the ones out of a school locker/e type)