Terrapin Z
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Everything posted by Terrapin Z
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I have picked up cars that look like this for $200 - $300 though they were later 72, 73, 74 vintage. At least it has the ashtray / fuse cover (if not damaged), and the radio as other have mentioned (good $ there). At a minimum there's money in the carbs. even as cores to ZT and hubs and stub axles are always a good seller. struts can be swapped for TTT credit if you like their products or sold outright. Might have an E31 head too. (?) or an early E88. Like others I have a pile of parts I can't throw out, but nobody seems to want. I even did the $1.00 per pound offer on CL once and did move some things, better than the .03 cents a pound for scrap I get for the really rusty parts. $1500 would be a bit steep for me, but if you show up with cash and make an offer, who knows. worth looking into I'd say. (my 2 cents) -
Okay, second freezer test was to place the probe in the freezer (again WAY colder than any cars interior should be unless your stuck in a snow bank in Siberia) Immediately the on/off click moves up the dial clockwise and within 30 seconds it has maxed out the switch. Upon pulling the probe from the freezer the click moves back down the dial counterclockwise at a slower rate as the probe adjusts to room temp. Every click up or down the dial had continuity up and down (on/off) in the correct manner for the switch. I then placed a small gel freezer pack in a glass of water and place the probe in that. I moved the dial to the approximate temperature for the click. when reaching the "desired cold" the unit clicks and continuity is separated. I then pulled the probe out of the glass (without tuning the dial) and in about a minute the unit clicked on indicating the compressor needs to come on and make more cold. Placing the probe back in the water resulted in the unit clicking off indicating the compressor is off as the car is now cold enough. I ran that test about 10 times. and as the glass of water warmed, it took longer to trip the unit. Another freezer gel pack made it click back faster. To me this all indicates the switch and probe are working as one would expect it to. The last test would be to hook it up in a car and see how it preforms in a live correct environment. I would, but I do not have an A/C car to try it on. I welcome any questions or comments on this. It is for sale. KiraK has first dibs.
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Well I intended to recheck continuity after the freezer test but got busy and by the time I got back to it, it was clicking the same as it did at room temp. I fully intend to do a more comprehensive cold / continuity test on it. As I do not have A/C in my car and as stated prior my intent was to flip it, so making sure it works right is an important step in that process. I won't sell it if it ends up being no good. Not my style. Preliminary results (no click when immediately pulled from freezer) are that it is functioning and will warrant further testing. I am going to test continuity as it cools off in the freezer the click should move further clockwise, and as it warms back up coming out the click moves counterclockwise. I'd be happy to document my results here on this thread for those that are interested. Might be tomorrow though as I am headed out for the evening.
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So I put the tube in the freezer for 2 hours and retested the switch. There was no click at all when turned, I expect this is because no car is ever at 32 degrees or less for air conditioning. I pulled the tube out of the freezer and let it come up to room temp and the click came back. Per my statement above I think this switch is working. The only real way to tell is to install it in a car and see if it functions properly. I do not have the A/C in my car. so I can not test it in a live situation.
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From what I read on Hybrids the flats preform better (tuned correctly), as for fuel economy I have not heard. For me fuel economy is irrelevant as my Z is not a daily driver. I drive it for fun and I really don't care if it sucks the fuel. I am having a blast driving it! Older EFI makes me uneasy as any of the car companies really did not know all the ins and out as they do now. Seems to me a lot can go wrong and the parts to fix it can be hard to find. just MHO. Please don't take offense, I just don't like the old EFI but expect it works fine as there are a lot of Z's out there with FI. I just like the mechanical aspect of carbs. in my cars. To each his own right?
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My thought was that as the tube gets colder the switch would need to be turned farther clockwise to have the contacts engage thus starting the compressor again to then make it even colder. Right now at room temperature the click come with minimal turning. I was going to test this theory by sticking the tube in the freezer and seeing if the switch click comes on later. Once the switch reaches the thermostatic setting it should then click off, thus turning the compressor off. until such time as the car environment starts to warm then the switch would turn on and run the compressor again. I'm going to test it an see what happens. I did not pay much for the switch so if it is no good I am not out much.
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Happy Dance!! Kira, Those are good carbs weather they be 3 or 4 screw, they should work fine. After some 40+ years of use and time the bushings for the throttle butterfly get worn and the loose their seal. That makes them not run as well, erratic idle. That is the biggest "fix" for ZT carbs as he replaces the bushing with bearings. Some say the flat tops are a better performer, but are very hard to find parts for. Having only made them 1 year and then switching to fuel injection. They are often disregarded as an option for those other than period restorations. IMHO They also had the most EPA components on the system, ie: the ERG valve on the balance tube. You however, should be good to go with those sans any air leaks. Do get the ZT DVD and learn about them. even if you have someone else tune them first, it is always good to know a little something about these old cars when your out for a drive and something goes amiss. At least you can attempt a fix on the road to get you home. Get her going and enjoy the ride.......... TZ
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I do have some carbs I answered on your other thread. They will need some work, but if you have a good mechanic now it might still be less expensive than Z therapy plus the mechanics tuning. You mentioned you were on a budget. My hatch strut seems to be marginal at best. The hatch falls down on me when left open. so it is probably no better than yours. I do have a turn signal but it has very rust bolts and screws. the lens and backing are good but you would need to get the bolts and mounting hardware out first. That's it for my stash of parts. I hope I can test out this A/C switch an see if it will work for you. I am not sure if I can confirm it works without hooking it up to the system it needs to be on. If you want to try it and see, I would offer a refund if it does not work.
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The end of the copper tube looks crimped shut. when tested for continuity, with the switch "off" (full counterclockwise) i get no continuity. (red / black) With the switch "on" past the "click" (clockwise) I do get continuity. It looks similar to the switch in my camper van for the fridge. The copper tube goes in the freezer and the switch controls the temp. When I pulled it out of the car the copper tube came out of the box mounted under the glove box by the blower motor. power and ground came red wire came from power and black line came from the compressor area. (which had been removed from the car.
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Thanks Mark, I had thought the flat tops were 73 (240) and 74 (260) but it would make sense that mid year 72 might be sold as a 73. (Ergo flat tops) Anyway for reference (also for sale) Flat tops with N33 manifolds (note the balance tube has a place for an EGR valve). These are less complete missing some linkage and the balance tube has some messed up threads. These also had coolant jackets I believe. I agree completely with MM about the "Just SU" DVD lots of good info there. These carbs look more complicated than they really are. I have Z Therapy 4 screw on my '70.
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Kira, I see you have a couple of posts going at once. Here is a pic of the 3 screw carbs I picked up off a 280ZX that had grenaded the motor. I believe these are the correct carbs for a 72. Perhaps someone here could verify that. E88 manifolds look to have a small cavern into the carbs for the coolant. the insulators have the two extra holes for coolant, as CO stated above. The PO told me his car was running fine until a rod came out of the side of the block to say hello. (his phrase) They look to be all there but I would recommend they be gone through and cleaned up before running them. They at least need new gaskets, oil, etc. Again other members can chime in and verify these as being 72 and complete. TZ
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Kira, Here is some pics of the A/C controller I have. It looks different than one I see on Ebay right now. It could be aftermarket. Perhaps someone here on the forum could chime in on that. It came out of a 71 I found at the junkyard. I thought it was a good piece to snag as I don't find many cars with A/C in them.
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Hi Kira, I have parted a 72 and 2 73's and a 74 so I have a few parts around. I think I can help you with a few things. I have some choke knobs, I picked up a A/C control unit at a Junk yard so I am not sure how well it works but is moves freely and make the tick (switch) sound when the knob is turned. I should have a good hatch strut as well. I have some SU's 4 and 3 screw but either would need servicing. I can get some pics to you if interested. Let me know, TZ
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It also looks like the plastic friction pads are cracked and broken. I bought my early knob set from you Steve. (I thought they looked off in the bay ad) It will be interesting to see if it sells, and for how much.
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/datsun-240Z-series-1-choke-throttle-cable-assembly-new-nos-/301849145784?hash=item46479c71b8:g:zrYAAOSwCypWmcdu&vxp=mtr Only $1850 or best offer. (Not mine, I just ran across it.)
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03492 for sale in OR, East of Salem. Looks pretty rusty and has a spun crank bearing. http://salem.craigslist.org/pts/5280971074.html
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I looked at this car too, as a car to part out. It looked to me like there was a lot more missing or bad than just the quarter. I passed on it. If you are looking for a project I have a 73 in a more complete state but would still need some work. You could still get this one and use parts off of it. PM if interested. I am in Rochester (WA not NY)
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Looks like there is an 84 in TN (gas) $100.00 http://www.CharliesUsedAutoParts.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi
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Might be a far stretch but the differential mounting isolator will make a clunking noise if the rubber has separated. The sound might travel through the car metal to make it seam like it is coming from the shock tower. It is hard to tell just by looking at it but if you push up on the front of the differential by the drive shaft it should not lift apart at the rubber isolator. kind of a common thing to separate. Worth checking out if you haven't already. Mine was split. I had a clunk.
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There just happens to be another CL seller with the RHD dash, pedal box, and wiper set up selling at the same time. Just coincidence from what I understand. The seller I bought from said he offered the RHD parts guy a dash cap but no sale. Ironically one the extra pieces I ended up with was the RHD dash cap, Which would be needed if one were to purchase the RHD parts form seller number 2. You are correct about the bumpers, they came off a 72 roller I found in a front yard near Napavine a few years back.
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I ended up with that bunch of CL parts. The guy had a RHD Fairlady he had sold for 21K and for some reason the buyer didn't want the parts. This seller just wanted is all out of the garage. I ended up with a lot more than was in the pictures. Well worth the $ and drive up to Bellevue. The throttle piece had the cable but not the knob. I just saw a complete choke/throttle on Ebay sold for $350
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My parts car has that pan. I think it is a Canadian car as it had no evep. tank. It is a 7/70. #9885 E31 block.
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That really sucks, that is a nice car. I understand your reward completely. I know this is too late now, but perhaps for others. A fuel cut off switch at the tank works great. Sure they steal your car but only get 6 blocks and it dies. they can't restart and then bail. You get your car back with some break in damage and a hot wire, but you still have your car. They would have to be top notch thieves if they come and tow truck your car away. Thats serious planning!! I wish you the best of luck in the recovery Scott.
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I have one from a 70 if you are looking for a proper fit.
