LeonV

I see. We're playing the ego game. If Mr. Jones has a Ford GT or a 911 Turbo, you don't really stand a chance no matter what you do. This is not a wise goal or specification in a build.

The cam is where it should be. Maybe whoever put your head gasket on adjusted the cam as well, or it's simply an indication that your chain is in good shape.

Okay, then perform the tune up and see how it feels. I can have plenty of fun with a stock L24, let alone an L28. The things that make the biggest differences in driveability are not engine-related, IMO. First thing I'd do is a 3.9 or numerically higher rear diff and a late ZX 5-speed. Those changes wake the car up, more than bolting in little bits to the engine, especially if it's stock EFI. Tires are also on the list of things that completely transform the car. Invest in those things first, after a tune-up. Refer to Braap's fairly comprehensive post on modifying an engine with stock EFI: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/95316-braaps-l6-efi-induction-advice-and-tips/

None of those are better than a proper tune-up.

1 fast Z aka Bryan Blake: index

Exactly! Go through the FSM and give every system a tune up. The results will far exceed those from throwing bolt-on parts at your engine. Answer: a resounding no. A bump in octane will help if and only if you have pre-ignition or detonation at MBT timing.

If the engine starts to fire but doesn't catch, then yes. You need to be more descriptive of your problem, a video would help.

Sounds like a vacuum and exhaust leak to me. Spray some ether or propane around the mating surfaces and other possibly exposed parts of the intake, to check for vac leaks. Exhaust leaks will sound like clicks and should be easily detectable once the car is running.

Did you replace the intake/exhaust gasket? You may have created a vacuum leak.

Really had to dig for this one: Engine Pull? Ignore the rest of the thread... ZC.com, enough said.

Engine hoist? I dropped mine from the bottom...

You don't want the wheels moving at all. Tie the steering wheel firmly. I didn't see a mention of a spoiler in OP's post. And no, I don't think it would be an issue unless the car was lowered and the dolly raised it up to an extreme angle. If it is an issue, take the air dam off.

Or you can just tow with the rear wheels up...

What makes you think the gasket is leaking? Did you check for leaks?

Agreed. It transforms the car!

Check the throttle blade with the pedal wide open. Adjust the pedal stop as necessary.

Door beams first appeared on the '73 240Z. Late 240Z and all 260Z doors are noticeably heavier than early 240Z versions. FWIW, if you've ever driven a bone-stock 240Z, you'd realize that it's a pretty damn good GT as well! It's when you start putting in stiffer springs, dampers, bushings, etc that it becomes more race-car like and less street friendly. All S30s have their place, but the 260Z does a great job of combining some key features of the 240Z and 280Z.

Tow with the rear wheels up and the steering wheel secured. Done.

I've found that once you dive in and do some research, it's really not that bad. Some parts are 240Z, some are 280Z and a few are 260Z only. FWIW, all 260Z's came with electronic ignition, a first in the US Z-line.

Read the head section of the "How to Rebuild" book, this is why you bought it... In a nutshell, you can take it to a machine shop to do guides, seals, seats, and check valves. The cam can be cleaned up and reused as long as you keep each valve with its matching lash pad and rocker. It's cheaper if you perform disassembly/assembly yourself.

I completely agree! The interior is nicer in the 260Z, it came stock with a rear ARB, and looks just like a 240Z if you're comparing an early 260Z. They don't get much respect so you can find them cheaper, but sssh, don't tell anyone.

I can attest to that next step! Unfortunately, I missed out on a set of HKS ITBs but I'm on the prowl!

Technically speaking, the modifications you've made are illegal. You will not be able to sell it to someone in a smog-enforced county without getting it to pass a smog test first (meaning you'd have to return it to stock). Selling it to a non smog-enforced county may be easier...

I've got the same tool, but haven't put it to use yet. It's very clever!

Old gas? I'd be more concerned about the condition of the brake fluid, oil and coolant before I'd worry about old gas. How long has the car sat?