LeonV

FWIW, Lexan = Polycarbonate Plexiglass = Acrylic (PMMA)

If I had a vacuum log, I'd definitely do it. You can put the PCV valve either into the log or remove the breather tube from the block and stick a PCV valve in there. I believe stonehenge69 did this on his stroker, using a Mistubishi PCV valve. Drawing out blowby gasses by vacuum is a good thing, and will not only improve performance but keep your oil cleaner as well. Here it is: http://www.zcar.com/70-83_tech_discussion_forum/pcv_system_triple_carbs...pics_686437.0.html

You are correct! I got a 21T and it was something like $25 shipped.

Exactly! The main really only controls WOT mixture, the rest of the dynamic range is controlled by the e-tube, idle and transition circuits. This is why the e-tube is so critical in proper operation of these carbs. It's properties control the mixture across the engine's dynamic range.

Check fuses first, especially after over-voltage situation. Use a continuity meter.

Webers have accelerator pumps too, the only difference between the two being that Weber uses a piston-in-cylinder pump while Mikuni uses a diaphragm type. Dyno tuning may help, but diligently using a wideband should get you 97% of the way there. The wideband essentially pays itself off!

Not sure on your reasoning behind wanting a glass-pack but not a resonator? The only difference between the two is that resonators use a perforated pipe with plain holes and glass-packs typically have louvers that lead into the holes (quiet it down more). Both reduce drone. The "muffler" that Walter posted is essentially a "resonator". A straight-through, perforated tube muffler will reduce drone, but not have a big effect on total volume reduction.

Good question, I'd ask him. He's a member of hybridz as well, goes by azcarbum. I do know that seat mounts changed starting with the late 260Z. Early 260Z and 240Z mounts were the same, for all intents and purposes.

Cool! Mine is 110 Red and #4406.

I'm glad you have discovered the inherent "awesome-ness" of the Weber DCOE! With regard to float setting, Keith makes and sells the tool for $40 or so through his online listings. I'm planning on getting some Hypojets and possibly e-tubes. He is local to me and I've offered up my Z to do some e-tube testing.

Fixed.

I can't agree more, I was honestly disgusted by the direction BMW took afterwards with Bangle's stuff. I can appreciate a nice E46 M3 but would never own one, as it's a huge money pit, relatively speaking. With that said, the E36 and prior generations are great. They really are driver's cars, and feel fantastic on the open road. BMW had the feel of every switch, button, latch and steering wheel down perfectly. It does seem like every single one develops electrical glitches, especially in the window switches, and the cooling systems always seemed to be lacking especially on the E36 and later cars. A friend of mine has an E36 M3 and another recently sold his E30 M3. What a car! Beautiful, nimble, and very advanced for it's time. I was recently shopping for a new-to-me car and had it down to two, the E36 M Coupe or Honda S2000. The M Coupe is gorgeous (in my eyes), torquey and handles great, but I ultimately went with the S2000 mainly because of reliability/maintenance concerns. I have enough Z-cars to mess around with, I don't need my DD breaking down or needing excessive/expensive maintenance! I feel that the S2000 is similar to the 240Z, lightweight, bulletproof drivetrain, long hood and seating position by the rear axle. Sorry for that tangent but I'm betting that quite a few Z owners have/had an S2000 as well!

You're in luck! I was just browsing a site yesterday when I came upon some: http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt/pd2118870/REPLACEMENT_SEAT_BRACKETS_

It may be the angle of the photo, although flares and wider wheels would help. Put up some more front shots, E!

Seems like he screwed up the timing adjustment. There is no difference between 89 and 91, unless you get pinging with 89! Otherwise, there is zero difference in power. I switched to 89 from 91 on my L24 a while ago, just as an experiment. I've heard no pinging and felt no loss in performance. The only difference is that 89 will be more prone to "dieseling" after a hard run on a hot day.

FWIW, it's the larger intake valves that may require clearancing the block, not the exhaust valves. You're lucky in that there was no interference with your block, although the valves seem to clearance themselves when there is slight interference. Larger intake valves will be more shrouded on an L24 than L28.

Wow, that is just beautiful! I want those seats!

That's awesome, gotta love triples! It's good to hear that your problem is finally alleviated, as I've thought it was a lean mixture issue from the moment your problems appeared. Never use PTFE tape on fuel fittings! It will break down and eventually cause a leak without you knowing. The 1000rpm idle is fine. Progression holes are what really determine idle speed (along with static timing), since correct transition circuit operation is dependent upon initial throttle position. If your throttle plates are oriented correctly, I wouldn't touch a thing. For syncronization, as you saw, the Weber SK tool is head and shoulders above the Unisyn. I'd never even try to use a Unisyn on a set of triples, let alone dual SUs! You should be able to fit te SK just fine with the air horns removed. Intake velocity does not drop to zero unless your engine isn't spinning. You should be able to floor the throttles in high gear and low rpm and have your car lug, but not shut off. This is discussed in Keith Franck's "White Paper" for tuning the Weber DCOE, in the Sidedraft Central "Files" section. You can eliminate all stumbles as well if you read and follow along! Oh, and video or it never happened.

Go to the last page of that thread, looks like there will be another batch soon.

A whirring noise that stops when you push in the clutch is probably an input or countershaft bearing. The 280Z 5-speed in my Z does the same thing, as does my S2000. You'll hear a lot of things in a car with little to no sound insulation.

Impressive! Looks like quality work, keep it up.

In stainless: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/78709-stainless-gas-tank-straps-for-240z/

Yep. I got a crank trigger wheel and sensor mount for $150, EDIS module, coil pack and VR sensor for $50, the Megajolt controller for $175, and assorted wiring/relays add up to about $25. So yes, crank triggered ignition for $400 is easily possible. With that said, it's possible to get the EDIS parts, trigger wheel, and sensor mount much cheaper if you do some fab work yourself. I bought everything ready to go since I didn't have the time to trawl junkyards and fab custom parts. Meaning you can have crank triggered ignition for $250-300. I was ready to go to a ZX distributor until I realized this.

Jeebus! You can have a fully-programmable crank-triggered ignition system for the amount and ditch the distributor altogether. That is what I'm in the process of doing on my 260Z.

Awesome show, and they somehow manage to draw an audience outside of automotive enthusiasts. Ten thumbs up!!!