LeonV

The proper firing order for ANY straight-six engine is 1-5-3-6-2-4. Otherwise, you will get strong harmonic imbalances. The proper orientation of plug wires on the distributor is counter-clockwise (direction of rotation).

No way. Maybe if you cut the price in half.

Did you pay for it already? Don't fix someone else's car, either buy it and fix it, or don't buy it. Replacing a fusible link is about as difficult as replacing a fuse. Your post is nebulous, why do you think the issue is a fusible link? Is there no power at all when the key is turned?

I'm an engineer as well, hence why I made the suggestion! Sometimes we get so caught up in trying to make everything as good as possible that we lose sight of the big picture. Just trying to keep you on the right track.

Nope. It will idle for an unexpectedly long amount of time on just the bowls. With the engine running, the pump will get the fuel moving very quickly.

FWIW, You can always make something better, but it doesn't mean it's a better solution. I'm not telling you not to do it but that plan sounds expensive. If you plan to remove 20 spindle pins, then maybe the economics of it come out better, but for the "casual" spindle-pin remover (i.e. a few sets in a lifetime) it may not be worth it.

The better and easier way is to manually fill the carb bowls with fuel and start the car.

Reset your carbs.

Carbs, or even better, standalone EFI is preferable in running a flat-top L28 with a small chamber head, i.e. high compression, especially since a hotter cam is typically used alone with it. Factory EFI was not designed for this. A header is not the first place to start. In fact, it's the last place. Do some research. High compression, flat-top L28s have been around for decades. The information is not difficult to find. You can also buy the How to Rebuild and How to Modify books as they relate specifically to L-series engine rebuilds.

260Z tachs were, for some reason, not very durable. I have a feeling your tach is slowly dying. Mine worked intermittently and then died so I replaced it with a 280Z tach and never looked back. Switch the faceplates out if you want to retain the 260Z plate and you're good to go.

How did you fix it, it would be nice to know.

Look up jtburf on HybridZ.org. He's been making the tool a long time and it works well. Just be sure to use a bunch of heat.

Got a set of 16 at an O'Reilly store for $35, the fit was perfect. That was 3-4 years ago, though.

Sounds like they're trying to keep the forum running. Unless you all want to be charged an annual fee in exchange for the use of this forum, ignore the ads and don't worry about it. I've never even noticed them until now, and I bet they mostly or completely go away if you donate to the site. If someone is stupid enough to buy it, then so be it. That's Capitalism in action.

Jeebus, I paid about $200 for the S2000 and close to $100 on the 260Z...

They must consider it pornography!

If you have a Pertronix unit, that means you have a points distributor which was converted to electronic triggering. The E12-80 module is only relevant if you're using a 280ZX distributor. If you have the Pertronix installed, you don't have an E12-80 module.

Wow, very nice! That's a once-in-a-lifetime find.

Yes, very cool cars! I'm imagining a P1800 wagon with twin Webers, Panasports and nice exhaust...

I'm a wagon, hatch and E30 M3 lover as well! My buddy had an '88, what a blast that car was.

I will be attending!

Cool photos, with some nice history behind them to boot!

Dave, that color is stunning! I love the look and the execution of your red Z, nice stance, clean interior and an L-gata with triples underhood!

...and then find out why it's not a good idea.

A couple of things here... Weber manuals can help understand carb operation but that's about it. Calculators can only get you in the ballpark. Join "Sidedraft Central" on Yahoo and read the White Paper. If it's hard to follow, then read up on Weber carbs to understand how they work first. Carb tuning is very logical and an iterative process, but is not a mystery. Sounds like you have a wideband O2 already so that's a good start. FYI, that syncrometer is great but can be had for way less than $50. Search around and you can find them for $32-35. e.g. http://www.texasaircooled.com/catalog/Weber-Carburetor-Syncrometer-SK-Type-1-30-kg-h.html