LeonV

Check/tighten ALL driveshaft and halfshaft nuts.

Inspect/Replace/Repair: - All fluids - Entire braking system - Cooling and oiling systems - Clutch hydraulics - Fuel filters - Throttle return springs - Valve adjustment - Carb sync - Ignition timing - Headlights, tail lights, brake lights, turn signals etc... Good luck and enjoy!

I got my fusible links from MSA.

Pascal's Law...

Hey, the Oregoners see more than we do, apparently!

I'll get back to you after I go to Keith's place to play with his new stuff, luckily he's local so we can try a few things without having to ship anything. I've been really busy with my EDIS install lately, but I plan to go to his place in the next few weeks hopefully.

FWIW, Keith Franck's Hypojets have 4 selectable air-bleeds. This makes it into an adjustable idle jet, 4-in-1.

I have pictures and an explanation of different pinions and housings in my HybridZ build thread. You might need a log-in to see the pics.

Wow... this thread is almost 10 years old. The firing order for any inline-6 is 153624.

Hence the term, "unlikely". The head gasket is most likely to pop in the thinnest spot which sees the most heat, i.e. in between cylinders. That doesn't mean it happens there every time, it could've blown at a water jacket interface but that is less likely to happen.

I speak of installation. Had to use long needle-nose pliers to even get to the clevis and cotter pin. Very little space to reach the fasteners on the interior side as well.

Also, get filters for those carbs.

I'd diagnose the problem and make sure it's the diff before doing anything else. In the meantime, you can swap the LSD unit out of the 4.11 into the 3.9 as long as they're both R200 diffs. If not, you may also encounter some issues when swapping (different mustache bar). Direzza Z1SS? Those would be nice tires. I'm sure they'll hook up fine, especially in 2nd and 3rd, no matter if your diff is a 4.11 or 3.7. Set the Illuminas to "1". If that doesn't help, I'd just go to coilovers which will have more travel (if properly sectioned) and they'd allow you to choose your spring rate while making it much easier to swap between stiffer and softer springs. I'm surprised that car doesn't have coilovers already, or does it?

Unlikely, compression was even.

Have fun with the clutch master, *maniacal laugh*.

What's the rear tire width and compound?

Very nice! I'd want to keep the 4.11 since it sounds like it's an LSD. What's wrong with the diff? I suppose you could always move the LSD unit to another diff if this one is toast, but the 4.11 would pair very nicely with a late ZX 5-speed.

Fired up the Z on EDIS for the first time last night. Hopefully, should be up and running on Megajolt by tomorrow.

Precisely!

Too restrictive for best performance. However, if you don't care, then go for it. My stock-cammed L24 has dual 2" pipes.

A full rebuild may require things like throttle bushings/bearings, power valves, and other hard-to-get parts. A typical cheap-o rebuild "kit" will probably have a few gaskets, o-rings and needle valve. However, I'm not too familiar with flat-top rebuilds so someone who's done it would be more informative. The 32/36 DGV is a "progressive" carb. The 32 is the main venturi diameter and 36 is the secondary venturi diameter, in mm. The DGV feeds the engine with the 32mm venturi until enough demand opens up the 36. They are also downdraft carbs, not desirable in an inline engine configuration. I'd prefer a good set of flat-tops to DGVs, hands down.

This has been discussed countless times. Those that wish to perpetuate the myth are ignorant of the facts. Discussions about the Earth being flat went on for quite a while, doesn't mean they were anywhere close to being right. Hopefully, this thread can properly inform the "you-need-backpressure" crowd.

Are the Webers DCOE (sidedraft) or DGV (downdraft)? If DCOE, then use the Webers. If DGV, then don't even think about it. Otherwise, I'd say flat-tops but good luck getting a complete rebuild kit. Sourcing a good set of round tops would be the other option.

Nope, not true. IF the 2.25" is limiting you, the 2.5" will be better in ALL aspects. If the 2.25" is not limiting you, and it probably wouldn't on a stock-ish L24, then a 2.5" will not hurt nor help. It'll just take away some ground clearance.

Nice! My advice is to read up as much as humanly possible, and then read some more. Download the FSM at xenons30.com and make sure everything is in order (fluids, brakes, cooling, fueling, ignition, etc.).