LeonV

Performance gains, if any, are minimal unless the bar is triangulated. Example:

Not a problem.

Looks fantastic, can't wait to see it finished! If the model is dimensionally sound, it would be a great tool to try out different things without actually having to mess with your Z. I'm sure engine-swappers would love it.

Nice find and great info!

Browsing for manifolds on ebay, I happened to come across an FET with a torsional return spring. The photos aren't great, but you can see that they simply used a collet on the throttle rod to fix one end and wrapped the other end around the rod end. Crude yes, but it may work well. JDM FET Intake Manifold Weber 40 45 Dcoe Datsun 240Z 260z 280z L24 L26 L28 6CYL | eBay

Nice link, thanks!

I know, I'm a terrible person! Are you sure you really need the lower gears? What makes you want something lower than a 4.11?

Awesome sightings yesterday on 101N as I was heading to SF on 101S in the North Bay. Saw that super clean orange 280Z again and less than 5 minutes later saw a super clean orange 240Z!

Let's do it. I'll use it for the first half of the year, and ship it to you for the second half. In my research, I've found that the high-quality castings are basically copies of the Nissan Comp manifold, which was destined for the high-performance versions of 240Zs (i.e. Nissan initially planned to sell 240Zs in the US with triple Mikunis and an extra 15hp). The info came from Tony D, among others. Manifolds like the Tomei and Kameari are essentially the same casting as the Nissan Comp mani, and I think TWM is similar. There are other quality manifolds out there that differ in casting, like FET, SK, Mikuni, etc. You can get a new TWM intake for $450 or so. I'm on the lookout if anyone's looking to unload. I'd say that's a TWM or a TWM copy.

I have a 4.375 R200 CLSD (longnose) out of an R31 GTS-R but can't see myself parting with it... sorry for the tease!

The Z's valvetrain makes noise. Reducing noise by decreasing valve lash is a sure way to burn up valves over time. A 40-year-old Z will never be as quiet of a car as most people are used to these days.

Thanks! Could you PM me his contact info?

I share a similar disdain to the Cannon manifold. In fact, I was just doing some research today on better manifolds that I can replace it with. The previous owner of the 45s I got recently had a very interesting modification done to the manifold. He sent it off to a machinist, who welded in new heim joint towers that were in much better alignment when compared to Cannon's effort. However, the owner still reported some throttle return issues, albeit more minor ones. I have a feeling it had to do with throttle arm alignment/creep, but I have yet to check as I need to build the engine first.

Beautiful Z! It's begging for some Panasports. Looks like that zero guy screwed quite a few people over...

I love those horns simply because they fully are radiused at the ends! I've been recently thinking about modifying my air horns to give the ends a full radius since I hadn't seen long, radiused horns for triples. Maybe I won't have to...

Awesome! Looking forward to some live action footage. Soon you'll be considering triples...

The front-right wheel looks like it still has excessive positive camber. I suspect either frame or strut tower misalignment. It would be wise to measure things up and make sure your chassis is straight before spending money elsewhere.

Interesting question. If they fit, I don't know if you'll be able to run any type of air cleaner, short of the stainless mesh strainers that are available. Another consideration is carb sync, it may be a tight squeeze. Hard to say without knowing your total length from head to carb inlet.

Very nice! I sent Mike 2 sets of 260Z tail light trims. I took some before photos but the lighting wasn't great. One set had been painted black and the other is original but worn and peeling in a few areas. Can't wait to see the results!

I'm selling my good 3.36 R180 for $50...

Physics! A coil spring is just a wound-up wire of metal. When a coil spring compresses, what actually happens is the metal wire twists in torsion, i.e. deforms in order to compress the spring. When you cut material out of the spring, you are shortening that metal wire. A shorter wire is harder to twist, thus the spring rate increases. It's akin to taking, say, a plastic ruler in your hands and twisting it. If you make that ruler shorter (put your hands closer together) it will be harder to twist. The analog to this in bending: take a long metal rod and a short one, holding all else constant. Which one will be easier to bend? Same idea.

Looks normal to me too...

I've been using Mobil1 10W-30 full synthetic with no issues for 2.5 years.

A combo of dead ball-joints, dead (or missing) upper strut bearing, and possible steering rack issue can cause this. Did you take a look underneath and do a quick check to see if something is binding?

Nope. It's geared just right (amazing gearbox BTW) and I didn't buy the car to drag race.