LeonV

I assume this is in response to my post? I don't know if I want to remove the flange because without it the diff is probably totally worthless. I don't know if I could give it away. I'll think about it...

I'm selling a complete early 240Z R180 diff for $50, FWIW...

I'm not well-versed in ZX differences but seems like the sumps changed at some point, later in the model run.

He measured wire resistance and found it in spec, as far as he said. Only other thing I'd do is run the car in the dark and see if there is any arcing wire-to-wire. Checking the coil per the FSM is a good idea...

Ok. Saying that "cams '70 through '83 are the same except the turbo" doesn't convey that very well...

Sounds like Jeff's F54 was a turbo block. They had slightly different sump and oil pick-up locations. Learned this from a buddy doing an F54 stroker...

Not true, each model had a unique cam profile (although some 240Z and 280Z profiles may be similar).

I'd be interested in seeing the impeller blades. Never seen a casting like that before.

Digging this up because of the very useful info in this thread. I was looking for .080" 7075 shim stock and the link in post #1 is perfect, just ordered some. Cost me just over $30 shipped for a 12"X12" sheet.

All 260Zs came with 3-wire, voltage-triggered tachs (with a 7k RPM redline).

I think this is the most logical idea at this point...

There's your problem. You bought the car, not knowing the last time the valves had been adjusted (among other things) and kept driving it. Old cars need more than just oil changes and tire rotation (as I'm sure you know). Check your valve clearances right now, and I bet they're very tight. A fresh valve job should get you back up and running.

Yup, they probably thought you were a spambot.

If compression is pretty good in the other cylinders I would just pull the head off and do a valve job. My bet is that the valves were out of adjustment (do you adjust them periodically?) and you burned the exhaust valve on #6. After getting the valves done, slap the head back on the car and drive. While you do so, you can build an L28. IMO, it's always nice to have a running Z. The longer it's down, the higher the probability of "build fatigue" setting in...

It sure looked purdy for the couple of seconds I saw it!

Saw a white 280ZX Coupe driving on Caulfield away from Lakeville as I was pulling into the Shell station on the corner yesterday evening.

On Saturday, I saw a sweet lime-green 240Z parked on a trailer in Danville. Then, I believe it was Sunday that I saw a clean, brown S30 heading the other way on the freeway. I don't even remember where or when it was, besides it probably being I280.

I agree Chas, and I'd add gearing to that as well. A 3.36 rear diff makes a 240Z feel rather anemic.

That's not really what the correction factor is for. This is an example of one of those variables that can give screwy results. Coolant (and oil) temps should be stable and consistent in order to have any kind of valuable data. The reason for correction factors is to compensate for temperature and pressure (hence air density) differences at the time of the test. Ideally, this normalizes all tests as if they were all done under the same conditions. In reality, cross-dyno comparisons are invalid unless the dyno adheres to certain strict calibration and procedural standards (ASTM, SAE, etc.). The graphs in general suck and don't make much sense (overlapping power and torque curves). If you want real results, go to a real shop.

FWIW: BRAAPs L6 EFI-induction advice and tips. - L-Series - HybridZ

First off, you can't really compare numbers across different dynos. Also, I don't see whether the numbers were corrected to STP. With that said, on the surface, the numbers look low. If they're not pressure or temperature corrected, that can at least partially explain why. It would've been helpful if there was an AFR trace-line. To really find out what's going on, go to an actual shop and have them dyno your car with an O2 sensor in the exhaust stream. There are many factors that affect dyno readings. The less controlled the "experiment" the less accurate it will be.

You'll see no gain, only a more sensitive throttle (increased flow area/throttle angle)...

What's the reasoning for this? To stay on topic, I already commented on HBZ but I'll say it again. I appreciate the great effort and engineering that you've put into this. When I decide to upgrade to rear disks, this sounds like a great option.

That chassis is a goner. If I were you, I'd immediately stop spending my time and money on this thing and find a donor shell to swap the parts into. My 2 cents...

Saw an awesome lime-green 240Z with black "240Z" door stripe and polished 5-slots in downtown San Mateo last Saturday. Very nice! Saw a brown 280ZX 2+2 on the Golden Gate Bridge on my way into work this morning.