LeonV

That should be fine, as long as the head hasn't been shaved.

Bart is right, the manual refers to RON which is the octane standard the US used back then (and the rest of the world still uses today). The US now uses RON+MON/2 (AKI) which is a lower number for the same octane level, i.e. 95RON is equivalent to 91AKI, as Bart already pointed out.

Wow, fantastic job! I love the thoroughness and attention to detail.

Check the reaction disk while you're in there, especially considering the brake booster was replaced.

Looks like an awesome trip! It's great to see the Z out and about in Europe-land.

Cool car! Your camshaft, however, is toast and needs to be replaced before doing anything else...

RLS30-24368 is a 2/74 build date.

Thanks! Date of manufacture is stamped on the plate riveted to the driver's side door sill.

Well that's a blast from the past! She's still sitting on that same suspension...

Better build a time machine first...

Welcome! Nice Zs, the Fairlady looks like a fun project.

Same thing happened when I was helping a buddy bleed his Z. He ended up getting a regular tee to replace the prop valve and installing a Wilwood adjustable in the engine bay.

The 280Z's redline is lower because of increased stroke. It has very little to do with R/S ratio.

They're allowing me to drive the car! Just living with the leaks until I get them welded up. They're not quite as loud as my old twice pipes (good thing). BTW, I love your flywheel holding tool.

With such a small, compact chamber you may not need a whole lot more timing. Mapping out the ignition system and leaning the fuel out a bit will make for substantial gains, not that it's not already a strong engine.

Good work G, looks like you're attacking that clutch job head-on!

I have a set of 225/50R16 tires on 16X7 Panasports on both of my Zs. I think one set is +6 offset and one is 0 offset, but I got both sets secondhand. After mocking up both sets on one car, I think the tires make a bigger difference than the slight offset (although that helps). The RE-11As on the green car are quite a bit "bulgier" than the Turanzas on the orange car. The facts... - Orange car is on +6 offset with very old 225/50R16 Bridgestone Turanza rubber. - Green car is on +0 offset with 225/50R16 Bridgestone RE-11A rubber. - Green car has +0 deg of rear camber, orange car has -1.5 deg. - Green car has trimmed rear arch lips and front valence - Orange car has aftermarket air dam - Zero rubbing on either setup - Switch sets between the two and fatter rears will rub on orange car

Lean out the mixture a bit to 13:1 and you'll make even more.

Sure thing. If you can't find it, I wouldn't hesitate to cut out a PE, PU, or Buna-N rubber disk and stick it in there. Just remember to glue it in place and adjust the master cylinder push-rod to spec.

For example: McMaster-Carr

Very nice job! Just needs to be dropped a bit, proper wheels, and you're good to go. Love the green over butterscotch.

Here you go: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/wheels-tires-brakes-s30/17972-reaction-disk-lost-booster.html As a precaution, I glued the disk onto the piston in the booster once I'd fished it out. As far as hardness, I'm sure you can substitute polyurethane or polyethylene and be fine. You can find some round plastic stock (and probably rubber for that matter) on mcmaster.com and cut it out if you can't find the disk in your booster.

I was convinced mine was lost too as no kind of shaking produced a rattle inside. Luckily enough, I was able to reach in with a finger, dislodge it from the inside of the housing, and finally shake it out. In other words, the disk was stuck to the inside of the booster housing and shaking didn't get it loose until I manually loosened.

I'm waiting for the day when I decide to convert to ITBs...

Removing the booster is not difficult. Be sure to adjust your master cylinder rod to correct depth once you have the disk back on. Adjustment procedure is in the FSM.