LeonV

Looks like you have either a 81-83 200SX or 74-80 620 Truck transmission, judging by the gear ratios. I'd guess 81-83 200SX based on the configuration of the transmission. Source: gearing2

I'm pretty sure John is talking about a 432 or 432R. Those are easily 6-figure cars these days.

My bet would be that they're preparing to run some cars at Monterey for the Historics next week.

Sounds like a hydraulic issue, possibly a leaky clutch master and/or slave cylinder. Also make sure your clutch pedal is adjusted correctly.

I agree with Mark, I'd go with option 1. Just put in the missing bolt and torque it down. These are not torque-to-yield bolts, I'm curious where you got that bit of info?

Make a trip up to SF for the Historic J show in Oakland on Saturday.

It wouldn't be the first time...

In case nobody's noticed yet, Z fan is 72 OJ/Plata aka "Lee" trolling the site yet again for reassurance that his V8 Z is the greatest car on Earth.

Nice 260Z!

There is a lot of misunderstanding and misinformation out there, especially regarding the 260Z. This is just another one of those busted myths, along with the L26 making less power than the L24...

Sounds about right. The NY title to my early 260Z said 2414lb, in essentially stock configuration. I'll be scaling it at the shop once it's back on the road and will have some accurate numbers as to where it's at now.

I don't need marketing propaganda to make my decisions, thanks. This topic has already been discussed, if not here then on HybridZ, MSDS and all. A properly maintained cooling system will not corrode. I've examined enough L-series blocks and heads (among others) to see the effects of neglecting your cooling system, as well as maintaining it. Believe me, I know very well that theoretical stuff is fun to talk about but it helps to have a glimpse of reality when doing so. Anyway, I don't want to derail this thread any further. There are some good points made in this thread (post #21 shares my sentiments, among others): http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/302124-you-using-evans-waterless-coolant.html

With a gasket in between... Also, "regular" antifreeze performs the same function, regarding corrosion. Waterless Coolant isn't anything magic, it's just a brand name.

Besides the bigger valves, it looks like it might be ported. Are you sure the installed cam is stock?

Same happened to me with the energy kit. I found proper sized bolts at my local hardware store.

I've heard that once or ten times before! If they're Eibachs, look at the part numbers on the springs. The ones ending in .001 go in front and .002 in back.

I'd check compression and then move to ignition. Sounds like you're having spark problems.

Did you check your bleed pipes to see if the solder job is holding up?

Compression ratio by itself doesn't boost power all that much. Proper spark timing is much more important.

What I'm saying is that you'll get a very similar, if not indiscernible from the original, sound if you just go to an exhaust shop and tell them to do two 2" pipes with 2 glasspacks in each pipe.

My 260Z sounded similar with a header and 2" twice pipes. Sounds quality isn't great but you get the gist...

Water is almost 2X more effective at heat transfer than antifreeze (ethylene glycol). The main point of using antifreeze is for dropping the freezing point, increasing boiling point, as well as lubricating the water pump and protecting the insides of the engine from corrosion. "Water Wetter" does the same thing.

Did you make sure to torque any fasteners at pivot points with the car loaded and on the ground?

I was going to say the same. I'd switch them...

Looks like it's in great shape! BTW, that's a '73 model year judging by the equipment.