LeonV

I replaced a cam in-situ. It required hood removal, loosening the engine mounts, and jacking up the engine. Be careful with exhaust and various other clearances when jacking up the motor. Depending on your exhaust manifold, you may have to loosen the steering rod that goes from the rack to the coupler. It was a relatively simple and quick job. Dialing in the lash pad sizes for a custom cam is way more time-consuming than the actual cam replacement.

I'd say your inference is correct! Good luck!

Lapping that valve may fix your issue.

http://performanceshock.com/ I've used them to rebuild some old 240Z Bilsteins and our shop uses them all the time.

Welcome! I think the annual ZONC gathering is coming up, they usually do it in July over in Brisbane. I usually try to attend, whether the Z is running or not.

The more cars I work on, the more I realize that what I have is just fine.

Sounds like lean-popping to me, due to some/all cylinders partially misfiring during coast-down. Proper idle jets will get rid of that.

Nice! Looks like a similar but much cheaper alternative to the Motec keypad/PDM we set up in a Civic Type R touring car.

I've used SF Differentials in South San Francisco. I found out about them through a friend and used them to inspect an R180 LSD in the past.

Anyway, sorry to derail your thread, Mike. Your setup looks fantastic!

SUs are a completely different animal in the way they are arranged and in their function, and not comparable to triples. I don't want to have a balance tube, period! So yes, my engine operates all the time without a balance tube. Firing pulses overlap each other during the inline-6 engine cycle and cause all sorts of disturbances in flow through the carb venturi. If you must have a balance tube, a smaller diameter one is preferable to at least somewhat restrict the effect. Cannon's balance tube is relatively large. FWIW...

Did you sync the carbs with the balance tube disconnected? You can't disconnect the Cannon balance tube...

Another way of saying the engine doesn't like coming back down to idle, or is very slow to do so.

Like I said, it's a contributor but certainly not the only factor...

My biggest problem with the Cannon manifold besides the misaligned holes for the heims was that it has a big balance tube built into it. I think that's one of the major contributors to lazy idle syndrome seen on many Zs. I've since installed a TWM intake on mine but have yet to test out that hypothesis.

The owner is a member of this forum, he goes by spitz17.

Good catch!

I think he meant that Cliff's came out better vs. his old L24 block...

Looks like you may have a 280ZX fan on there. It has a different offset for the mounting face than the S30 fans in order to clear the extra pulley rows (WP/ALT, PS, AC). An S30 fan may just solve your problem. It can be 240Z-280Z, they're all the same in terms of offset. Yes, your old radiator is OEM. The Koyo looks to have a larger core.

In case it was lost in translation, the emergency start button on 260Zs bypasses the interlock system. It is not a remote starter switch!

I'd go a size down to .160", you'll get more valve lift.

What's with all the spite towards Keith Franck?

Yes, but only if you can't pass smog. Does your car pass smog? If so, then I fail to see how this affects you. Why would you have to pay an extra $200 to register your car? This is essentially an exemption for those whose car has trouble passing smog. Is this a bad thing?

I don't see what the big deal is?