motorman7

Congrats on the new purchase and welcome to the club. There is a good group of Z owners in SoCal so planty of people to get advice or help from (if needed). Thanks for posting the pics. Rich

Yes, with the Tokico springs (I am assuming 5020's) no spring compressor required. Had them on my 71 at one time. Rich

Here is the color of my block with the CDM paint for reference.

Also, the position of the rod that goes from the oil pump to the cam gear to the distributor is very important. The key for the distributor must be as shown in the picture at engine TDC. This will make timing easy. Make sure it is not 180 out. Rich

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35670&highlight=cam+timing Check this thread. Should help. Rich

Sweet pics! Very nice job. You really have a gorgeous car. Rich

Welcome to the board! As always, post some pics. Would love to see your Z. Rich

Seems to be a lot of differences between the two cars: Exhaust sytem, Sac car is lowered, window tinting, rubber on bumper, different tires, engine bay color, decals, Bre on Sac spolier, Datsun on SD spoiler,..etc. I am sure there is more i am missing

It is a different car. Here is the San Diego car. Also, I remember the engine bay was white on the SD car. Both cars are beautiful on the outside...both really need and engine bay resto. Rich

Looks nice! Great pics. Thanks for posting

Well, I got my plating kit early. Actually, got the Caswell hardware and manual on e-bay for $43 total (includes shipping). Such a deal, I couldn't pass it up. It's used, but everything seems to be in working order. I ordered the chemicals on-line and should have everything by early next week. The cost of the chemicals is actually fairly cheap. The shipping costs are more than the actual materials cost. The most expesnsive item was the yellow chromate from Caswell. Not sure if I can get this cheaper somewhere else, but will check into it. I cleaned up the garage a bit and set aside an area for the plating buckets. I also made a rotating 'bucket' for plating quantities of nuts and bolts. I hope to try my hand at plating as soon as the chemicals come in. Perhaps by the end of next week. I will post pics of the progress. Also, here are a couple sites that are pretty helpful with plating info. http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/zinc.htm http://www.nulltime.com/zincplating/index.html Rich

on the 3/70 Z that I now have, My father was the original owner for 39 years. I have now had it (registered to me) for 8 months. Not sure if that counts for anything. Rich

Welcome to the board! Where in SoCal do you live? That's a large area. In looking for a Z, take your time. There's a lot of good ones out there and there are quite a few overpriced rust buckets. Best Regards, Rich

Hi Greg and Dave, Actually, the install was pretty easy once I flipped it around. Everything lines up pretty well when you flip it. All you have to do is add the hole symmetric about the center plane. Mine was a bit snug (Same as Arne mentioned), but it was a good snug. Better snug than loose. If any one ever did do another run of the mounts, it wouldn't hurt to have that hole pre-drilled. As it was, the steel was fairly soft (or my bits real sharp) and the hole was easy to drill. Best Regards, Rich

I am guessing it's at the Ecology Part recycling center on Energy way in Chula Vista. They had 4 or 5 decent 280Z there a couple weeks ago. Picked up my curved mustache there. Rich

Very impressive. The chrome heat shield is a nice touch!

I would really like to get #2614 there. Looking for a trailer as Nashville is pretty far from San Diego. Rich

Here's pics of the install. Note the mount is installed differently than conventional due to my addition of the curved mustache on the 71Z. Rich

I'll try and post some pics in the next day or two. Was really rushing last night to finish up so I could take it work this AM. Also need to clean up some of the oil under there. Looks like I have small transmission leak:ermm:

In addition to installing the R-T Mount on my 71Z yesterday, I also installed the curved mustache bar and curved rear link cross member to move the differential back about 1.5inches. The install took a while, about 5 hours, due to some minor complications. I think the install of the mount would have been pretty easy if I had not moved the differential aft to align it with the rear axles (a 70 and 71Z issue). With the differential shifted back, the GM mount was too far aft of the RT mount. The fix was to flip the RT bracket around and add a hole, symmetric to the center of the bracket, on the other side. By doing this, the bracket and the mount were able to align. The RT mount was a tight fit, but not bad, into the drive shaft tunnel area. I used a hand jack to lift up the assembly and insert the 4 bolts. I also removed the fuel line clamp. I still need to do a little adjusting and testing. I need to tilt the nose of the differential up to better align with the drive shaft axis. Also, need to see if that wicked vibration that I used to get at 90 mph is gone. Too much traffic on the freeway this AM to test. Thanks again Dave for the mount! Rich

Sounds like two issues to me. First off; Slowing down when you push the throttle sounds like you are too far advanced. I am guesing you would hear a bit of pinging at mild load, heavy load and you slow. For the rough idle, check the float bowl level. I adjusted mine the other day and it made a world of difference at idle, and at speed. Just my thoughts, Rich

Nevermind, plenty of re-furbs available at auto parts dealers

Any idea on where to get a new one, or at least a re-furbed booster. I have the same issue here.

Before adjusting my SU float bowl levels yesterday, I disconnected the spark plug wire attached to the coil. While turning the engine over to operate the mech fuel pump I hear a sparking noise coming from the coil. My thoughts at the time were, "gee, that's interesting, I probably don't want to get too close to that". After the bowl's were adjusted, I got in and took the car for a spin. I immediately noticed no tach movement (very little anyway:disappoin). I am guessing my spark was going into the green the wire that leads to the tach. Bummer, that means something in there is toast. So will have to pull this out and get it fixed eventually. From readin other threads, looks like I can pull it out the front of the dash by undoing two screws. Can get it fixed for $40 - $60. Wrote this just as a warning for those disconnecting plug wire from coil. Not the best place to make that disconnect. Rich

No problem for Frankie here in CA. 1975 and older vehicles, you can do anything you want. They don't even ask for smog cert for registration when they are that old. I know, I registered a '70 and '71 this year. He's in a 1972...clear sailing. Rich