Frankensteinz2

Hey guys, I have been readin on line and talkin to msa. I recently restored my car and i am ready to drive it. However no brakes. I filled the lines and bleed the master cylinder (which is pretty new), and at the wheels, farthest first. I can not seem to get any brake. I have to pump the brakes several times to get any kind of firmness, not even close to the old double pump action i use to deal with. Would I be right in assuming a leak some where? I see no fluid spurting out and the reservoirs stay up, but this is all that makes sense. I was thinkin a new master vac but i don't think i am having that problem. Input please! Thanks Frankie

Ok thanks again Escanlon. Frankie

Hey guys, I just need some direction. I can turn my blinkers on, and they work fine, with no headlights. However with headlights on, my tach shows a weak, but solid, passenger side blinker on the tach, no affect on the outside of the car, just on the tach. Is this a device put in for a bulb out, or is this likely the combo switch? Thanks Frankie

You da man Thanks Frankie

Hey Guys I have an electrical switch under the drivers side dash that the wiring popped out of, I would search it but i don't know what the hell it is. It is rectangular and has the letters HBS on it. 3 wires going to it, GR, GB, and G. Can anybody tell me how this is wired? See attached pic Thanks Frankie

Yeah i have followed that pretty step by step, I think most of my problems are just the age of the carbs. Probably my throttle shafts are leakin and my linkages are worn. Im gonna keep workin on them and see if i can get them more finally tuned. Thanks everyone for the input Frankie

whats up from indiana as well, hope your not a purdue fan Frankie

Alright after a bit of playin/ trial and error, i have my idle at about 900 with good throttle response, I didn't really notice alot of sensitivity from the mixture nuts, I'd turn both of them one way a turn or 2 and then the other and did hear much of a change If i changed them vastly i would notice a difference in rpm, so i just went by ear and tried to get close I set my timing to 17 degrees btdc at around 900 rpm, i think thats set, I still need to reset the valve lashs hot though Hopefully once i reinstall my clutch fork WITH the holder spring, i'll get to drive her FINALLY after 4 hard months of full time restoration After that all i have to do is fix the ELECTRIC, YUCK! Wish me luck Frankie

Long shot since both carbs are doing it but if the air inlet tubes are plugged, the floats will not fill up another 2 cents Frankie

thats the only way i know if you adjusted it up as high as it will go you should be poolin fuel in the carb correct adjustment for the float from what i have read is 14 mm so somethin else is causin your problem

im no genius, as i ask more questions then alot of people on here but i was running into the same thing, i don't if you have tried this but raise your float, the part of the z therapy video where he talks about he nozzles he refers to fluid dynamics: the fuel in the nozzle will only go as high as the fuel in the float chamber my 2 cents Frankie

yep they are fallin freely with a clunk at the bottom I bought new needles and nozzles from z therapy and installed them looks to be operating correctly with out binding

too late i took them off but i did discover that my bendable bars was holdin my butterfly open a little bit Now i can idle but balancin is tricky The front carb races the engine rpm up when i put the sychro over it even with the mixure nut all the way up and the rear carb sputters the engine with the sychro on it With adjusting the balance screw and the throttle screw i can get the ball in the same place on both carbs however i get the opposite effect on the engine rpm

I assume number 3 is the throttle adjustment screw rear carb, and i think number 4 is wrong, i think that screw is for the vacuum pot, correct? the throttle adjustment screw is behind that, (not visable in the picture) correct me if im wrong I am taking the carbs off now and readjusting the throttle adjustment screws as you said in your post

Im not sure what ignition it is, I assume points but I took a picture of it to be sure. Vaccum hoses are all connected, and i have set timing at 6 degrees BTDC @ about a 1000 or so

Okay I'll see how it goes. Thanks for tryin that before me, I was a little worried to ruin it Frankie

Im from Fort Wayne, Indiana and Im workin on a 72 240z w su's 3 screw carbs

awesome, i still have the old housing laying around, but if all you had to do was cut off a little, maybe ill just keep the new housing on question, did you have any fraying of the speedo cable when you cut it?

Okay, I have to solve this car problem before i can time because i can't get them to idle down to 600 or 700 Now the more I read I think i might need to take the carbs off to check to see if one of the butterflies is stuck open Thanks for the order Doradox, I will do the tuning after i set the timing

Oh trust me i have, and from what i have read im gonna go with lowering the floats as i think im getting to much gas. Ill give it a shot Frankie