saridout

i'm holding off on naming mine until the new paint is done, cause i'm changing the color from white to BRG, and i'm sure the character of the car will change as well. until then, it's just Baby

ok, will do. i'll let yall know what happens, thanks.

wow, thanks E. everything i never knew about body filler i'm pretty sure the body is going to need quite a bit of work. i'm going to, at the very least, visit his shop again. and i'm going to take my dad, who admittedly knows a lot more about body work than i do.

maybe he was just poo-pooing the brand. i'm definitely going to look at his work before spend anything. i've been trying to find some reviews of him, but that's a problem with these country shops... they have no use for having an internet presence. maybe i'll call around to local car clubs and see if anyone can provide a review.

he mentioned the product by brand name... i can't remember exactly what it was. i'm pretty sure it had "glass" in the name, like X-Glass or something like that.

i keep my 280 out in the country in my dad's garage, and most everything is cheaper out here, but this seems a little cheaper than normal. i went to a body shop called TCB Riveria in Quinlan, TX. the guy gave my car a cursory look and told me $2500 for both the body work and the paint, or $2000 if i do the disassembly myself. the engine bay has already been done. he says that he doesn't use bondo, he uses some fiber glass product. he said the paint job would involve painting all the door jambs and both sides of the hood, hatch and doors. he showed me a few albums of cars he's done, trophies he's won. he seemed pretty dependable. i'll be sure to look at his work up close before i make a decision, but does this sound too good to be true to yall?

they've got a lot of similarities and a lot of differences. use my diagram with a grain of salt. the wiring diagram for the 75 looks pretty good though. the biggest reason i redid the 76 diagram is because it wasn't very legible and there was a section missing. thanks!

have you bought the haynes manual? it's just about the crummiest haynes manual i've ever seen, but it does have the wiring diagrams in the back. also, there are a lot of similarities between the 76 wiring and the following years. though they're not identical, my color diagram could probably help you in some cases. i'll keep your printer in mind, thanks

thankyou! i'm looking around for my next project. i'm a little tired of doing wiring diagrams, but any other requests? i was thinking about a color version of the EFI system. haha, that must be it XD

here's an update: i managed to limp over to a mechanic, and after listening to the car run, he said that i was misfiring on the first cylinder. he sprayed brake cleaner or something on the base of each injector, and when he sprayed the first and second ones, the loping suddenly smoothed out. he said i probably had a vacuum leak around one of the injectors. i went ahead and replaced those two injectors and their seals. i just started the car up, and it ran smoothly for about 3 minutes, and then started loping again. it seems even worse than it was before. does this ring any bells?

i threw out the packages a while back, but here's some info on courtesy nissan's site: http://www.courtesyparts.com/kb_search_result.php?chassis_id=59&keywords=fusible+link&Submit_Button=Go&cat=1 you could call them, they're fairly helpful.

that's interesting. my reference for the fusible link colors was my own car. i recently replaced them too, and when i went to the nissan dealership and asked for a set for a 1976, i was given a black, green and two reds.

this was made with adobe illustrator, the same program used to draw my avatar.

i thought about selling it... i may print and laminate some big ones to sell on ebay eventually. thanks

thank you i hope it helps everyone as much as drawing it has helped me.

well, after weeks of working on it, i'm finally done. and you can reap the benefits of all my work! below i've made available my new, full-color version of the 1976 280z wiring diagram. it is vector-based, so it can be blown up as big as you'd like without losing legibility. the text is copyable and searchable. i will warn you, i'm 110% sure that there are errors. you get a gold star if you point them out to me. a wire or object in hot pink denotes that i'm not sure of the true color of the item. i'll post updated versions on this thread as needed, so look at the most recent reply for the newest download. enjoy! download here: http://sridout.com/datsun/76circuit_COLOR v.1 edit: i thought i'd add an illustration that i just finished for Tim280z of his car. take a look at the thumb below...

this is a newly rebuilt engine with a rebuilt head bought off of ebay from datsun parts LLC (yeah, i know, big mistake). first the symptoms: when i start her up, she roars to life and seems to run smoothly for a minute or two. then suddenly the engine will start loping heavily and the whole thing will jerk rhythmically to the right. if revved, it smooths out a bit, but often backfires. my vacuum gauge needle jerks into "Late Valve Timing" every time the engine lopes. on the first few startups, the loping will worsen until the engine dies. once the car has been started several times, it will lope badly but stay running. here's a video (you'll need audio obviously): http://www.flickr.com/photos/26373558@N08/4048852266/ i've had bad luck getting a compression tester that works, but i'm pretty sure my compression is fine. i'll be testing it again this weekend. i have good spark, and all my injectors seem to be functioning correctly. there's no change when removing any of them. the car was doing something similar to this before the rebuild, but not this bad, and no backfires. i definitely did not have this kind of vac gauge reading before. now, everything that i messed with: other than the rebore and crank work, i pretty much did everything on the engine myself. - i pulled almost everything out of the engine bay, except the brake servo and fuel lines. - took the intake manifold completely apart and put it back together again. - replaced most of the hoses, including all the bits on the intake. - replaced the starter & solenoid. - replaced all the fuel injector clips (i may have gotten the wires backwards on one) - replaced the 4 fusible links. - didn't really mess with the ignition coil and resistor except to replace one of the spade connectors. - installed head, original sprocket and original timing chain, am 99.999% positive i got the bright links right. - replaced all major gaskets - installed timing cover, oil pump and water pump. -reattached manifolds, and dropped the engine back into the car. - timed the engine. - replaced the water temperature switch with a new one from a 260z. - replaced a few misc spade and bullet connectors. things i'm worried about: my engine rebuild book says that if the mark on the sprocket and faceplate are out of alignment, then the sprocket should be advanced to the #2 hole. mine wasn't nearly as off as the illustration (see attachment for mine), but i advanced it to #2 to see if it helped. it was the same, so i put it back on #1. we installed the oil pump the way the book instructed... line up the marks on the oil pump and shaft, et cetera. the end of the shaft lined up just as indicated in the book. then, for something unrelated, we had to turn the engine a few times. i put it back at TDC, and tried to put the distributor on, and the oil pump shaft was out of alignment. i retimed the oil pump, and then it seemed ok. i could be imagining that the above items are cause for concern, but i thought i'd mention them in case they stood out. please help!

bueller? i think i'll repost this under the new problem to get some more responses. thanks everyone!

may be of no consequence, but when we rev the engine, it often backfires.

argh, i can't seem to get a gauge that works worth a dang. the second one i've tried seems to be broken, but it gets up to 150. hopefully third gauge is the charm. here's a video of the car running from yesterday. it's hard to hear the lope on the audio, it gets worse around the time i start talking. http://www.flickr.com/photos/26373558@N08/4048852266/

so i rented a compression gauge from Autozone, and it's consistently telling me that my compression is about 105 on all 6 cylinders. i think there's something wrong with the gauge. what do you think?

sorry i haven't responded yet. i can only get out to my car once a week. fastwoman: all the spark plug wires are correct. double checked em the vacuum gauge stays steadily in Late Valve Timing. i did as you said and pulled the injector plugs, and i'm pretty sure they're all ok. one seemed a little suspect to me, but i'm probably imagining things. i'll check it again this weekend. i'll also need to go buy a compression tester cause dad can't find his. dad is fairly certain that the engine runs smoothly for the first minute or so, and THEN starts loping. i'll agree it certainly did that the last time we started it, but i can't say if it's done that every time we've started it. it may have only started running smoothly then loping since we timed it. diseazd: we timed the engine... it runs smoothest at about 13 before TDC, which isn't saying much. man, it kills me when you comment on my posts, cause then i spend an hour looking at your photos

i pulled the 6-prong connector off the bottom of the seat belt warning relay and shorted the yellow and yellow/black wires together, bypassing the relay, and the car starts! thank you! so does this mean that it's the relay that's the problem, or one of the seat belt switches? i took the black platform that the relay is bolted onto apart and repainted it, so i'd assume it's the relay and i messed it up somehow. or is it the interlock unit... argh, i'm worse with electrical stuff than i am at math :/

i'll preface this with the fact that i rebuild my engine and refreshed the engine bay which involved removing everything from it. i didn't touch anything under the dash. it's definitely not the starter; the engine turns over when the starter solenoid is connected directly to the battery. when the key is turned, the dash and body lights come on, but when the key is fully engaged, the seat belt alarm comes on and there's a clunking sound coming from the area above the fuse box. i've got continuity between the yellow wire on the starter solenoid and the black/yellow wire going to the ignition switch, but when i've got 12V going to the switch, it never gets to the yellow wire at the starter solenoid. is there anything else i'm missing that i should check? edit: forgot to say that my battery keeps going dead, and it was fine before the rebuild.

btw, if yours is correct, could you email it to me? i'd really appreciate it... saridout@gmail.com