chiefmd

Thanks for the input. Yes I changed out the fuel filter prior to installing the gauge which I mounted just after the fuel filter. I checked it again today. Started right up. I let it run then shut it off and the fuel pressure bleed down to zero in 4 hours. So the fuel pressure should never bleed down? Do all fuel pumps have a check valve in them? Could I put an inline check valve or just replace the pump? Can you recommend a pump and where to purchase. Also, would a bad fuel pump also lead to low pressure?

I've been steadly working on a 77 280z that I purchased over the winter. Just replaced the injectors and she is running quite well. I went ahead and installed a inline fuel pressure gauge and am only getting 26 psi. When I shut it off she holds pressure for a few hours but eventually drops off to zero, also, no problem starting up after its sits with zero pressure. I installed a Fram G3 filter before the pump and it is clean. I was going to clean the filter in the fuel pump but it's not OEM. It looks like the one that Black Dragon sells. Any suggestions as to what else could cause low FP. Thanks

I can't remember if I read about this or saw it on this site but I seem to remember that it will affect the performance of the car. Can anyone enlighten me on the downside, if any, on operating on low fuel reserve. I am specifically talking about an FI vehicle.

Great. I really appreciate your input. Now I can get her back together and running.

I'm in the process of installing some injectors I purchased on-line. The injectors came off of a 280z and were relatively new. They do not have the fuel line attached as do some I've seen, it was installed by the PO. I have read the FSM and it states that you do not need a clamp on the hose end where the injector is installed just on the end that attaches to the fuel rail. When I received the injectors and fuel rail there were no clamps on the fuel injector ends. I would think that I need a clamp. Your help would be greatly appreciated. PS The injectors have a barbed end.

Excellent Zman. You answered my question.

This is my first Z so I am still learning. I'm about ready to put my car on the road, 1977 280Z. I have taken it out for test runs and all seems well. At idle it it seems to be loading up and running a little ruff so I thought it would be wise to check the valve lash. But when I get the #1 exhaust lope in the vertical position the rotor in the dizzy is pointing at #4? If I set the rotor to point at #1 on the cap and the timing mark is set on zero (tdc) the #1 exhaust lope is about 90 degrees off of vertical. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I decided to just grease the U-joints and that took the play out. I'll have to watch it to see if the play returns if so then I'll replace them. Just one other question. Once I had the axle shafts out I tried to check for play in the rear wheel bearings by holding the hub and trying to move in and out. I could not see any movement but I could hear some. I don't know if that is normal because there is no weight on the hub. My question is should I be able to see or hear ANY movement at all in the hub. Thanks

Well got under her today to see if I could start the elimination process. I grabbed the driver side axle shaft and was able to reproduce the clunking noise, looks like the u- joint. Is this just a simple u-joint replacement or do I need to replace the axle shaft it's self?

I been working on the front suspension/steering this past winter and have finally completed it. Everything turned out great and makes a world of a difference when driving. But, let me get to my current issue. I backed the car out of the garage today and there was a noticeable clunking coming from the drivers side rear. It only does when I back up not moving forward. Any idea as what it might be, mustache bar bushing? Thanks

What make of pressurized fuel canister do you recommend, or does it matter.

I'm in the process of replacing numerous parts to remedy "running rich" in a 78 280Z. The last item is the csv but I want to be certain that it is or is not functioning. Is there any way to bench check it off the car, similar to the 9 volt test for the injector. I know you can check it while its installed on the car but I'm working on the motor and don't want to put everything back just to check the csv. Thanks

Anyone!

Its located just left of the coil. It has a six sided plastic cover with two green and two red wires in and out

Looking for a terminal block. I checked everywhere and nobody seems to carry one. Anyone have an idea of where to buy one. Thanks

Just south of Dover on the way to Delaware shore, about 45 minutes from Delaware Memorial Bridge. I lived in Jersey for 30 years but retired to Delaware, Taxes!! My son currently lives in Mt Laurel and we visit him at least once a month. Always been a Z fan since I was stationed in Japan in the early 70's. But didn't have $3500 at the time to buy one. Over the years I have had always had a weekend car, Porsche's, S2000, and BMW Z4 Coupe but always longed for a Z. Finally picked one up this past winter, 78 280Z. And have spent a lot of time on the forums trying to absorb as much information as possible. I was just checking to see if there was anyone locally that wanted meet and pass on some wisdom. Thanks

Looking for anyone in Delaware that has a older Z that might want to get together and talk Z's.

I'm attempting to attached photos. Lets hope they take. If not I have posted pictures in My Album under 1978 280Z Engine. Again thank you for all your help.

That poses a dilemma. I assume that everything associated outside of the engine is 78 280Z ie AFM, FI, etc. Timing should be setup for a 81-83ZX? The distributor is not from a ZX. What else should I be concerned with as far as setting up the engine to run correctly. Or am I being overly concerned. Thanks

Blake - The head number is P79 and block is N42. Thanks again for all the input.

Thanks for the info. The number on the block is L28 353159

I just recently purchased a 1978 280Z that is fairly good order. But as usual for older cars it needs to have some work done. It is running rich so I have downloaded the FSM and started performing some checks and I need Thermotime sw and Water Temp sensor. But after looking at the manuals I'm not sure if it is a 1978 engine. The manufactures plate reads that it build 2/78 so I know the car/chassis is a 1978. But I'm not certain if it is the a 1978 engine. Is there anyway I can tell if in fact it is a 78 or 77 or even a 76 engine?

Thanks Blake I'll check NAPA tomorrow

Looking to replace the AAR hoses but can't seem to find them anywhere. What can I use in place of the factory formed hoses? Thanks