lm71z

It’s a 12/70 car , technically 1971 model year

Does anyone have a good condition OE rear bumper center piece from a 70-72 240z? Doesn’t have to have perfect chrome. Mainly looking for one without dings and rust. Or I’m open to a complete original rear bumper for a 70-72 240z. also trying to find a good condition rear bumper overrider bar.

Need a rear bumper for a 1970 Datsun 240z, and also rear tail light surround panels. May be interested in other parts, always looking to collect some extra backup parts for my series 1. Located in Los Angeles, California area.

It’s only under load, I didn’t rev super high but I didn’t notice anything odd over 4k in neutral

Definitely a new problem. I meant the car was overrall down on power with the old coil + resistor, but had no lunging/hesitation and went over 4k without a problem. The reason I upgraded to the Pertronix coil is because I read its recommended to run the Pertronix flamethrower if you’re using the Pertronix 1761 ignitor system for the coil, but now this has created a new problem. So, with this new coil, there’s a little more power and responsiveness, but I now hit a wall at 4k where the car lunges and hesitates, basically loses power past that rev point.

It ran fine and didn’t have that symptom over 4000 RPM, but was lacking in power

Hi everyone, hoping someone can help me diagnose this issue. My 1971 240z has the Pertronix 1761 ignitor installed - recently I realized I’ve still been running the stock spec coil (with resistor) and should be using the recommended Pertronix coil, so I installed that - it is the 3ohm version (part # 40511). I removed the ballast resistor since it’s the 3 ohm coil - I connected the wires from the resistor together with a jumper (the green/white wire and the black/white wire were connected to the resistor, and they’re now connected together with the Pertronix coil installed). The other wires are all connected correctly to the positive and negative side of the coil. The car idles a little higher with the new coil, but overall idles smoother and runs better, except when it hits about 4k rpm. Once you hit 4k rpm, the car starts hesitating/lunging back and forth and loses a lot of power. I’ve tried advancing the timing by a few degrees but it didn’t help. The car’s idling a little too high (around 1,100 rpm), and advancing the timing moved the idle up. I was running the BPR6ES plugs (I believe 0.035 gap) . I just tried a set of BPR6ES-11 (has a 0.044 gap) thinking that may help - it runs slightly better with the higher gap but still runs into the same issue at 4k rpm. I’m wondering if anyone knows what would be the most likely culprit of this issue. Is it most likely a combination of timing adjustment and idle adjustment, or something else?

Hey everyone, so our 71 240Z is in need of a good paint job, but I want to take my time and find the right place who will take the time to do it right. Basically the whole car, including the roof, is filled with small dings, and I worry about most body shops just spreading bondo all over the place instead of taking the time to do the metal work necessary to actually remove them. Can anyone recommend a shop, or an individual person, in the greater Los Angeles area that does thorough, honest work without charging crazy prices? I would be willing to spend 6-10k if that’s what it takes to get it done right. I’m open to even having one person do the body work and prep work, and then having it painted elsewhere if that ends up getting the best result.

View Advert 1971 Datsun 240Z, 72k Original Miles Made in February, 1971. The car was purchased from the original owner - not driven from 2000 until 2009. I've 2000 miles put on it since then. The body has lots of small dings (not on a major body lines) that don't show up in pictures. New parts are: Radiator Fan clutch & Fan Blade Temp sender & thermostat Water pump & bolts SU Carbs from Paltech in Ohio Coil & resistor Fuel pump All wheel bearings & seals All brakes, calipers, wheel cylinders & drums Diff gear oil & trans oil New Factory Nissan Master brake cylinder (tokico) Clutch cylinder & slave cylinder Battery Muffler -Everything works, even the clock -Gas tank was taken out and redone -Runs, drives, rides and shifts perfectly -Underside never under coated, NO RUST except in dog legs (a few dime size spots) -72K original miles -Needs a professional windows out paint job & seat covers bring back to -dash has 2 small cracks Advertiser lm71z Date 10/23/2019 Price $24,000.00 Category Cars for Sale Year 1971 Model 240Z Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)

Okay, we actually have a factory heat shield under these, but it's the SU Carb heat shield and it looks like it doesnt block all of the heat from the header

Nope, in the process of trying to find one, but it seems like I’ll have to have one made.

Okay, I also forgot to mention it has unwrapped headers. Was thinking the heat from those could possibly be causing the gas on the float bowls to evaporate and expand. I’m going to test this by only driving it for a mile or less, then turning it off for 5 min and see if I have the same restart issue when it’s not warmed up. For float level, should I consider lowering that? Seems to me that the only 2 causes could be the fuel evaporating from heat and/or improper float levels? Is there anything else I’m missing?

Question for those with experience with these carbs. The car is a 1971 Datsun 240Z with dual Weber 32/36 carbs. It starts and runs perfectly from a cold start. Plenty of power, no issues while driving. However, if it sits for 5-10 minutes, it will take several cranks to fire back up and will often smell of gas and/or smoke out the back. I assume that fuel vapor or fuel is continuing to make its way into the manifold after the car has been warmed up and then shut off. The only time it starts up perfectly is if it sits for 1-2 days (I assume this is because the extra fuel from the carbs has evaporated?) We have replaced the accelerator pumps, needle and seats, and power valves. Any idea what the fix could be? Any ideas for a solution would be appreciated.

Okay, makes sense. Does anyone know the specific size and type of tubing to use?

Hi everyone, I've read that the tokico rear illumina struts are the same thing as the front, but just have a short piece of tubing at the bottom that lengthens them just a bit. To anyone who's installed some tokico struts and dealt with the spacer- what is the proper length of the spacer so that the struts sit at the proper height? I'm picked up two pairs of front struts and am planning on just making the small spacer myself. Has anyone done that? I'm wondering what size tubing to buy and the proper length to cut it. If anyone has any advice, please let me know.