Jump to content

Zforce

Members
  • Content Count

    213
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Zforce

  1. He said "but that was my....car" The funny part is he was wearing a straight jacket when he said it. And if you are a true Z freak you know that Slap Shot is a Paul Newman classic and we know how Paul felt about Z-cars, RIP Paul.
  2. That electric pump is a Carter, Jegs has them part # 180-P4070
  3. That steering wheel looks like a formuling france wheel.
  4. Wasnt it you that said you keep a spare set of points because you don't trust the Pertronix ? Aircraft still use points to remove the failure mode that exists with electronic devices for safety. Even aircraft engines that use electronic ignition still use a magneto with points as a back up. And you are wrong about Aviation not directly comparable to Z-cars or automobiles in general. Porsche got faa certification on one of thier 911 CAR engines in 1980 in the Mooney PFM and they stood by their product for over 20 years. Anti locking brakes came from airplanes, fuel injection, water injection, t
  5. Check this out, a brand new 2011 Cessna 182 for nearly 400,000 dollars still uses points to trigger the magnetos. Why ? Because it is nearly failure proof and there are two of them for redundancy and performance, but mainly redundancy.
  6. I have been using the pertronix in a mallory dizzy since 2003 without any problem at all. And I don't think the 4000 rpm barrier even exists, at least not ignition wise. I think people are installing the pertronix and then driving the crap out of thier cars and uncovering other problems and blaming it on the pertronix. Fuel system problems are more likely the real issue. My car was cutting out at 4k also, but after installing the sm needles that problem went away,so did rich idle problem, smelly exhaust and my plugs are clean. Your tach should work fine, go back over the wiring, red pertronix
  7. You could lean it out a touch, when I fly I I start leaning above 3000 feet. There is no ballpark suggestion, too may variables, temperature, hummidity. What you are trying to maintain is a 15 to 1 air/fuel ratio. When you get up there you might notice the engine idling a little low,dont change the idle speed just lean it out some and the idle will pick up on its own. Be sure and richen it back up when you come down.Fyi you lose about one inch of mercury per 1000 feet of altitude and lose about 2.5 degees of temperature per 1000 feet lapse rate.
  8. Make sure your pcv valve is working, if it is you could have excessive blow-by. Are you running the stock air filter ? was there any oil in the filter housing ? oil in the filter housing is a sign of blow-by.
  9. Zforce

    Speedo issues

    Try repositioning the cable as is comes out of the tranny and goes to the firewall, make it as smooth as possible. Also did you lube the cable before you installed it ? The cable is more or less a giant spring and it's snapping around inside the cable sheath due to a kink somewhere along the cable, that's what is causing the needle to jump around.
  10. Richard Dryfuss gets parilized in Who's life is it anyway looked like a 260Z. In Blue thunder there is a hot wheels Z-car on the night stand where the kid is sleeping.
  11. What SteveJ said and start at driver rear first then pass rear pass front and so on. Speedbleeders work well too.
  12. If you timed the oil pump spindle correctly it is impossable to be 180 deg out. Spindle drive tang will be at 11:25 position when looking down the hole where the dizzy goes. Use a long needle nose pliers to pull the spindle into position then install pump. When you have done this correctly dizzy rotor will be pointing at about the 11:00 o'clock position. Be carefull when messing around with ignition wires, you could blow your muffler off the car or start a fire.
  13. With #1 cylinder at tbc spindle drive tang will be at 11:25 position looking down the hole where the dizzy goes, align the dot on the spindle with the dot on the oil pump to help engage the right teeth on the spindle with the worm gear on crank. It might take a couple of times to get it but that's the only way the engine is going to run right. Once this is done you cant screw it up, drive tang is offset ground so you can take the dizzy out and put it back without fear of being 180 degrees out. It also might be a good idea for you to get a factory service manual.
  14. I vote valve guide seals, even if the motor was rebuilt the seals were probably dry rotted to begin with. And you didn't say the engine was fouling plugs so the valve guide seals are probably hard as little rocks. If you do it yourself with the proper tools (kd tools 3087) it will cost about 60 bucks, or you can pay a mechanic 300.either way it's the least expensive probable solution.
  15. After 40 years it's gotta be a granade, whats better rebuild the old damper or buy a new one. I've heard horror stories about getting new ones to fit properly.
  16. Back to the vibration thing, I noticed a vibration at speed due to over advanced timing. When I backed off the timing a few degrees it went away. You might have too much total advance, and steaking of ignition you never did say how you resovled your Pertronix issue.
  17. looks right, when you install your intake manifold you will see it's right.
  18. When you open the hood and you can see the ground.
  19. I don't know what car it came out of but that's what I have, I think it may have come out of a 240sx but I can't be sure. I had to swap over the flages from the old diff to the new one as it had the plug in style flanges. I did that about 12 years ago with a "B" four speed box from a 280Z and L28 motor and Su's, runs like a scalded cat.
  20. It's a 3 maybe 4 hour job with the proper tools (kd tools 3087) valve spring compressor,magnetic screwdriver and about 10 feet of nylon rope, I used clothesline rope from the supermarket. You DO NOT need to remove the Cam, the hardest part of this project is finding the proper valve spring compressor. I found one on ebay for about 40.00 dollars. What you have to be carefull of is making sure you get the valve retainer collets out without losing them down the engine especially on cylinders 1 and 6, stuff a rag down the timing chain before you begin. Start with cylinder 1 and continue in the fi
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.