g9m3c

That looks great! I got an email from Ztherapy today saying my carbs will ship out tomorrow. Looks like I'm not gonna have these done by the time I need em.

Fully buffed with the Z decal applied. Not bad for spray paint, aye? That's all I did on it today. :: Probably not gonna get a lot done the rest of the week either. I'll be out of town for a few days, but hopefully it will be running in a couple more weeks or less! Any ideas on some cheap stamped air horns?

Eh.....not to me. Hopefully I can find a good deal on some 16 gauge stamped horns that I can weld onto a 16 gauge plate that'll bolt up inside of the air cleaners. Anyone know of a place for those? Ah.......those holes. I thought we were talking about holes for some other hoses or something. I plan to drill those and the mounting holes for the bases once the carbs get here and I have a good pattern to work from. I already have one of those "silly looking" breathers. It's a very small one, which I think looks better than a 1" diameter hose running across the top of the engine.

So......I should have added other holes into the base plate in addition to the one I have for the fuel bowl vents? These filters are only 3" thick............how tall should the air horns be?

It's a 260Z so my "stock airbox" wouldn't work with the rounds. I could have sourced a stock 240 air box, but that would have cost me a lot more than it has to build these. I work at Advance Auto Parts, so I got the filters cheeeeeep. I reckon a cold air setup would have been better, but these will be perfectly fine until I stick a new engine in her. Yes sir, slowly but surely. Haha, I wasted a lot of time on those flat tops. Oh well, at least I know how their guts look now. Go with the wing nuts..........go with the acorn nuts.............I get mixed opinions on eveyry site. :laugh:

Most of the fabbing done.... Started smoothing them up. You can also see the 1/4" hose barb welded on for the fuel bowl vent here. (Thanks for the heads up on that, Bruce! ) At this point, I tried out some of that "hammertone" paint in black, but apparently I got a bad batch or something.........it turned out like crap. So, I stripped that back off and went a different direction. That was right after I sprayed the 3rd coat of clear. I'm still gonna cut and buff them as well. The picture makes it look a little lighter. It's slightly darker in person. I also haven't decided between acorn nuts or wing nuts for the studs. I was thinking acorn nuts all along until I got it painted and tried them both. I think the wing nuts look better now. Not to mention easier removal. Sat the decal on there to get an idea of the look. Or........ What's your opinion? I still have to paint the base plate and then start fabricating the second set. I'm very happy with the outcome so far!

Some of you may remember me, but I haven't posted here in quite a while. I bought a nice 260Z last November and have been working on it on and off since. It sat in my backyard perfectly still for almost 3 months, and I couldn't stand it. So.......I'm trying to fix the issues that kept it off of the road for that period of time. I ordered a set of Ztherapy round tops about a week and a half ago, and they will hopefully be here a little later in the week. In preperation for them, I am cleaning and detailing under the hood and will hopefully have it ready for them to simply bolt up once they get here. I am also working on building my own air cleaners for them because I didn't feel like paying out the butt for them and wanted something a little more custom. The K&N part number I'm using for these is e-4518. They're 7" O.D. and 3" tall. By the way, all you fabricators out there, if you don't have a hand operated shear, GET ONE! I got this one for under $100 on ebay, and it has been a life saver. It cuts this 16 gauge like butter. A little decoration..... Not really any purpose in it, other than adding a tiny bit more rigidity to the lid, but it's gonna look awesome painted black with the Z logo in the middle. Plug welded from the back

Thanks for clarifying that! 46mm converts to 1.811 inches, ao I'll probably cut them to 1 13/16" just to be safe. Any idea on the float bowl vent outlet size?

I called Bruce today and asked this question, but made the mistake of not writing it down and forgot. Seems like he said 1 3/4", but I wanna be sure before I go cut that size hole in my new air cleaners. Also, will regular 1/4" fuel line fit the fuel bowl vent outlet nipples on top of the bowls? Thanks!

Looks awesome man! I LOVE the color and the clean under carriage.

This is what I have now.

MSD #8202 Blaster 2 coil. Is this the part number I need for my 260Z? I've read something about removing a ballast resistor (which I'm guessing is the cylinder shaped thing mounted next to the coil with a wire leading to the + connection on the coil?), but that thread was about a 240, so I wasn't sure if I had to do that or not. I've also read about some tachometer issues when installing an aftermarket coil. Do I need to do any wiring modifications to make it work or anything else? Thanks guys. -Grant

I'll probably end up peeling the rest of the chrome off of mine, and then painting the strips black. Eventually, I'll recover the whole panels and do away with the strip altogether. I don't understand why Nissan put a single wooden trim strip on the doors, and nooooowhere else in the car. haha, sorta looks out of place.

Alright, here's a cold (27F) start video to show how awfully it runs until it's warm. For the first 2-3 minutes, it won't idle unless you keep messing with the throttle. The first crank up, it will only crank with your foot on the floor. http://s31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...=MOV000020.flv Yea.....and here is after it's warmed up. When it's warm, it cranks perfectly. It will also rev up great. However, if you try and hold it steady at say, 2,000 rpm, it will stay there for a couple seconds, then die off until you play with the throttle again. You can see that in this vid. http://s31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...=MOV000021.flv At the end of that video, you can see it running about 1,000 rpm. That's with me giving it probably 20% pedal. It just stutters around 1,000 rpm and won't gain any unless you "play" with the pedal. You can also see in that video where it revs to 2,500 or more, then sputters down to idle, then back up....then down, etc. That's with my foot firmly in the same position. This is a '74 260, bone stock except for a deleted air pump.

Hmm, I don't see that particulator valve listed in my FSM.

Oh there's nothing wrong with them. They just didn't come with my $500 purchase of the car. This car will have an LT1 in it within a year or so. I just needed it to run for the time being. If you missed my other thread, it has a freshly rebuilt L26, but it had 3 bent valves because they didn't get the cam in time before running it. I'm just now getting it back together and running again.

I had a question about your front bumper-ettes. Are they sections cut off of a 240z bumper or something? Looks good, btw.

YES! It runs, and quite well at that. I think it was a combination of things that needed fixed or adjusted. We tuned on the carbs some, set the timing, and fixed a vaccum leak. Here's the end result: http://s31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...MOV00003-2.flv I'm probably gonna drive it around the block tomorrow. EDIT: Here's a better video. http://s31.photobucket.com/albums/c381/g9m3c/?action=view&current=MOV00006.flv

Well, at least it runs now! http://s31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...t=MOV00005.flv One thing I can't figure out though is the way it runs. It's idling really rough as you can tell in that video. That may just need some fine tuning though, as I haven't messed with the idle adjusting screws or even gotten my ignition timing in the ballpark yet. But ever once in a while, randomly, it will rev up to 4,000 rpm or so on its on for a second or two, then come back down to idle. It's crazy. Any ideas? It's definitely got a strong vaccum, even at idle. Maybe the vaccum opener control valve is spazzing out? I don't even know what that thing does. Haha

Yes I'm using flat tops, and yes, it was spraying fuel out through the choke. That's because it has a bent intake valve on cylinder #3. I'm going to guess and hope that you just haven't seen my other threads here and on HybridZ about this car, so you don't know the reasoning behind me using flat tops. This engine will not be in the car very long, because I have an LT1 sitting in my garage that will go in before long. Therefore, I'm just getting this thing going as is for the time being.

Yea I checked that earlier today. I'm taking the entire top end off tomorrow morning. Should be a fun Thanksgiving.

Nevermind, just found a bent valve. :mad: Apparently retards assembled this engine.

EDITED: Ok, I don't think that's the problem anymore. Something is wrong with my front carb I do think. When I look into it, the suction piston doesn't rise as I give it more throttle, whereas the back one does. Also, it sprays a little gas out through the inlet (choke) side. It runs the same if I take the front 3 plug wires off. What's wrong with my carb? I just rebuilt them both, and they were assembled identically to eachother.

I didn't really find anything definitive after tearing them apart. There was a small amount of debris in the needle and seat assembly, but not like I was expecting. The only passage blockage I found was this one. It runs directly from the bowl up into the throat of the carb, right inside the choke butterfly. I'm not sure how critical it is, but I pushed some nasty black stuff out of it with a toothpick.

One picture says it all. Thanks again geezer! I would have never figured out that little trick on my own. I won't forget it. -Grant