laffeaux

Yep, their web site has little info on the subject. I find it hard to believe that there's not some days where no one is on the track. It would be cool to have a few days where you could show up and drive a few laps. I've raced around the track on a mountain bike (Sea Otter Classic) - I'd just like to do it in a car.

The only one that I've seen was on a dealer's floor, and they said that they are not selling super fast. They received 2 and one sold right away, but the other was still there. They said that there is a lot of hype, but generally it takes a while before the sales catch on for new models.

Wow! What a lopsided poll. Too bad there aren't more women that enjoy Z's. Or maybe they are out driving them instead of talking about them here?

My car is more or less stock and has no racing history. However I'd love to take a few laps around Lagune Seca. Is it ever open to vintage street cars?

Look at the path that the air need to take to reach the head, and then look at the airpath for SUs. Afterwards I don't think you will think that downdrafts are a good option. SUs are cheaper and perform better on a stock or mildly modified engine.

Once the retaining nut is off the sensor shoud just pull out. If it's not it's most likely oxidized enough to attach itself to the housing. Try to get it out, or if you need to MSA sells new housings.

In the US the stock size for '71 is "175 H R-14." I'm not sure if the UK used the same size, or if you guys ever had the crazy system for giving tire size. I have my original spare and it's this size - an "H" is about a 70 or 75 in modern aspect ratio.

A man goes to see a doctor and says, "It hurts when I raise my arm like this." The doctor says, "stop raising your arm." My advice is don't slide through turns with a full tank of gas. I've had many cars spill gas when I overfilled them at the pump.

I want high quality rubber floor mats that say 240-Z on them. No one seems to make them. If you come up with those, I'm in!

A Nissan dealer near me has one in their showrrom. I was picking up a part for my car and took a look (no test drive). I like the looks of the car, but it's not a 240. The 240 is based on the Britsh car designs, while the new 350 scream Germany. The new car reminds me of teh Audi TT, and definitely is aimed at the German competition. Maybe that does make it like the 240 - the British cars were the sports car leaders in 1970, and the German cars are today. Hmmm... Anyway, it's a great looking car, but to me it's like the last 300Z's - let someone else own it and I'll admire it. To me the 240 is where it's at.

If you have a newer radio with a blue wire coming out, all you need to do is connect the blue wire from the new anntena (not the original style) to the blue wire from teh radio, and run power to the antenna. The anntena needs to be connected into a circuit that receives power when the ignition is off, and also needs to be grounded. There will be two wires running the length of the car - the blue wire, as well as the input power (red). The black wire goes to ground (anywhere in the rear of the car will do). I bought the MSA non-factory anntena and have had good luck with it. It works great with my radio. The installation instructions were a bit difficult however (i.e. there are about 20 adapters and you're not sure which ones to use with the car. I made it work in the end without the aid of the instructions.

The only rule of thumb I've ever heard, is start as far away from the master cylinder as possible and work towards it - usually pass rear, driver rear, pass front, driver front.

I noticed on eBay that there are two of bars listed for sale. Both bars are different and neither matches yours or mine. So I'd guess that there were a lot of different bars all of which were on Z's at some point (all were dealer installed, or aftermarket). http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1856227246 and http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1855529410

The average person does not spend time everyday on a Z specific web site, and probably has no idea that people know (or care) what was stock. Like XYZ says, the person was probably parrotting what they were told when they bought the car. I see Z's and '60's Mustang's listed as having V-6 engines in the local newspapers all the time. The sellers generally have no idea that there is a difference between a straight and V 6. Most people hear "V-6" and know that they own a 6 cyclinder and think that the terms are interchangable. Remember if you come to a car site, you're probably among the upper percentage of people (in the general population) who know about cars - even if you know next to nothing.

It sounds like you need to bleed your brake lines. It's not tough, but requires two people, and a good supply of new fluid. There are bleeder valves on each wheel and usually on the master cyclinder that when opened allow fluid (and any air in the system) to escape. You need to bleed the entire system to remove any air. One person needs to pump hte brakes, while the other crawls around underneath the car opening and closing the valve. A good repair manual will walk you through it.

I'm sure that the mounting varried by year, as the bumbers changed over the years too. Also, there could easily havbe been several manufacturers. If it gits your car, and you like it, then use it. It's probably from a Z.

The points are fine, they are two months old, and although I did not check the gap last night, there was one (the voltage checks I did were with the points open). Allso, I didn't touch them since it was running last. What's the "good" ground that you're refering too? The only thing I can figure is that when I was flushing the block that the exist tube from the manifold shoots water right at the distributor. I had the cap on the entire time that water was near the engine. Afterwards I pulled the cap for over 24 hours to ensure any water that did get inside dried. Maybe something didn't like the water that much? Possibly the condenser? I have no idea.

I meant 4 speed. (oops)

If it were a 5 speed there would be more interested people. It's hard to imagine a 240 auto.

Here's what it looks like. As far as I know it came on the car in '71.

I can't figure this one out. I just finished installing a new radiator, hoses, thermostat, etc. I flushed the whole system, and just replaced the coolant. All this took a few days. Today I tried starting it and it will not fire. I'm not getting any spark coming out of the coil. I've checked everything. I've gone through the Haynes Manual diagnostics and the coil, condensor, and coil wire all check out fine. But I'm still not getting spark. The only thing that I did to anything electrical system was to remove the heater blower in order to replace the heater hoses. I've not replaced it yet, and wasn't planning on doing so until I was sure there were no coolant leaks. There's no way that the heater is required to get spark is there? No way. Any ideas? With the points apart I get: I get 12V from the coil (+) lead to ground. I get 12V from the coil (-) lead to ground. I get 0V from the points to ground with the condensor wire removed. I get .005 OHMS from the coil to distributer wire. According to Haynes this means that I have no problems. Yet there is no spark leaving the coil. Any ideas????

My override bar for my '71 mounts differently. I have two bolts per side, but one is above the bar and one is below. Not sure what you were asking.

How much are you asking? What's the frame like? Where is the car located? (Not that I'm looking, but I'm curious.)

My opinion on the triple carbs is as follows: A 2.4 litre engine is cable of processing 296.6 CFM of air at 7,000 RPM. A stock Hitachi SU will flow at 150 CFM, and since there are 2 of them, that's 300 CFM. For a motor that can not turn more than 7K RPM. what good will the 3rd carb do? (Unless you have a more direct air path to the cylinder, maybe.) If the engine turned 8,000 RPM, the engine can process 339 CFM of air - in that case more carburation is needed, and Triple SUs would be a cool set up. So my opinion is that unless you're making major engine changes, a triple carb set up is overkill.

Okay, the pics should be working now (see above). I'm willing to ship, as long as someone is willing to pay for shipping. These wheels came on a 240 that I bought. I wanted slotted mags instead of turbines, so I found a set on eBay (paid too much) and had them professionally restored. The new rims look great, and these are sitting in my garage. The rims are not damaged, but are heavily oxidized - the brown in the pics is not dirt, it's oxidation. They can be used as is, but to really look good, they're need a lot of clean up work. The shop that restored my new wheels seemed to thing that getting these back to new would be easy enough, but I'd already spent $500 on the first set, so I passed on the offer. If you're interested, let me know. I'm going to list them on eBay unless I can find a buyer here. Note: the tire in the pic is not included. $150 or best offer.