JohnnyO

He told me to boil them (already read that here) and instead of greasing them he said to use anti-seize. I was going to ask for opinnions on the anti-seize. Anybody want to chime in about anti-seize instead of silicone grease on poly bushings?

I did a search and didnt find any posts about this ebay vendor so I thought I would give credit where credit is due. I needed sway bar and steering rack bushings and a steering coupler but didn't need the complete Energy kit so I turned to ebay to find them. I searched for the sway bar bushings first because I have a performance sway bar that requires 15/16ths I.D. bushings with a 1.5 in. height that would fit my brackets and figured they would be difficult to get. I found zpartshouse on ebay and searched around his store. First thing I noticed was his 100% feedback profile with around 3300 positives. I found some 15/16ths ID bushings for a Mustang so I emailed the seller (Ed) and asked what he thought. He promptly called me back to get details about my sway bar, take measurements of the old bushings and informed me that the Mustang bushings had a height of about 2" which would not work with my car. In fact, nothing he had listed on ebay would fit properly with a non-stock sway bar. He offered to check his warehouse in some "unsorted" stock he had. I accepted his offer to search for them and left off that he would send me a paypal invoice for the total of the parts if he was able to find them. About 15 minutes later my phone rang again, it was Ed. He had found sway bar bushings that would fit and would bundle them with my other parts. While we were completing the deal I got to BS-ing with the guy about Z cars and he offered up lots of performance tips and tricks for the early Z cars and some advice on getting the steering rack bushings in nicely. Turns out he worked at Dragonetti motors in the early 70's which is where my car was purchased new. He spent about 30 minutes on the phone with me and at least that amount searching for parts and filling my order. I guess my point is that Ed of zpartshouse went above and beyond to take care of me and I wanted to give him a recommendation here. It is not often that you get service beyond expectations. John:beer:

Do you know the Dupli-color "color"? Might help anyone on a budget that stumbles across this thread. Thanks, John

Bean dip said the front bumper looked correct for an early 260, no mention of the back. Also, where do I sign up for my disability? Everyone else is getting help from that idiot, Z owners should too!

Being as your car is dated 09/77 it was probably shipped to the US and sold and titled as a 78 in late October or November, possibly later. Hope that helps.

I feel violated. Doesn't Obama have a bailout program for people that feel violated?

I read this post quickly and looked at his location. Now that I know it is his car I really think he was just trying to get attention to his ebay ad. With that said, I would never pay 4 grand for non-stock, modified 260. You can get a decent 240 for what he is asking. He should have asked "what do you think about my car/ad?" Just my opinion and you know what they say about opinions.

Looks very straight for a 36 year old car. I would see if someone in Texas can go look at it for you. I would ask for some pictures of the battery tray area, floor pans from inside the vehicle, spare tire drum, vin plates, close ups of dog legs and inside rear wells, I would also question why there is no emblem on the rear deck. Also, the foot pedals are a good sign of wear on a car. If they look well worn I would guess that it might have a few more miles on it than 57K, if they look relatively new I would guess the mileage might be correct. As the seller states the 260 was limited to 1 year of production but the number of people collecting 260's is much less than the number collecting 240's. Keep that in mind when bidding on the car. Supply and demand, not as much supply for this one but also not as much demand. Good luck. John

What years had aluminum drums? Does anyone have pictures of original drums? John

Why don't you pack up your tools and head to Iowa? Here's the directions: http://www.mapquest.com/maps?1c=Springfield&1s=OR&1y=US&1l=44.046398&1g=-123.020798&1v=CITY&2c=Moscow&2s=ID&2y=US&2l=46.732498&2g=-116.999199&2v=CITY Kidd could really use your help!

Doesnt specify 11mm or 14 mm on ball joints. I would guess 14 but you never know.

Check with ztherapy.com. I think they rebuild airboxes. Welcome to the club. John

Well, if you ever take a cruise out to the Twin Cities let me know. John

I'm only guessing here but I would say his reserve is somewhere around 10 grand based on the fact that he quoted the NADA website about a 100 point vehicle and they put the middle value at 11 grand. Just my thoughts. I wish I had the garage space right now.

Why not just buy new patch panels from Tabco and weld them in? http://www.tabcobodyparts.com/html/table_of_contents.htm John PS What part of Wisconsin are you in? I'm in Hudson.

Thanks for the ad. I guess I am glad I went with PPG, not that I had a choice. All the local supply houses only carry PPG these days and it is getting harder and harder to get paint mailed. Yes, Safari Gold is what everyone here is calling it. But for all that might be shopping the PPG paints, the color you get will be called Nissan Gold. This is what comes on the label printed by the supply house when you pick up your paint. John

I went with the original configuration. Red Oxide epoxy primer over light grey sealer then the top coat. My paint guy had a sample of the original paint which has definately changed in 40 years but it took him 8-10 light coats to get the depth of the color in the original sample. You can tell from the thread that people have been trying to match this color and "that's about the closest you can ask for" seems to be the common answer. Like I said, after going with 3 or 4 Prophet gun samples from different areas I decided that the closest match was the PPG ShopLine 23576 in both single stage (wheel wells, under carraige and engine bay) and base/clear for the outer shell and jambs. When you get to paint and have questions let me know. John

Cool, they must have welded series 2 skins on while they were available. And yes, I was talking about the airdam. It is a matter of preference like Arne says. I prefer the air dam look (I always called them front spoilers as a kid and I guess it stuck). I think it makes the front end look beefier. I am going to buy one for mine. I am not sure whether or not to paint it body color or leave it with the graphite look. I have the valance and corners ready to bolt on but will just store them for when I show/sell the car. What's your opinion on not painting the airdam? Is it designed to be left unpainted? I found the xenon airdam online for $209 plus shipping but they wanted $179 for shipping without asking for my zip code! Seems to me that they are looking to make $100 on the shipping. Where did you get yours and, if you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay? John

! When I was in high school a buddy of mine had this installed in his mustang. His parents had it installed after he backed into his second vehicle in the high school parking lot. The dude wore coke bottle glasses and drove a 4 cylinder mustang. Worst driver I ever met. Growing up in South Florida I always thought they were for old people. John

Did you check the firewall engraving to compare the vin # to the plates on the door and the engine bay? The vin is engraved just above the master vac on the drivers side firewall. Looks good by the way, I had a spoiler like that on mine when purchased but it was cracked so I ditched it. I like those alot more than the bre style. They seem to complete the front end! John

I ended up editing my post. I found another thread where he says the PO had changed the hatch and pillar emblems "to look like a series 2". It could have been in an accident too and the PO didnt tell/know. Anything is possible after 40 years, we all know that. John

Thanks for the reply, I have been eyeing that thing for a while now.

Welcome to the board.

Thanks Dan and John. Like I said, I will tackle this tomorrow on my day off (Government worker!) I did find another area in the bay that was a little thin and I might just mask off that entire area after I sand down the runs and give the whole area a couple coats after hitting it with 600 grit. I do have the remainder of the paint, hardener and reducer which is more than enough to do the job right. I will let everyone know how it turns out. John

They do look very nice.. How long do they soak? Is this the kit: http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/zinc.htm John