IdahoKidd

My dad used to use a kotex (or that "type" of product) in the old chevy. Never thought a thing about it at the time. I'll have to check the old Chrysler and see if it has a roll in it. (it doesn't get driven much). I know the old Volvo uses a cartridge but a roll "can be used in an emergency". One wouldn't think the oil could get through in a timely manner and it would just go through the bypass.

The problem is solved! All along it has felt like air in the lines. Turns out, it was. Apparently I have some misinformation as well. I wasn't there when the solution was discovered, but apparently, the discs were not off a zx (he used my old zx calipers for cores) but off a Maxima. Accoriding to the guy at the private shop, when they were on the Maxima, they were on the leading edge of the the rotor and are now on the trailing edge of the Z (could be opposite but you get the picture). While the bleeder appeared to be at the top, it wasn't quite. The mechanic pulled the calipers off, still attached to the lines, put a block of some sort between the pads, and rotated the caliper and bled out "a couple of big old farts". So now, and I quote, "the pedal is firmer than a groom on his wedding night". Always loved working on some one elses mix and match conversion stuff:sick:. Thanks for the help and suggestions along the way. Leonard

Have spent weeks fooling with rear brakes on this car but still no solution. I've always considered myself a pretty good trouble shooter but am at a loss. Here is the recap: 1975 280Z. Installed zx calipers in the rear, (new reman's from Orielly's), braided steel lines to the hard lines and a reman 15/16 master from Carquest. New reman 4 piston Toyota calipers on the front with steel braided lines. The problem: On initial application, there is no pedal pressure until the pedal is nearly half way down, at which time it becomes very firm. At this point there is enough line pressure in the front lines to firmly lock the front tires (tested at highway speeds as well). There is NOTHING at the rear wheels. Pumping the pedal quickly at least 4 times firms the pedal and will lock the rear tires (at high way speeds as well). Release the pedal pressure and instantly back to front brakes only. What has been done; The system has been extensively and repeatedly bled. The front master was replaced. No change. The rear calipers have been replaced. No change. The reaction disc was checked and is in place. The pedal adjustment has been checked, adjusted, manipulated, no change. It clearly is an issue with the rear system. There is no leaking, no lines bulging (visibly), no other signs of problems. It truly feels like there is air in the line, but there isn't. Am at a total loss and very frustrated. Read up on the NP valve last night after burning up yet another 5 hours of fooling with this thing. It doesn't seem likely it could cause these problems but down to the 'what ifs'. Does any of this strike a cord with you folks who have converted the rear to disc brakes? Any other thoughts? Trying to get this car to a local show and it would be great if it would stop reliably. Thanks! Leonard

The header is a pacesetter. Bought new in the box from a private party and thought it was something else. Had a fitment problem (addressed a while back in another thread) with the thickness of the flange but figured it out. Also had to modify the compression washers to clear a couple of the tubes. Going all the way to the back with separate pipes (twice pipes) through a small glass pack and a resonator tip. Travel'n Man, definately doing a plated heat shield. Would like to do the header like you mentioned but am trying to figure out where it all stops. I have almost $14 grand in the car as it is and haven't even fired it yet. Would like to make Canby this year but it ain't looking good. BTW, what should I do to the carbs to keep them pretty? I have a clear coat on the valve cover but not so sure about the carbs. Who is doing what to theirs? Thanks! Leonard

Yes they are. I need to contact Bruce as to what I should do. They are either too short or too long. Not going to do anything yet without asking. Too much $$$ at stake to make a dumb mistake. It is actually more of an angle problem but it is a really simple fix I am sure. The pics don't do justice, the euro tube was THEE way to go.

Some pictures of before and after the arrival of my carbs. Clearly a much more sanitary set up. Spent the rest of the day getting the undercoating in place. That turned out really well but not all that worthy of a picture I wouldn't think. First two pictures are the before and after of the assembled set up. Note how clean the first picture is compared to the hose monster in the second. No smog, no water jackets, cleaned up euro balance tube with only one vacuum port. Had the motor turned flat to install the headers and carbs. Can't imagine for a minute trying to get all the nuts and washers on the studs while in the car. Last pic is the carbs as they came out of the box. Hot Damn!

Ordered up set of carbs with Bruce at Z Therapy and they came yesterday. Chose the euro balance tube and non water set up. Right out of the box they looke AWESOME!! My buddy who is running tripple webers on his 75 had the reaction of "DUDE!" so I know they met his approval. I don't get to run them for some time, engine is still out of the car and the undercarrriage is at the the powder coater's but am very tickled to say the least. I know there are endless accaledes out there, but Bruce, who I am certain has a PhD in BS, is great to work with! I'll get them mocked up along with the header this morning and then undercoating the entire car while the suspension is out. The Tokico's are in the box waiting to go in and the last "big" thing is the Rota's and tires. It has been a long while getting the car back together but the deal was I had to pay cash for it as I went. My buddies don't understand that, but somehow it makes the whole project that much sweeter. The moment I find my camera I will get a couple of pictures. Leonard

ebay today

Sent the seller a question: "Seriously" Response is: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hmmm lets see, 726 documented actual miles, a 1971 LS7 454 one of a thousand ever made, all the work was done in 1977 and the car stored for 30 years. Barrett-Jackson wanted me to put it in Scottsdale auction. It will be in Hot August Nights auction if it doesnt sell. This thing was put together by one of the sons of Earl Schieb, I have all the paperwork to prove and appriasals from classic car dealers. Yes, seriously. Outloud resonse by me is "Seriously?"

We just bought one last week at carquest (master cylinder)

Correct. The parts in the 240 are physically smaller than those of the zx.

If the calipers aren't working smoothly, it definately could affect the way the vehicle brakes. Stick with the correct parts for the car until you get the initial problem fixed. By changing out or upgrading, you may be creating secondary issues. (don't use the zx master for example-use the correct one) It will be money very well spent.

NO. 240 has 3/4 cylinder and ZX has 15/16.

Could be Sarah, I remember in high school putting a piece of meat in a petri dish and putting coke on it. About 2 days it was a disgusting mess. Nasty stuff. That's why pepsi was invented;)

Your 280z is exactly like my 77 280z. My 240z does not have that hole and has a more pronounces opening for the muffler. If you are planning to shave the rear end or smooth it out, you shouldn't encounter any problems at all. And it will look nice!

Marvel Mystery Oil is my potion of choice. Put some in the fuel to get lube in the rest of the intake. Be sure to clean out the tank before you start it or you'll create more problems than you knew you had. And if you try to tow it, be dang sure the brake system is working! My dad used to use coke from a bottle to eat away the rust in cylinders. Swore by it.

Found this cruising through the ads on CL. All I can say is... well I can't. I'm speechless. http://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/2323585420.html

Good looking car! Something is amiss with the clutch hydraulics. Fluid in the cabin is a bad sign, but consistant with the problem. The clutch is not being disengaged because the pedal is not pushing enough fluid to move the slave cylinder which moves the through out bearing. Fluid in the cabin has to come from the clutch master, which means it is leaking. Remove and replace the master from the firewall. You will need to bleed the air out of the system which is done via the bleeder valve on the slave at the transmission. It will require the help of someone to depress the pedal while you do it. A rebuilt master can be had for less than $20.00 Entire process of changing it out could take less than 15 minutes if you have any mechanical skills.

zx tranny's are plentiful. Best bet on a change over is to have a donar car available. Don't use the turbo tranny. Too much work. Lots of information, fact and opinion in the search section for 5 speed.

Sounds like bad connection at the battery cables, on either post. Do the lights go out when it clicks?

There are two factory flywheels, the stock regular everyday 4 and 5 speed equiped cars, and then the 2+2 and turbo flywheels. Each has a clutch diameter for that particular flywheel. The new clutch kit should come with a new bearing. Many of the kits come with the complete collar, others just with the replacement bearing. The forks are the same. There are at least two, if not three, different depths of collars and it is critical that you get the correct one. The collar is dependant on the clutch, not on the trans type or flywheel size. When assembled, there will be a small amount of movement of the collar and bearing against the pressure plate. If there isn't movement, the collar is to long. If there is a lot of movement, the collar is to short (1/2" movement for example). When you get a kit, it is the simplest to get one with the collar and bearing together. It might cost $20 more, but it is well worth it. I just bought an oe style sachs kit with lifetime warranty from Orielly's that came with the collar for under a $100. This was the smaller of the two, but seriously doubt there is much difference in the price. Good luck.

I'm jumping on the driveline bus too. Ujoint or balance issue. (Bent would be a balance issue) Could be a messed up diff, had that event once in a different car, but it revealed itself about the 4th time I let off the throttle to try to find it. Drive line came out still attached to the pinion flange. Could e a lot of things, even including a separating tire. Let us know what you find. I see you are new. Welcome!

I have to agree with Mike B and FastWoman. Both present solid arguments. With all due respect to Escanlon, I think his argument is more emotionally driven. We can wish these cars to be something more than they are but they simply aren't. They are unique, but hardly rare. For every one that is in "show" or "restored" or choose your adjective, there are 500 available that are not. It is sort of like the hot chick, yeah, everybody would like to have one, some people will spend a stupid amount of money to be around one, but the nearly hot chick is by far the more realistic to be around. I don't believe for a minute that someone comes to this site, reads this or any other review, and cancels his purchase for a Z. Nothing but buyer demand determines the value of this car or any other. There isn't a lot of demand for this car in the price range above $5000. There are simply too many to choose from. To see a price of $38,000 elicits out loud laughter and actually creates a loss of credibility. But, if the seller can get that kind of money, good for him. Someone with money to blow might, might, buy this car for that amount. (If you had $38K to spend on a car, would you buy this one?) Would two of these in the same ebay auction time frame sell for the same price? I would think that would determine the ebay value at least. Very rarely is there a spirited bidding war for a Z after $6000. As with the seller, and the members of this site, everyone is entitled to their own opion. I hope everything remains spirited but friendly and respectable. I personally view this site as an opportunity to receive help about my Z, offer help to others about their Z, and participate in a common comradery. This is my tailgate party before a weekend with my Z. Leonard

If, and I say if, that car is a 10, mine is an 8+, and I received one (1) spam request about my car for $33K less. Not in this lifetime will that car sell for $38K on ebay. And I agree with FastWoman, there is rust under the hatch rubber and ?? And it has a black interior. Who buys that color car with a black interior when a white is available? Leonard

Pointless