grantf

You're car is in good hands. Most people would have sent it to the crusher. Another Z saved.

welcome, Pics? Hey, since you mentioned parts can you spare a set of headlight pigtails and there respective connectors, The round three pin ones (280z). I am having Dave build me a headlight harness. I have some odds and ends I could trade

Looks like you have at the least done some homework. Check for rust (even with fresh paint). The car pictured has a 280z hood, missing rear bumper sides and a really strange looking front bumper (perhaps a front end incedent). Clutch replacement is one of the easer jobs and should not cost much, $100-$150 if you do it yourself. Talk him way down considering it is not a running car. Good luck.

Cool

Welcome what part of the northwest is Rock Island? Don't shoot! http://youtu.be/cKxhlXZ3hcY

rear brake write up next?????

and make sure you're Z is yellow!

I would get one with an engine, it's more road usable. Because you say you are not a mechanic, going with a stock setup will give you a lot less headaches and in the long run it will cost less to maintain and be easer to learn. Good luck.

Just a quick question, Since I have the same symptom, meaning that the engine runs fine until it has sat for lets say 5 to 15 min, then restarted it stumbles and hesitates until it runs for lets say 5 min. Does engine performance improve because gas running through the hot injectors actually cool them? Just trying to understand the symptom.

Aso stating the year you're car was manufactured helps, I am gathering 1983. Thanks black gold man, after seeing the dyslaxic picture my reading has been reverted backwards (or backwardish).

So instead pandering to the criticism, could you clarify you're question? Are you comparing two different engines for you're car? explain. By the way, my spelling sucks but I use spell check. Proof read before you hit the post button. Try to write better and people will be more respectful. my "too" cents

Ok, So now I have at least 3 different options for wiring the relays. The Tycho relays are on order. I have seen Fastwoman's schematic and I think it is similar to Dave's. This whole endeavor has been food for thought in a few different respects (respect being one). But now I think I will go the Dave Irwin route If he still does custum harnesses for the 280z, as I had a spill at work and fractured a rib :hurt:. It's allmost to painfull to stoop down under the wheel well. It sucks in a way because I really like doing the work myself but sometimes I guess you could say it's time for assistance.

My guess is a very rich running engine. Fastwomans bet would be a possible cause. So I second that. When I was having trouble with my car one symtom was black exhaust. The temp sensor was one of of many culprets. I'm sure if you looked at the plugs they would be black also. Did you replace the AFM with a new one?

72OJ, Have you put them on yet? did they work well? I am thinking of buying them but I don't want to jump the gun.

really I am going to look into that.

the above diagram was drawn up pretty quickly. I left out the high beam indicator. Right now I am just thinking of different ways of doing this and wondering which is best.

Would this work?

PMs set to H4LIGHTS and the Moderator. I was off base.

what part on the interior do you wish to have restored?

Ordered the tyco relays and connectors. did some searching on other sites, it seems they are a very common choice. H4lights, You are not helping at all, you are just being annoying. I do not need electrical lessons from you.

where did I state that I would use 25 cent relays. I said order. Not much to loose in that if I do not use them I am not out much. I have nothing to prove and no reason to. I think I started this thread to gather information about relays, not how to burn down my car. thanks again for youre help.

I was being sarcastic.

thanks.

Ok so, what relay do you recommend? It seems that even high quality ones are not that expensive. can you show me a relay you recomend? About the rebuilding of combo switches, I have brand new ones (the spares are in a box for safe keeping).

So you are saying that I should use 18 gauge wire throughout and make all of my conections by twisting the wires together and taping them up with masking tape, ok. Really why would I do a half assed job trying to improve what works already. The reasons I am doing this is to improve the headlight brightness and to take the load off of combination switches that I just replaced. ( I don't whant my new ones burned up). But I know what you mean I have fixed all of the PO's hack jobs and I do not intend on going back to what I started with. So thanks for helping with a relay choice.