JEFF

FHK - Welcome to the site!! I see that you are from Huntsville, AL - I bought my '72 240Z from a guy in Huntsville 12 years ago. He had moved up here to Michigan to go to Aviation school to be an "Airframe and Powerplant" mechanic - needed the money,sold me the car! - Jeff

I'm trying to find the 3 piece style. - Jeff

Carl - I went through my whole engine in Febuary. Here are a few things that you might want to do/watch for. 1) If the head gasket that you are using does not have a "sticky" side thats fine - do not add anything to it. 2) I would not recomend loctite on any bolts - But I do recomend a Hi-Temp AntiSeize on all the bolts that thread INTO the Cylinder Head. Something with a high Nickel or copper content(1800 deg.) 3) A few good places to use Permatex (get the black stuff - It's called "Ultra-Black" the # at the bottom of the tube is "598B") is on the valve cover gasket - valve cover side only, on the front cover geskets- both sides, on the oil pump gasket- both sides, on the oil pan gasket- both sides( do not over torque the pan bolts), on the water pump gasket - both sides, on the chain inspection cover at the front of the head, and on the theromostat housing where it mates with the head.---- I did not use it anywhere else on the engine. 4) When you assemble everything - use copious amounts of oil - use the same type of oil that you plan the run the engine with. TIPS(from exp.) DO NOT loose tention on the timing chain while trying to install the timing gear on the cam. To avoid this make yourself a wooden wedge about 4" long on about 15 deg. angle, drill a hole through the wide end and attach a 8" loop of heavy string through the hole, when the chain is set correctly on the crank gear - compress the chain tentioner fully with the chain in place - use the wedge to hold it in that position.( pull the wedge out by the string ONLY after the cam gear and chain are mounted correctly on the cam. Follow your manual closely for the oil pump and distributor shaft installation. If I think of somthing else I'll reply again. - Jeff

Tom- Thanks for the info - I'll retrieve my cataloge from work tomarrow. Cheers - Jeff

I put a full dash cap on my car 10 years ago - still looks perfect:classic:!! I do not like the half caps because of the edge/seam that shows all the way accross the dash. My cap fits into all the guage openings and fits very nice. MSA still sells them. - Jeff

Si|v3r72 - I'm not looking for the seal that goes around the door opening - The piece that I need is only about 8-10 inches long. It's mounted to the door above the hinges. I did not go look up the part #'s you posted - Are they what I described? - Jeff

I'm trying to find the rubber that is attached with push pins/clips at the top front of the doors on a '72 240z. The rubber seals between the door and the fender for wind noise I think. VB did not have it, Datsun Dude did not have it, MSA did not have it, Where else do I look? - Jeff

2ManyZs - I laughed out loud when I read "4. The expression "you sound like a broken record" means nothing to them." the second time only 7 lines apart -- hint,hint ?? - Jeff

That sprocket bolt is a right hand thread. Try "shocking" it loose with a quick smack on the 19mm wrench using a steel hammer or a dead blow hammer. That is the best way if you don't have a air impact wrench. - Jeff

What a cool site -- Thanks ZmeFly! I'm on there. - Jeff

ZmeFly - That Avatar is very cool! -Jeff

Look at the rod caps and the rods. There is a number stamped on each one per which cylinder it belongs in. #1 is at the front of the car. If you remove the pistons from the rods and plan to put them back on be sure they go back on the same way and on the same rod. - Jeff

"just hook a battery up to it and crank that som bitch with the starter. it will work and you will be able to get your compression readings. " The starter mounts to the trans bell housing, The engine is mounted to a engine stand w/ the trans bolts. At least that's the way I read the above posts. - Jeff

I went through my whole engine 2 months ago. This was the easy part. If you 'reset' your crank to TDC - do not move it. You need to rotate the cam untill the #1 dowel hole lines up,Both valves on the #1 cylinder must be closed. This will put the top 'Bright Link' at about 3 o'clock. Your bottom 'Bright Link' will also be at 3 o'clock on the crank gear. - Jeff

I put Fuel Injection from a '78Z on my L24 block. That makes a very fast revving 2.4L engine. - Jeff

clutchdust - Those notches you mentioned ..... belong on the cam side not the bolt side. The notch corisponding with the dowel used will line up with the mark on the cam retaining plate. When the cam to crank timing is correct 3 items will be lined up. 1) The 'bright' link on the chain will be in line with the 'one' dot on the cam sprocket. 2) The other 'bright' link on the chain will be in line with the dot on the crank sprocket. 3) The notch on the cam sprocket will be lined up with the mark on the cam retaining plate. To see the notch on the cam sprocket you need to look through one of the four elongated holes then you can line it up with the mark on the cam retainer plate. The mark on the plate is at about 11:00 o'clock - the bright link will be lined up at somewhere between 2 & 3 o'clock for the cam - at 3 o'clock for the crank. The engine reassembly section of my manual explained the proceedure very clearly. - Jeff

1) Be sure you haven't pulled the cam forward in the bearings. It can be moved forward and backward alittle. Look down from above and see if you can see any shinny areas. Move the cam with a push or pull by hand to cover any shinny areas. This is probably not the problem but look anyway. 2) when looking at the cam sprocket face that faces forward (toward the radiator) the 3 dowel holes are marked 1 , 2 & 3. You should be located on the one marked 1. If you can read the #'s from in front of the engine then it's on right. 3) Check to see if the valve cover is hitting the cam-oiler tube , not allowing it to sit all the way down. - Newer valve covers do not fit on heads with the external oiler rail. Hope I helped. - Jeff

sawilliams - is a "single point timing marker" the timing marker that is bolted to the front engine cover? If that is what you need then I have one for you. If it is a single point distributor that you need I have one of those also. - Jeff

Cool - because they drive them really slow around metro-Detroit. - Jeff

JMEAD - sjcurtis has good advice in his post- ("I think your pop and associated shut down could be a very lean mixture and faulty air flow meter operation. You may have to do some work on the airflow meter to increase the fuel to air ratio allowing a better burn rate. let us know what you find"-sjcurtis) If airflow and/or fuel mixture are in fact contributing to the "pop", then it could have started to effect the valves.(hope not). You can "read" the burn on the spark plugs. If they are really light tan to chalky white - the fuel/air ratio is way to lean. The plugs should be a light chocolate brown, not sooty, not oily,and certainly not white. - Jeff

A blown head gasket between a cylinder and the water jacket will put HOT exhaust in to the cooling system. When that happens the thermostat gets 'steamed'. It will make the temp. guage skyrocket. Test the coolant temp. in the radiator with a cooking thermometer. If you did put 'stop leak' in the radiator then I suggest replacing the thermostat anyway. Why is there pressure in the overflow bottle??? - Jeff

Start with a compression check. If all the compression readings are within 10 psi of each other then OK. If not then I would check the valve clearances between the cam and the rocker arms, it may be tight on the lower compression cylinders. It may be that the intake valves are not seating fully, thus the 'pop' and able to feel it in the pedal,(the 'pop' causes the throttle plate to jerk). If the valve clearances are correct, have a 'leak-down' test done on all 6 cylinders to check for burnt valves. You could narrow it down to a cylinder by driving with one plugwire off. alternate untill the 'pop' goes away, That's the one! The jumpy tach ??? check the ground wire that grounds the intake manifold to the drivers fender well. That ground is part of the whole bundle of wires that run the fuel injection system. A loose ground can do VERY funny/irritating things. Replace the cap & rotor. Clean carfully inside the distributor. besure the magnet on the pickup is CLEAN. Besure that all wires are tight. Check all the ground wires that you can find. Besure that all wire connections are CLEAN. Hope this helps. Good luck! - Jeff

Not a Buick?? - Jeff

My guess is that the FLOOR PAN was replaced/repaired, judging by the drilled out spot welds on the rail. OR new rails have those holes in them. As suggested above, sandblasting is a good way to remove the rust and then be able to see exactly what is there(or not there). - Jeff

I got mine at MSA, with the set that I bought. - Jeff