Zedrally

The S30 FSM is still available. Having both a 240 & 260, I usually use the S30 manual for both. Try ebay for an original 240.

Este, Do yourself a BIG favour and buy yourself Humbles book. It is invaluable. If the funds can be streached, then a FSM [factory service manual] is another indispensible reference. HIH MOM

Was that for 1,2 3 or all 4? MOM

I've posted all details with sjcurtis. I'm trying to avoid a double up, so I'll wait with the live ones.

Sorry, Alan, Carl, Chris etc, but I can't help myself. Firstly, you wouldn't get away with this wording in Australia. It's just pure deception to call it that... Factory means just that, Factory. For it to be Factory restored it would need to be returned all the way back to Japan and restored in the Factory that it came from. Nissan, Datsun, Dealer restoration or reconditioned would be a more suitable wording. There are no silly silly semantics in this. The wording was very poorly selected, by who? Perhaps we will never know? Why not compromise and accept that the wording is mis-leading [whether intentional or not] and not enshrine this wording as our old mate Goertz was!

Still on the rally car.

Alan, just when I thought the mention of Goertz would be the blip on your radar! Happy New Year to all the righties..... MOM

This probably isn't the answer your looking for, however as I've just had a set of struts dropped off and am pondering about what to do, I can add that you may be better off without the Koni's. They where a brilliant stut in there day, however a gas shock is infinately better. I used them in the rally car and am dis-appointed with them, perhaps I've been badly advised? They certainly would perform better on a circuit car, so it really depends on the use you intend to put the car to! Now, with your permission, as I have all the suspension specialists attraction. A question... I have just acquired a set of 2+2 struts from Zkid, [thanks Chris]. They appear to be perfectly functional, hence my reluctance [without good reason] to do an upgrade to KYB's. How can I test them? [they are already stripped down less springs]. I know that the repair kit has been un-available for decades, has anyone succesfully serviced them when they have been in good condition or should I just put the KYB inserts in and save myself all the hastles? TIA

I'm wondering if there is any co-relationship with models that sported clear hatch glass and a hot air intake for the air cleaner box? for example, clear hatch, no hot air intake?

If it's a 5 speed with 5th being direct, then you could have either a Nissmo box or a Holinger conversion. Unfortunatly, your in Townsville and any cartage costs would negate the cost of the box heading down south........

When running an engine for Max Power, mixtures are set rich. This enables the engine to run cool, avoiding excessive cylinder head temperatures. Aero engines have an advantage in that mixture can be manually set from lean to rich, handy when your flying, perhaps not such an advantage with both feet firmly plated on the ground....

LanceM I don't know what stock is but mine is now about 2.5 turns from lock to lock, it might be harder to turn but you don't have to turn so much to get to the same place... 12-27-2004 04:14 AM Interesting question: What is stock and how many different types of "shorter" arms are available?

I put some "weld" over the hole and waited a whole day until I started the engine. She fired right up again and this time there was hardly any smoke out the back. I tried to give it some gas but the back carb only "hissed" at me and the engine wanted to die. After running idel for around 5 minutes, The weld melted off and it was back to smoking and wanting to die out. I think you have answered your own question? If the engine runs when the hole is fixed up, then why don't you fix the hole correctly, then start the fine tuning.

Arm yourself with a can of RP7 or WD40 and with the engine running, spray a small amount around the inlet manifold, start at No.1 and work backwards. If the manifold gasket is leaking, you will notice a pickup in engine RPM. Valve cover will not cause this....

Replace the capacitor before you do anything else.....

Has anyone have any idea as to why there was a change made from vertical to horizontal wires? Last post for Xmas 2004, wish all my zed friends that have made life interesting over the past few years on this list a merry merry xmas.... [most of all to Mike G who made this all possible]! Look forward to more riviting correspondence in '05... Mike N

Hi Alan, You have asked an interesting question. Perhaps we should start a new thread on this topic, rather than hi-jacking the thread? My 73 doesn't have a HRW. It's the first zed I've seen in Aus without one. My original thoughts revolved around the rear hatch being replaced with non heater wire/whatever you call it glass. However on closer inspection, there is no provision for the electrical contacts on the rear, nor is there a switch or provision in the harness. This has been blanked out. On minute inspection of the glass, one can make out very faint vertical lines, which would correspond to the early model HRW, none the less they have been obliterated. My conclusion is that this car was made up of any bits that where left over from the last of the RHD 240 production. Any further thoughts? MOM

Amen..... The message you have entered is too short. Please lengthen your message to at least 10 characters.

You may want to investigate the distributer as a whole. ie, are the bearings shot,causing the rotor to wooble? Have you checked the points? Capacitor? Intermittant spark can be caused by all the above as well.

Some coils come with built in ballast. If the new coil has a built in resistor, then you would not need the resistor, on the other hand......if it hasn't then you do. How this equates to Petronox ignition I have no idea, many others on this list have installed them and much discussion has occured over the years about it. Have you used the search function in the forums, I'm sure the answer is already there? MOM

I would think as long as either chain fits and there is no obvious slack that hasn't been taken up by the chain tensioner, then one is as good as the other.

Gav, don't worry about a re-build, just go to a wrecker or auto-lec and grab changeover. The current unit will fail when you least expect it, usually about 300k from home on a rainy night. The last one I got cost me $40. FWIW MOM

THis method is possible if you already possess triples, it will not work with SU's as you need existing throttle bodies. SU's don't have them as such. HIH

Front spoilers on a rally car! The mind boggles as to what the service crew was thinking!

If the head is off the block and you haven't wedged it, then you are to late... THe only way forward is to remove the front timing cover etc.