Zedyone_kenobi

That is great advice. I think I may have some gasket material around here somewhere! But if not RTV may work fine as well. We will see. I have time to work on it. I finished painting my booster tonight a nice shade of semi gloss. I think it is going to clean up well.

You will FIRST have to disconnect all the cables. This is beneficial since it will teach you where they are and what condition they are in. then it is a matter of taking out the light above the slider controls, and then the two screws that hold in the panel. You will have to disconnect the knob on the fan switch as well. But it is pretty straight forward. And yes, I had already removed my 4th cable now shown in the picture, but good eye!

I believe that you never get hot air out of the round vents and the center ones. It either comes out of the floor or the defroster vents. The FSM describes in great detail where the air comes from and where it goes.

there are two small nuts that hold it onto the center console. You can feel for them. Just take your time and undo them and you can pick up the console and leave the choke mechanism behind.

You guys are lucky. We said we were going to cut back this year, but dayam... I got 2 packages of uncooked pasta 2 bottle of indian curry sauce a hand mixer some gummy candies That is it! Do you get the impression that people buy me what they want me to have instead of what I WANT me to have? So I ordered a bunch of stuff from MSA and a new Dewalt finish nail gun! Mua ha ha ha

Some great advice here. I will only add this: Know yourself and your limits. When I say limits, I mean time, money, and knowledge. I will talk these one at a time. Time: Be honest with how much time you will realistically have to work on this car Money: Know how much you can invest in the car every month. Establish a budget, and be realistic Knowledge: Know what you can do and what you cannot do. Also be aware of how much space you have, and how much you will need? I knew I was not a body man, so I had to spend extra when I got my 240 to find one with as close to perfect body as I could afford. I can fix mechanical things, they do not scare me. Know what you can do and what tools you have to do them. Good luck, and just be honest with yourself. In the end, you will be happier that way!

I do have a question though. Behind the master cylinder is diamond shaped bracket. Their are seals between the booster and that bracket and the bracket and the MC. Nobody seems to offer those anymore. Where can I get those?

UPDATE: I picked up my new (rebuilt) brake booster today. I am going to paint it semigloss when the weather is not as crappy and then get on with the swap. I also picked up a "new" decal for it from MSA today. Yippe. I went ahead and added the rear wheel bearings, seal, and nut while I was at it. There I go again, with the While I was at It's. haha FastWoman, thanks for the advice. I will do that. they are only offering me 20 bucks for the core. But I guess that is better than nothing. I am looking forward to seeing how they compare.

This is a pic of what the cables look like behind your controls. I have to get the FSM to tell you which goes where. I forget.

I will just chime in to support what Arne said. Using the stock body work does in fact limit you a tad. I had to switch down to the smaller 195/60 from a 205/60

UPDATE: the new rear wheel cylinder install went smoothly. No issue with dragging at all. Now I just ordered the master vac brake booster from Advance (120 bucks with 20 dollar Core! Not bad 91 dollars after core refund). It is a rebuilt one, and what I may do is keep my core, and just try to rebuild it once it is off the car. It would be a great learning experience. Zcurves. I will post pics when I get it. I have to get some semigloss paint and a good replica sticker for it now.

This is great news. I have been eyeing some of 15x7 libra styles for a while, but would like to see them on the car first...

I have reviewed the bearing replacement, and it seems relatively straight forward. If I need to pull the spindle, then I will get the tool. Some things are just worth it.

UPDATE: I like to keep my threads with an ending, so I did replace my driver side (LH) wheel cylinder this morning (with OEM one from Courtesy) and the scratching stopped. I adjusted it so it spins freely, but is tight as nails with the ebrake pulled. I am quite happy. Pedal is firm so I know I bled it correctly. (Just want to give a shout out for the inventor of the speed bleeder!) I will go on a test drive today, but I am sure things are as they should be. Now having said that. I did notice while I was messing with my hub while all the brake stuff was off, that I can feel it move slightly up and down. I cannot see it no matter how hard I try. To confirm, I left the car jacked up with the wheel off the ground. There is definite movement in the up and down (or was it in and out) direction. Nothing at all side to side (or front to back) Anyway as for the up and down (or in and out) this smells like worn bearings. It turns smooth as silk, so I am not sure.

Those are incredibly good looking on your ride, Kudos!

Ever get the feeling that the harder we try to keep our cars perfect, the most crap happens to them. Perhaps there is a life lesson here somewhere. We should not worry about minor imperfections and just enjoy the car as a whole... a ding here and a ding there can always be fixed at one time or another... Still sucks though

I was installing my driver side rear wheel cylinder yesterday and I had an accident. A small one but my gosh it makes your heart sink so low. I am a very careful and meticulous mechanic. Not sure why I was in a hurry, but I turned around from my work bench and a 10mm gear wrench slipped from hand and I counted the milliseconds as it tumbled end over end toward my pristine hood. My car rock chips here and there, it is not a concourse by any means, but it is a very clean driver. As that wrench hit my hood, man images flashed through my head. The Hindenburg burning, the first A-bomb tested in the desert, the first time I saw a pontiac Aztek. The sound a metal wrench makes on clear coat is just horrendous. Like a million fingernails being scratched on a chalkboard at once. I have a new chip on my car now. Luckily no dent, but if you have ever had am moment when you hear yourself saying NoOOOOOOoooooooooo!!! in slow motion this was it. :disappoin:disappoin:disappoin Why God, why!!

Man, I am so jealous of this build. Keep it up and please keep posting pictures.

I am not sure what year car you have, but I would say that perhaps you could forgo reusing the stock cam. If you would like to increase performance, you could easily just put a very mild +1 type of cam in there. You can get a cam kit from MSA or other reputable parts company. Or, if you are set on keeping the stock cam, what about a mild piston upgrade? If you like the attitude of the engine, but want more HP, then a MILD compression ratio jump would be nice. I would assume as part of his work he is going to clean and chase all the threads, flush out everything, etc. I also guess he knows to put in hardened valve seats so you can safely run unleaded gas. I would give the folks at www.advancedistributors.com a call. They recurved my dizzy and I love it. Also a nice rebuilt set of SU's would be sweet on that pretty new engine.

I am not saying he is trying to set a precedent, but if this car goes for 125k, it will set a precedent. I hope he recoups as much as he can. But I sadly do not think it is likely.

Peace guys, I agree with you on the fact that restomods are gaining value, I too watch barret jackson with quite some interest. But in general, an engine swapped Z has been worth much less than an all original showcase Z. There IS some logic that a VERY well done restomod (like this one) could elevate itself to the level of a pristine original example. I can buy that. I could even say a really great one could go higher than an all original. However, that is not what is happening. Hear me out. This car is trying to set a precedent that a restomod can be worth 4 times as much as a concourse original. It is like saying a slant 6 challenger made to look like a hemi cuda could be worth 4 times as much as the cuda. Look at what a concourse Z and jareds nice Z have in common. They have beautiful bodies that are probably better than the original, so that is a wash. The interiors are identical OEM perfection, so that is a wash. A concourse Z would probably fetch about 35k ish. So what we are trying to determine is if the engine, transmission and suspension in jareds car is worth 90000 dollars more than a pristine condition OEM engine, transmission, and suspension. Because everything else is a wash. How much is an RB engine worth? how much is a set of control arms and dif cover worth? how much are coil overs and rims worth. Rather how much more are they worth over the price of a stock part. A nice Rebello costs what 4500k What does a really nice RB cost? 6000? Not sure. You see what I am getting at. Look I am the first to admit that car is not worth just the sum of its parts...but I just think the 125k is on the north side of extreme.

SHe is nothing short of stunning. I hope I look that good when I am 40

I wish you the best Jared, I really do, but I would pay more for a stock 240Z than yours personally. If somebody sees the value of your car over other engine swapped Z's then you may get what you want. But you are looking for a VERY rare buyer with both the desire AND money to own the exact car YOU had built. Seems to be wanting the planets to align or something. Guess when it is sold and if we ever hear from the buyer we will hear how much it sold for.

What car do you have? Is it a 240Z? 280Z, let us know, also what suspension do you have? You post strange request. a 16x7 and 17x8.5 are not even in the same zip code much less ballpark. I am not sure a 17x8,5 will even fit on a 240Z without modifications. I could be wrong, that is waaaaay too much rim in my mind.

nope, already ordered the OEM part from courtesy. I am a stickler that way.