Zedyone_kenobi

I drove the car again for some pleasure cruising, and I can say I have absolutely NO flat spot or hesitation. Fixing the float levels did more than anything else did. The car drives wonderfully. I still do not know if my AFR is spot on as I was enjoying the drive and feel and sound so much I did not even take the gage out of the glovebox. But final jetting still needs to be verified, but I am darn close now, I may just leave it alone until I get these on my L28.

Okay, I spent all of 20 minutes installing this tonight. And at first I was worried that the depth would be an issue. Or rather the flatness of the wheel. However, that turned out not to be such a big deal, as the adapter to fit onto the Datsun column was about as deep as the wheel was, and the overall difference is about a half inch closer to the driver. What I was not prepared for was the small diameter. I thought 1 inch would not be noticeable, but my gosh it is. Perhaps it is the combination of the thickness and the diameter reduction, but I have to let it gel for a few weeks before I decide if I am going to leave it. I like it, and it feels great, but somehow a small part of me thinks it looks out of place...opinions? I am setting up the car for a 1000 mile rally right now in November and I thought this would make the ride more enjoyable... Keep in mind I just refinished my OEM wheel, and I think it looks brilliant.

Guys I am not going to swap diffs anytime soon. I am quickly approaching my budgetary limits. The Eiji motor, the new tranny, new clutch, new triples I really should start a new build thread My diff was not part of the plan Haha

have you ever thought of a career selling drugs? As you have the pressure sales pitch down! haha

I consider your words to be gold sir Consider a 240z clutch kit ordered

Man that is so true! Ha ha Also the term collar keeps getting used Is that the same thing I would call the sleeve which pushes the throw out bearing.

Well I fight with staying original and modifying my car all the time. I struggle to keep it as much a 71 Datsun as I can, as I like the personality. Truthfully, I chose the type B 4 speed unit for no other reason. My car is a 7/71, and they phased in the B types in that ballpark, as 72's probably started being manufactured around august or September if I had to guess. So I justified it to myself that I could still sort of pass this off as an original transmission to myself at least! Now as for brakes, YESSIR. I am am currently running the upgraded pads and shoes on my car, but I am most likely going to buy the 4 piston kit from MSA while I am rebuilding the whole front end. Remember all of this is to get ready for the TEXAS 1000 vintage rally. So 1000 miles of quick stops means that even though my current brakes and booster are new, having 4 pots in the front is never a bad idea. I am going to replace my hardened TC rod bushings with the other pivot ball kit MSA sells, and I will probably replace the tie rods and ball joints while I am at it. Might as well. So from what I am reading since I have a 240Z slave cylinder, 240Z clutch fork and 240Z master cylinder, I should just order a 240Z clutch kit (Thanks Diseazd). My slave is adjustable with the hole in the fork as Marty suggested. It has worked wonderfully, and is less than 2 years old as I just went through all of that. However, if I go with a 280Z 225mm clutch then I need to find a new clutch fork and slave cylinder. I am not running the stock flywheel, so I have no idea what thickness it is. But this is a good rules of thumb thread. RULES of THUMB for CLUTCH SELECTION Keep slave cylinder, clutch fork, and clutch collar matched to the clutch you want to use. Use a 225 mm coupe clutch kit for most applications unless you really need more grip and then you can upgrade to a 2+2 clutch

Okay, I am still confused guys. I am about to buy a clutch kit, and I find clutch kits for 240Z and 260Z with one part number, and clutch kits with 280Z with another part number. Then I hear that people run 240Z clutches with L28's. AAAAAAAHHHH too much info. I am putting an L28 with a Type B 4 speed in my Z. Now, I bought my Tranny form Z carsource, and it is a thing of beauty, but all I know is it is a B type form 72-79. I have no idea which car it came from. It could have been a 240z, a 260Z, or a 280z. So with that being said, I am not sure which clutch kit to buy. I am satisfied with a stock type of clutch. But should I buy a L28 clutch for a 280Z or a 280ZX. I hear some of you bought a 280ZX clutch kit. I have found those. Can I use my 240Z slave cylinder and clutch fork?

What a beauty frank! I cannot wait to see her in person!

I worked that launch! I miss my shuttles.

Your killing me Frank! I just bought a new rebuilt type B 4 speed from zcarsource! The day I have a 5 speed will probably be the day I trade the numbers 2-4-0 with 9-1-1

Initial test drive indicates my transition stumble has taken another progressive step to non existence. I drove it without even taking the AFR gage out of the glove box to see what I was running and I was very pleasantly surprised by the smoothness of the throttle. AFR results to come on Monday. But setting the float level definitely helps in getting the mains to come on sooner. Very happy I did this. Everything you read about tuning webers says Do the float levels first. Now I see why, the difference from factory set to dead on is substantial. The transition from progression circuits to mains is almost imperceptible. I think if I were to go down on my air corrector again, and then see what my AFR are, I will be in business, but for now, I will leave all alone until I get it on the highway to see what my 4th gear cruise AFR is.

Hey NASA employee here! I work for the government! I'm here to help! Hahaha

I would like to help out any way I can. I would be happy to donate

Travel'n man, Your car always makes me stop and look twice every single time I see it. You really did a great job!

Today I redid my cable linkage and set the floats to dead on 25 mm using my gage. Since I raised all of them (number 2 was actually low as well) I would imagine that my mains should come in sooner. I will also predict that I will probably be far richer at cruise as well. I will let you know how it is running Monday

I think my addiction comes from my inherent need to improve things. I have not added all my receipts and I dare not attempt it. But yes I have spent a bit but not as much as some (denial is what stage of addiction, I forget) I think my car and I are about average in the Z world. I am having a blast. A z is such a beautifully simple thing. I love working on it. I will try to get accurate measurements of my float levels tomorrow and report back. Anybody know how many times you can reuse float bowl gaskets?

What rear spoiler did you go with? When I repaint my Z I want to install a new rear spoiler... who did you go with?

Behold the Keith Franck Weber float measuring device! This goes into where the emulsion tubes go. All you do to check the real float level, is to remove the round jet cover, and then unscrew one of your main jet/emulsion tubes. You run the car and in bright light, you can slowly stick the end down into the hole. IF you look carefully, you can see the fuel come into contact with the tube as you stare at the end of the tube. Keith says to do this is bright light and he was right. I did this very quickly, and did not measure the distances, but my first carb (the one nearest the front of the car) showed the line on the tube several mm below the white sleeve meaning the fuel level was LOW. My second carb indicated contact with the fuel before the line ever came into view, indicating a HIGH fuel level. The third carb again indicated low, meaning the indicator line on the acrylic tube was below the white sleeve. This goes to show you that the factory settings are merely 'in the ball park' of right. Not at all the ideal 25mm from the top surface. Do not fret the double lines on the tube. The are just 25mm from either end, so it does matter which end you use. I like this method, and I will adjust my floats when I have a couple of hours to dedicate to the job. Great products here by Keith Franck.

Good Luck with the MOT! Please let us know what its like driving that Z over there. I have spent two weeks over in the mother land for two separate vacations, and both times, I wish I had my WRX or my Datsun there. The roads available are just brilliant!

Installed my 40 DCOE webers on the L24: Engine specifications 2.4 liters original motor/head/cam. Pertronix ignition Pertronix 1.5 Ohm coil MSA 6-2-1 headers adjusted idle mixture screws 1/2 turn out Adjusted all idle speed screws (without actuator rods hooked up) until they were about to uncover the first progression hole I had at my disposal, an wideband O2 gage installed into my header (innovative LM1) and a Air Sychronizer tool with weber air horn adapter (note, air horn adapter not shown) My factory out of the box settings for my 40 DCOE 151's were: 30mm venturi 130 main Fuel Jet 170 Air corrector F11 Emulsion tube 55F9 idle/slow running mixture jet Car would not start at all. It would run off of the gas put out by the accelerator pump, but would not stay running. I kept increasing the air fuel mixture (note NOT touching the idle speed screw at all) until the car would start and stay running. This ended up at 2.0 turns out from fully closed. At this point, you MUST let the car warm up to operating temp. After the car warmed up, I was getting an AFR of 10.1 on the LM1. Too Rich. Mr. Franck's of side draft central's white paper points out we should always aspire to 12.5 with our DCOE's. Well I managed to get it to be there running about 1.5 turns out from full close don the air fuel mixture. Car ran smoother like this as well. Initial drive was very promising. However, the dreaded flat spot did exist in the transition point between my third progression hole and when the main circuit came in. I dove back into the side draft central white paper, and a way of getting the main circuit to come in faster is to reduce the size of the air corrector. You see the air corrector is like a vacuum bleed off. In order for the main circuit to work, you have to get the column of liquid up the emulsion tube and down to the venturi. This is done by way of sensed vacuum from the engine. See 3rd picture on the left. The larger the air corrector the more engine vacuum is bled away and it takes more vacuum to pull the fluid up the emulsion tube chamber. Capillary action only gets you so far, and often the stumbling effect is the engine vacuum is too low to effectively make the transition from progression circuit to main. This should happen at about 1400 rpm according to Mr. Franck. Upon driving around I noticed that my part throttle, 4th gear, low rpm (2000 rpm) steady state cruise I was reading about 15.9:1. This is too lean, BUT I knew that running 130 main jets which are really a bit large for 400 cc of displacement I did not need to richen up the main jet. So instead I put in 160 Air Correctors,down from 170. I touched nothing else, and went for a drive. My flat spot on transition was greatly reduced and even eliminated in 1st gear. But was still present on all other gears. However the lean stumble was smaller and the main recovered quickly. I bet your wondering, Hey Zedyone, what about your floats? Well I am not going to change anything else until I check those. Let me make one thing clear, you should always check your floats BEFORE you do any tuning. The float level can drastically effect how and when your main circuit comes in, as a low float level will increase the distance the fuel has to travel up the emulsion tubes. I purchased the Keith Franck float measurement tool off side draft central webshop. I will be trying to see where I am this week. It would be foolish to spend any more money until I check the float levels. Also, not mentioned here, but I did check the air flow through the carbs for balance with my sync tool pictured above. Right off the bat with the engine warm, they were within 0.5 of each other on the tool. So I left them alone. If I wanted to change that, the only way to make fine tuning adjustments between the carbs is to adjust each idle speed screw located on the side of each carb. I did check balance on both barrels of each weber individually and the flow was identical on all three carbs. Weber does include a way to balance each barrel of one carb individually, but I figure that adjustment is probably to make up for some external imbalance, be it rings, seals, etc. If the butterflies on one carb are open the same, then the air flow should be the same. If they are different, there is an external reason. New webers the air flow should be identical. When I check my floats, I will post pics and report back.

I want to close this thread and end it, as they are installed and running. My review is complete as they are just a joy to own and drive. I can finally rev my car up without any issues whatsoever. The Weber carb is a joy to tune and drive with every thing having immediate and measurable results! I want to start a new thread on tuning, and tracking the results of changes.

Okay 160 air correctors installed and wow what a difference. My low RPM air/fuel ratio while cruising in 4th dropped from 15.8 to 14.1. Still a bit lean but the big story is my flat spot stumble at transition to the mains is 80% gone. Almost impossible to make happen as the main circuit is just right there ready to come in and take over when I need it. I will drive it a few days like this and decide if I want to run a 150 AC. I have no intentions on running a bigger main jet.

Odds are your carbs each have an idle speed screw that adjusts each carb independently of each other. You will need to resync the carbs carefully. Which from the sounds of it you may not know how to do. You need to find an article on setting mikuni carbs up for the first time and do that. It will require patience and a flowmeter.

Just to be sure not to confuse our friend, The US spec is 5 deg BTDC. What is called out in our manuals is 17 deg BDTC for european dizzies. If you look on the side of your dizzy and tell us the number stamped into the housing we could clear that up. But I do not think timing is your issue.