Zedyone_kenobi

I thought about that, but the problem is the corner valances are a perfect fit now' if I move them at all, its in the direction of badness I may try that though if my center piece is the same length as a stock part.

Well if you measure your center valance's length, and its the same as mine, then I have 'splaining to do.

This is my problem. With the two corner valances perfectly aligned with the wheel well and front of the scoop, I installed the center valance again. I got one side installed per print, the center support, but when it comes to the other side, I am about 1/2" to 3/4" too long. Anybody have a center valance that will fit a 71 240Z in good condition. You can HAVE my old front air dam.

Let me run out there and check Arne, I used the small hole in the bracket.

Update: The Z is coming back together slowly. I managed to take off early today to get some time with her, and installed the driver lower valance and the center valance. Pics below Its taking me forever, as I am cleaning all the threads and POR-15 anything that even appears like it has rust on it. My next POR job is inside the bumper as recommended. One question though. I always thought, the lower center valance was pretty flat. I have the one with the holes and retaining nuts attached to it as 26th Z described earlier. But it appears to curve more than I thought. Is it possible this is the wrong center valance? Arne, when installed how long horizontally is your center valance, as you have a 71 too correct? Disregard that drop of tranny fluid in the background I seriously think I have a european center valance, and I am betting its too wide for my car. If you look at this image posted earlier, you can see the center valance is straight to the corner valances, not curved like mine. Its also apparent it follows the bumper curve, which this does not appear to do. I am getting this sinking feeling I just payed 250 bucks to get a part painted, and its the wrong part. If this is in fact true, I may have to have a word with my vendor who sold me this as fitting a US built 71

All these old cars, if only they could talk, the stories they could tell.

Horseless carriage was awesome for me.

I sort of agree with Bruce here. 36 year old rubber is just that... 36 year old rubber, I don't really care if it was kept in a air conditioned garage for 36 years. Things dry out.

17,600 is a decent showing these days. I wonder what the reserve was.

just a side bar, I do hope he gets top dollar for it. I think the automatic will hold it back from that 19k asking price though.

Geebuz, that could be my car, right down to the ANSAs so thats what my car would look like without the front chin spoiler.

I actually want to change my vote to Miata as well. It has Many of the same characteristics of the Z, right down to copying the good European designs. I cant think of a better future collectible. It has all the right pieces there. And just for the record, yes, I do stare at my Z for untold minutes.

its better to run a narrower super sticky tire, than a fat less sticky tire. You did not say which general rule

Hey Ken B. thanks very much for the compliment. My Ansa is the muffler. They are not just tips. When you look at the ANSA threads here, you can see the ANSA is actually dual tipped packed mufflers. So that sound your hearing is a combo from my resonator to my ANSA. the 2.8 should still be able to breath well with a 2.5" header. If you find an ANSA with a 2.0" inlet, you can just neck down the pipe (a good muffler shop can do this) to a 2" toward the back. As exhaust gasses cool, they condense, and you really do not need 2.5" pipe all the way to the muffler. In fact, an argument could be made that necking down slightly helps keep the velocity up. I would say that with a 2.8 liter engine that is mostly stock, that is street driven, you will not leave ANY Horsepower on the table with a 2.5" that necks down to a 2". If you told me you were going to slap a big cam in your 2.8, and then run it at 5500-7000 rpm all day, then the story would change.

I am running 2.5" pipes from my MSA 6 into 2 into 1 2.5" header to my 12" resonator, then I neck down to 2" to my ANSA dual tip. Do not think that you need 2.5" all the way back on a 2.4L engine. The further back you get the smaller pipe you need. I love the way my car sounds and drives now. http://videos.streetfire.net/video/1971-240Z-with-vintage_205421.htm

The 240Z was a landmark car for the japanese imports. It came on the scene and really created a buzz in the market, and on the track. There are those who bought one and KNEW it was special and held on to it and kept it pristine. Question is, what car today is of that caliber. It has to be all of the following. New model, timeless design marketable for years racing pedigree possibilities The only car I can think of that may make waves is the new Hyundia Genesis Coupe... its a game changer car. It will change the way people view the Korean autos...Its breaking into racing, however small the scale, and it is a beautiful design. Oh and its affordable What else is there?

Its too late... haha, but that looks really nice.

Whether you did or not Arne, it looks just fantastic in your pictures!

You bring up an interesting point Carl, start from the center first, like applying vinyl decals, and work your way to the corners. Good point, and probably worth highlighting.

Perhaps I may be wrong, but isn't the E31 the head not the block? Just a nit.

Concur Arne. I just went and looked where my holes should be in my cross member. I did find two through holes, and one with a nut plate in back, but nothing regular. Arne, did you say you only bolted yours up to your lower valance panels, vs the radiator lower support. I have a little while to figure this out, as I have some POR work to do, but I am hoping by next weekend I can be bolting things back up. Plus I have the little dilemma of not having half the bolts I need. THe nut plates on the center valance and where the left and left and right valance attach to the bezel are a smaller hole than the nut plates I have going into the fender. So I need to figure out what size they are and pick up about 12. Then once I get all the valances mounted rigid, I can fit the spook. I have about a dozen soft jaws for when I make furniture I can use to hold it while I measure. I certainly appreciate your help.

THanks, I will post pics as I make progress... stay tuned, news at 11

One question, since I was in a rush, I did not have time to follow Arne's advice to do a trial fit and drill out the spook prior to paint. I sort of mocked it up, but realized there is no template for how the spook should be mounted. How far up or how far back should I mount it?

THanks! That is great info! My bumper is in really great condition, but a on ounce of prevention is worth its weight in gold right! Again, I really want to say I appreciate all the help this site has given me.

UPDATE: Today, with my relatives out of town and my little son sleeping, I managed to do some quick wrenching on the Z. I Managed to get the bumper off and the spoiler. It was, as expected easy. The tube socks on the bumper was a great idea. I forget who gave me that advice, but thanks VERY much! Now that I have all the front parts off, I am going to mix up a batch of POR-15 and hit a few minor blemishes I found that I have no intention on leaving alone. May as well, strike when the cars pants are down! Next the new valances go on and then its time to mount my new spook. Wow, its been a long road. Here is my progress... IF all this goes as well as I think it will, I may be selling my air dam.