7277

m4xwellmurd3: this should help. if it doesn't come through as a link, just type it into your browser... http://datsunzgarage.com/trans/

toss it all and clean her up.

simple directions: ..take the passender seat out.... lay on your back with your head and arms crammed in footwell with your legs on rear deck...after an hour or so, you'll be done

xcyter; just go to the local autoparts store and grab some 4W replacements of the same socket size....$2.49 for a two-pack. also you might want to leave the 3.4W ones in the turn signal indicator and e-brake holes. i find the 4W are a little BRIGHT for those spots, as they are dedicated holes for those particular bulbs.. my $0.02

mikewags...if you think $200 is high from MSA, think again...ask your custom upholstry man.....at least $500...maybe even $500 each seat!

Nissan...IMO, but since your local Nissan dealer isn't much help. try courtesy Nissan in Texas here the USA. i don't have thier link, but do a search. they're very helpful. also if you can get the part number for it (another search) then your local guy would probably get it for you. they just don't want to be bothered looking up the old part#'s on the old diagrams. fortunately, my local Nissan dealer is cool, and looks up stuff for me...one of the mechanics there is an old Z guy as well.. another Nissan dealer 20 miles from me doesn't do squat... so i know the feeling

simplest thing is just to replace all the rubber parts/mount/bushings/strap, etc with new OEM stuff...with urethane on crossmembers and mustache bar. like sblake01 mentioned, the cars were built well by Nissan. xray: awesome video!...it almost looks UTube-ish...i was kind of waiting for something to EXPLODE! LOL

Agreed

sorry oiluj, i stand corrected...they will be worth $50,000 USD....at the rate the USD is losing it's value, i wouldn't doubt it :(:(

oiluj: that's what we all thought 5 years ago...and 5 years before that...and 5 years before that....and 5.....:):) demoore: not sure about parts. reproduction parts for mustangs can't be that far off what Z parts are in Black Dragon or MSA catalogs....i would assume labor is the same if a shop does it

hey mike..no offense, but i think what you're trying to say is that in 1973 1.00 CAN$ = 1.00 US$ (not $4325) otherwise according to your chart you could buy a whole Z for 1 CAN$ !! otherwise that would be an heck of an exchange !!!!! :)

i don't know what a gold standard for Z's would be, as collector car values change all the time...but as a whole i think Z's are way under valued. afterall, what's the difference between a 2door mustang and a 2door Z? restoration costs are the same for each, or thereabouts.... original mustangs and original Z's share the same care and TLC over time as well.... not sure if Z's will ever get the respect they deserve (

.... i just threw out a set of 4 cylone 1's about a month ago . don't worry guys..they were thrashed with curb rash and dented. they're kind of a bi**ch to clean with all the tiny corners IMO

1. yes. 2. any number of a zillion aftermarket Z suppliers...search around (MSA, etc) good luck

yes. your 280z would benefit from a strut bar. some z's flex enough to crack the 1/4 panel to roof (weld) seam. should decide on installing front and rear strutbars, you will notice a slight improvement in body rigidity during cornering. yes. you will need to cut a slot in the seat belt retractor cover...how it looks is up to you.

i have American Collectors. i'm happy with them. although don't mention anything about 'track days'...they won't cover you if you wreck into the wall....i'm sure hagerty is the same

...guess i've been outta the loop on that one. i usually DVR races and probably fast forwarded through it....

was wondering if you guys have noticed the green 240 passing by in the beginning of a commercial that has been airing on Speedvision lately. the commercial features cars/minivans that have a '63' on the door....the 240 cruises by at the very beginning of the ad....)

bkelly, go for it. are you going to pull the motor out? it's a lot easier if you do. check my post 'engine bay refresh...on a budget', in the 'body and paint' section. all done and said i'll be damned if anyone could tell a difference weather a shop did mine, or doing it myself with rattle cans. do your prep correctly, follow the directions on the product your going to use, and use LOTS of wax and grease remover prior to painting. also, top off your color coat with clear coat to give it a good shine. good luck.

i know this is a little out there, BUT.... sometimes my fuel nozzles (the black 'Y' tube)stick in the 'down' (fully choked) position. when choke cables are pushed in the car runs like C-R-A-P...due to flooding. perhaps the excessive engine heat caused some sticking down there. when you get the car running pop the hood (choke cables pushed forward after warm up) and check that the nozzles are up tight against the bottom of the mixture knob...

another tip...when truning the engine by the crank bolt (26mm socket and 1/2 ratchet), remove your spark plugs to negate cylinder compression.... also. if you're doing all the valves. remove the loop springs (43.6b pic) that wrap around the valve adjusting/lock nuts all at once. do this JUST to crack the nuts free. then reinstall the springs for adjustment procedure. it makes it easier to get the wrenches in there...

is it the lower half of the thermostat shell?. the female threads? whatever the case, call danny's datsuns (541-430-1180) for a used one...he'll probably charge you $20 for the thing. as for heli coil...take it to a welder (he'll probably charge you $25) to fill the hole, then redrill/rethread.

i have a 280b version zx tranny in my 72. i use an MSA short throw shifter. although the tranny MUST be removed to grind down the ears where the hinge pin goes through. be careful fitting the new ears (included with the MSA shifter) as they need to be bolted on and aligned (test fit the shifter on the bench and fine-hone the ear fittment) before installing the transmission. i know you don't want to remove the trans, but that's THE WAY to do it... the only odd part is that i had to rotate the shifter boot 180deg around(so the shoelace is forward) because the shifter throw is in a more forward position....

unfortunately i agree with 240znz. don't me wrong, i love our USA and would give my life or my country, but after visiting europe in 2005, i came back and realized the amount we americans consume. not only gas but food and supplies for the 'Mcmansion' in the burbs, etc) it's pretty disgusting actually. most of the cars i saw in italy were very practical gas-sipping little things (Smart car, et al.). i came back here and truly so NO REASON for a 5'2" housewife to drive an H2 or similar. i've grown to hate gas guzzling cars. i do have to own a ford van for my business, and ONLY wished it got better mpg.... on topic though, i will always be in favor of classic cars, as they are limited use and preserve the history of the automobile....

...got it. $40 for a bolt!!!! hell with that....i just took off a 1/4" off the length of my stock bolt and made a custom washer out of ~1/8 plate steel. i did have to shave about .0001" off the key as it was too tight for the new damper groove, and kept ramping up into the main seal. after 3 attempts it fit just right..torqued down and seated just fine. thanks guys!