Oiluj

FWIW, I find it's usually younger drivers whose confidence exceeds their skills. This is supported by insurance rates. Insurers set rates based on statistics. Younger drivers have more accidents, which is why thier insurance rates are higher. I can tell you that when I was young, I often drove at, (and occasionally beyond), the limit of my skills. I was just "lucky" and never crashed a car. For *most* of us, as we age we become somewhat safer drivers. This is because over the years, people develop a better understanding of "actions vs. consequences". If driving behaviors end up costing too much money, smart people change their behavior... My 2 cents...

Nissanman beat me to it by about 15 minutes. Glass in my 72 is the same size.

If no one answers by tonite, I can measure mine when I get home. Keep in mind that the rear glass has a subtle curvature, so the graphic will need to be somewhat flexible.

I agree, the article is inaccurate and I wish they had gotten their facts straight. However, I think that as we see more articles in well known publications, the better it is for all of us as owners of classic Datsuns.

They look Great! I painted my 15" panasports last weekend. Gives me a hint at what mine will look like on my car when she's done. Here's a pic:

Congrats! Lime is a great color on early Z's. Have Fun!

Given those options, in order of priority my choices are: 1) Original Yellow (unless you really don't like the color) 2) Dark Metallic Blue. Looks amazing in the sun, but like silver, loses some of its "gleam" in shadow. But then I like em' best in White, Silver or Orange, so what do I know... Just my 2 cents.

Do the hood vents really work? I only ask because on my old MGA, high pressure developed by air piling-up on the windshield actually forced air "into" the cowl vents instead of air flowing out of the engine compartment. I realize the Z's aerodynamics are certainly different than the MG's.

The little bit of rust under the sound deadening pad on the driver's side floor pan was surface rust only. I was really relieved to see that no metal work is required. The body shop ground the surface rust off and is applying rust treatment and & sealer. He plans to spray the first undercoat and begin blocking the car next week. Don't have a picture of the paint panel he made, but will try to take a pic next week. The darker silver on silver looks really nice, but I want the stripe a bit lighter shade. He's going to re-spray it for my approval. Working with William, (William's Auto Body), has been a great experience Julio

I got my issue yesterday as well. Pretty nice write-ups and stories. It's making the rounds to the car guy at my wife's work, then to the guys where I work.

* Also, 220 HP is about the limit for the chassis without doing some stich welding if the frame and strut towers... Don't want to "pretzel" that nice chassis.

I'd take my time. Rushing and working tired increases the chance of mistakes and possibly scratching that new paint. You can always take it to the nationals next year after you've had time to deal with all the details... I have a target time frame to have mine done by October for a drive down to San Diego. But if it means "rushing" the re-assembly, I'll just fly down instead... Just my 2 cents...

The euro pond is the only place he'll he has a chance of getting $50k. The 1960 MGA I sold last year ended up in Holland...

Wow. Hope you heal quick and surgery is not required.

Does the flux capacitor still work? *grin*

That's my next door neighbor. She's original owner of a green, 1972 (automatic) 240. Paint is gone and it has a few minor dents. Other than the cracked dash, the tan interior is almost perfect. Get's driven maybe four to five times per year. When I first saw it, I made a gentle inquiry about her selling it. The answer was "No... It has too much sentimental value" After seeing what I've doing with mine, she's indicated she might be interested in paying me to fix-up hers.

Check the link in my post above. They stock the all the parts.

OK, dumb question time... I'm sizing an A/C system for my 240Z. Niether of my previous Z's had A/C, so I'm working a little in the dark. Both Vintage Air and Hot Rod Air have several different size condensers available, but the smallest is 12" x 20". That covers about 70% of the radiator's functional area. Without any previous knowledge to fall back on, that seems too big. What size were the condensers on the original "dealer installed" systems? Thanks in advance for your input. Julio

Welcome!

Great! Mine's still at least 4weeks away. Going to visit it at the body shop today..

The only real reason to have him do a 2.4 is to keep the matching #'s. That's what I'm doing. I'm ging with a stroke and mild cam with minimal head work on an E88. Should be around 200 HP.

FWIW, I plan to re-install my alluminum & vinyl dent strips. The car does not look as clean with them on, but it looks a lot better than a series of door dings in the paint. For those of us that live in crowded urban environments, we rarely have the opportunity to "pick" a safe parking spot, so for me, the protective strips are a requirement. There is a company that still sells the aluminum, vinyl & end parts. The vinyl is available in colors as well as black. Here's the link: http://www.customautotrim.com/products/moldings/rivet.htm.

If it's the metal strip w/ rubber insert, it's typically riveted on. If you remove it there will be holes along the side of your car. To remove it, you have to drill-out the rivet heads. If it's the other type, just get some automotive adhesive trim remover. Be sure to test in an unobtrusive spot to make certain it does not damage the paint.

Very Nice! I'm going with Eibach;s and 15" wheels. Hope mine sits that nice.

Know what you mean. Last two weeks it's been really nice during the work week and windy / cold on the weekends. Keeping me from doing varnish work the boat while I wait for my rolling chassis to get back from the body shop. This weekend is supposed to be warm and sunny here though. Hang in there! Good weather's coming.