Oiluj

"Most" of us 'mericans & our kids....*grin*_____Of course , I guess that don't count if you consider they's been eat'n imported fur'n food. Sorry, I just couldn't resist!

Sounds like a good candidate for a repro part! Once you make the die, they would be very cheap to make.

Being one of the "back pressure guys" in the poll, I'll give my thoughts... 1) As has been stated above, I think it's more an issue of semantics, not interpretation or analysis of technical data. 2) If "zero" back pressure is ideal, why have exhaust manifolds and exhaust systems at all? In fact, why don't all race cars have no exhaust systems? My understanding is that you can "tune" the exhaust system using a combination of variables to maintain flow to help "scavage" the exhaust gases to achieve optimal performance within a specific power band. Like most things, one size does not fit all. 3) Then there is the more "aesthetic" nature of the sound produced and personal preferences. For example, I want a more restrained exhaust note, and don't want my car to sound like a high school kid's car... That will affect the design and effieciency of my exhaust system. 4) Lastly, there's the local noise law issues...Moving violations anyone? From what I've seen, I believe there is as almost as much art as science to exhaust system design. Having performed fluid flow analysis in the past, I found that sometimes there are almost as many "assumptions" as known or predictive variables in the calculations. Just my 2 cents...

Sweet!

If you are not worried about originality, why not go with the larger 73-78 master vac? That's what I did. Requires drilling 4 holes in the firewall, but it provides more boost. Did that on my previous, (1971), Z and was happy with the result.

The ones I got from MSA are the correct metric thread and grade. Plus, I could just buy what was missing, not a whole set. The PO had replaced two with close SAE fasteners. I bought 4 to have a couple extras.

Installed my differential this morning. However, during the process, it slipped off the floor jack that was supporting it and smashed down onto my middle ring finger. It hurt a bit, but the nitrile glove I was wearing wasn't torn and I could still move the finger so I knew it wasn't broken. I went on to muscle the differential in place without using the floor jack and completed the installation. During the process I noticed some blood leaking from the glove onto my wrist. It was almost done, so I went ahead and completd the job. Afterwards, I took the glove off and found a pretty nasty, (and deep), flesh wound on the underside, middle pad of the finger. So I cleaned-up and drove over to the emergency room at the local hospital. I got home two hours and 4 stitches later. It will be a week before I can do any work on the car that requires stressing that finger... Oh well, guess I needed a break!

Also, verify the pads are clean. If not, spray them liberally with brakeclean and "very lightly" scuff them up with fine emery paper. Do it outside and don't breathe the dust.

Here's what I did... Here's a pic of the exhaust air tube plugs I got from McMaster-Carr. They are 1/4" BSPT hex head and I think they look pretty nice. Use a little high temp thread sealant when you install them. With that big hex head, I'll be able to remove them if required...

Congrats and welcome to the club!

Just an FYI. McMaster didn’t have the “exact” metric partially threaded bolt size for my half-shafts. And I wasn’t willing to pay $28 plus $12 shipping to ***dat on eBay for a set. So when ordering my new diff mount, I asked MSA about availability of half-shaft bolts. While they don’t show them in their catalog, they got me bolts for $1.80 each and nuts for $.80 each. Much lower cost! (and I only had to buy how many I needed, not a whole set). Just shows it does'nt hurt to ask...

Welcome! This site is inhabited by great people and contains a wealth of knowledge. I have found everyone to be extremely hepful in my restoration.

Yeah, But yours looks like a concours level restoration. Mine's not. Looks fantastic!

That's where mine ended up. $7,800. That included some body work and a custom stripe.

Will, The cloth is Interlude 166 Opal.

In 20 years my 240Z might be required to powered by hydrogen fuel cells, but hopefully it will be running!

Curses, Foiled Again! (while twirling my mustachio). Hmmm... Perhaps a light rub with fine bronze wool? That's worked for me before on varnish. I'll try a few things and let you know how it goes.

Thanks for the input! I'll check them out.

That's exactly what I'm planning to do. Would be done, but somewhere along the way I lost the center panel to my tailight finisher and had to buy one on eBay...

Time to put rubber on my new 15" wheels and get them on the car. I'm thinking of 205 x60x15". In this size there aren't too many performance choices, but the car will be lowered 1" and I don't want any rubbing problems associated with wider tires. I'd even consider scaling down to 195x65 tire. Bridgestone's RE-960AS Pole Position looks pretty good, but I'm wondering what other's can recommend. I'm looking for a good "dry" performance tire that will also work in the rain. No requirement for snow or ice. I want something that rides reasonably and is not noisy on the freeway. I like the look of a directional tread, but this is secondary. Yes, I know, I want it all... My usage will be street use, (no street racing), and the occasional "fun-run" autocross. Any insight you can share?

Don't know yet. I added .079" thick mineral filled EVA, (McMaster-Carr page 3427), in the doors and will also put it inside the rear side panels. It's what I used to replace the original sound insulation on the driver's side floor board. I've used it to deaden sound and vibration at work. Also, the neoprene closed cell foam bonded to the carpet seems to contibute more than I anticipated in damping out sound when the carpet is laid-down. Much better than I expected using a very unscientific "thump" test. Don't know if or what I'll use in place of the old horse-hair mats. Probably Dynamat or something similar. I'll see how it sounds without anything additional first.

My votes: 1st Choice: Factory Grey 2nd Choice: Gunmetal Metallic 3rd Chioce: Semi-Gloss Black 4th Choice: Body Silver (looks too "modern" for my taste...)

I think the Miata is a certainty, but unlikely to be highly "collectable" or recieve many honors because of the number built. Much like the Z but more so. The 90's Camero has a large following and the Viper will probably make it as well. There's probably a fair list of cars that could make the history books.

Thanks all, Like most things, the pics look better than the reality. It's definitely not show car quality, but should be nice for a driver. Will post more pics as I make progress.

What did I say? *confused look* Seriously, If I correctly understand who / what we are talking about, unless there was something happening in PM's, I don't think anything said was out-of-line. Blunt perhaps, but not out of line. I read "most" of the posts in question, but not all. My impression is that the issues were related more to the young lady's maturity and the age difference compared to those who frequently post on this site. To be more specific, I admit to finding the use of "texting" language on a BB to be slightly objectionable. Heck, if you read my posts, translating my "mis-types" is bad enough! I agree with Mike and think it is good that he remind us to maintain a minimum standard of behavior in our communications, especially since they are somewhat "anonymous" by virtue of the web. That said, I confess to possibly "Putting-Off" one of the female members when I first discovered this site. When the lady posted that she lived in my area, I suggested a casual meeting of Z owners in the area. (In a reply post, not a PM). I got the distinct impression she got the wrong idea. I re-read my posting and didn't see anything inappropriate, but then my wife occasionally tells me I'm clueless...