Oiluj

After readng the post indicating it needs the 200 ft-lb torque, I went back last night and torqued both down to spec. No significant change in rotational resistance noted. As a process check, I then removed the axle nut and inner hub to see of the rotational resistance was different from before. It was, but only very slightly, as the bearings have been driven onto the shaft into thier proper locations. Based on what I've read in this post, I'll go with the 200 in-lbs torque and check for excess heat after a few miles, then again after 100 miles. I'll finish-up tonite with the shafts and the rear disc brake install. BTW, the rear disc brakes installed easily, except that I had to "free" the frozen slide pins on one caliper.

Not acceptable. Get an RMA # and send it back. MSA is pretty good about returns. That said, I was not happy with the quality of the interior diamond vinyl kit I got from MSA, but decided not to send it back. Figure I'd just get another kit from their same vendor with the same problems. Went to the source and got the diamond pattern material and will cut & sew them myself.

I didn't use a fish scale, but did the same thing with a known weight hanginging from a stud. That's how I got the 4-5 in-lbs torque, (which semed high to me). I did figure the problem out. It's wasn't the bearings, but the seal on the inside of the hub. When I removed the inside rear hub, the rotational force was much lower. Turns out the new grease seal had a rough edge with molding flash, and the flash was creating a lot of drag. I gently ran some 1200 grit sandpaper to remove the flash, followed by some polish compound to clean-up the surface finish of the seal edge. (Learned this trick from a heavy equipment field mechanic). This appears to have solved the problem. Once that was done, I was able to adjust the axle nut to eliminate end-play and still have acceptable rotation force. I knew it had to be something simple, (or operator error). Got one hub done last night and plan to do the other tonite. Whew!

I also believe they have to machine a small clearance spot on the block for the valves, but I could be wrong...

Arne, Don't know if the Nissan parts are still available, but get many of my auto parts from a NAPA store just 4 blocks away from my house. At this point I'm thinking that 0.015" end play is probably better than high rotational resistance. Figure I'll try running them for a 100 miles or so to "break them in" and then see if I can re-adjust them to reduce the end play.

I appreciate the ideas, and a good point about axial pre-load like on a timken bearing. The rear bearings appear to be "offset" ball bearings. Also, I did check using calipers that the new bearings were the same thickness & OD as the old bearings. I did rotate both directions quite a bit. The assembly was in a relatively clean environment, (my garage), so no sand or grit to worry about. I'm also thinking it might be possible that the aftermarket bearings came from the factory with more "play" than the original bearings. Lastly, since I'm not yet satisfied, I haven't "peened" the nuts, so I can R&R the bearings if I have to...

I replaced the rear wheel bearings but am not satisfied with the results. I'm guessing it might be operator error... Before assembly I did a visual check on the bearing mount surfaces and verified that the axle bearing was well seated on the shaft prior to assembly. I tightened axle nuts down to spec, (200 ft-lbs), but both axles feel a bit "stiff" and do not rotate that freely. My manual gives a axle-nut torque spec of 181 to 239 ft-lbs, but also gives a "preload" spec of 3.9 in-lb. I'm assuming this 3.9 in-lb is the maximum rotational resistance? Torque required to (slowly) rotate the hub is at the upper limit of about 4 in-lbs, but feels too stiff to me. I packed the bearings with "black" disc brake wheel bearing grease, (what I already had in the garage). End play is almost non-existent, but if I loosen up the axle nut and lightly tap the axle end to remove a bit of bearing pre-load, end play increases to about 0.015", which is outside the 0.005" spec. At this end play, rotational resistance is about 2 in-lbs. Thing is, I can't seem to get a reasonable end-play less than 0.015" without it becoming "stiff". This seems to be it's "happy place". Any thoughts?

Nice install and good info!

Very Nice! As others have said, I really like the blue interior.

Have the information at home, (I'm at work), but here's my recollection. Rebello "Classic" L24 Upgrade. Keeps the matching numbers w/ no external differences changes. Complete rebuild. Bored & Stroked to 2.8L, (280 crank w/ 240 rods, larger pistons). All new externals, timing gear & oil pump.Everything new on the original E88 head. Combustion chambers tweaked, ported & polished w/ new stage 2 cam & valve train components.Carburation is 48 mm SU's w/ upsized needles.Stock intake & exhaust manifolds.Smog pump removed, but remaining smog parts intact.Tuning & cam info is chart. Does this answer your questions? I plan to install the engine in about two weeks, but it will be several months or more before the car will be ready to drive. Then after redoing the exhaust system, she'll be ready for the road. Should be fun ride!

Hi All, Finally scanned my Rebello "Classic" L24 Upgrade dyno chart and thought I'd share it.

Those are Brit carbs... Look identical to the ones on the MGA I sold.

Jim, Thanks for the input. I did mean an "adjustable" proportioning adjustable valve. I won't be tracking the car, just street driving and perhaps the occasional autocross. I'll let you know how it goes. Worse-comes-to-worse, If it's really too unbalanced, I can switch them out at a later date. . Rip, I did consider cutting off the backing plates until I saw how much play there was in the rear axles... Just a bit too much for my liking, so I figure with everything else I'm doing, it's best to at least inspect & repack the rear bearings or replace them. My plan at this point is to replace them. That being the case, it obviates the need for me to cut the plates off. It would have been soo much easier!

I installed the Toyota 4-piston calipers in front. They are an easy bolt-on. Got a ZX rear calipers/rotor kit on eBay. Rears will be installed soon as I complete the rear axle rebuild. Tough part is disassembling the rear axles to get the drum backing plates off. I'm making an axle plate to attach to a slide hammer this weekend... Should have the rears on in about two weeks, so I can tell you then how the install goes. Won't be able to tell you how they perform for several months when the car will be operational. Figure if I don't like the front/rear bias, I'll just add a proportioning valve.

I like the look of white Z's. How about a pearl white? Lexus as a nice shade.

Was in the San Diego area for the Miramar Air Show this weekend. On Sunday afternoon we saw a very clean, burgandy 240z on I-5. We were in my buddy's Honda Accord and it was moving a bit faster than traffic, so all we saw was the rear-quarter view. It cornered very well exiting the freeway... Was that anybody here? BTW, the air show was worth the trip. The Super Hornet demonstrations were performed with precision and the F-22 demo was amazing!

I'm interested in seeing the solution. I have the same front sway bar and am about to drop my enginge back into the car. My guess is that spacers under the mounts will easily solve this.

Guy, I found out I have what looks like a stage II cam, (480 lift / 268 duration), and a 9.8:1 compression ratio.

Based on your description, sounds like you should produce similar HP. My guess is your E-31 head will be comparable to my Rebello E88 "touring" head, especially with your more aggressive cam.(Think I have a stage one, but have to verify w/ Dave).Our compression "target" was 9.5:1, to allow use of mid-grade gas, but I told him 10:1 was OK.That's one of the follow-up questions I have for Dave.For my intended usage, 10 cents more per gallon for premium gas is not an big issue. What are you doing for the fuel system? My understanding is that the stock carbs are good to about 200 HP, and re-jetting can buy you a bit more. From what I've read is that beyond that, you need to upgrade.I'm sticking with the stock exhaust manifold, but going with 2" or 2-1/4" exhaust pipe. Dave gave me a larger downtube, (the one he used on the dyno), to help with the exhaust flow.

First, it's really not an L24 anymore, it's a L27...Anybody got a 270Z exterior badges? *grin* I really don't know the specifics of what they did. I provided Dave with a descripton of my budget, intended usage, and that I wanted more torque for drivability and the A/C. He discussed a few options, but after meeting with him, I was comfortable enough to just say "do what you do". I know that they reworked the combustion chambers, ported & polished the head, installed an upgraded cam, followers, etc. My guess is that it includes larger valves as well. I don't know if they shaved/shimmed the head. I do know the only original part on the head is the casting. The block was bored-out with new, (260/280?), crank. All external gear replaced, (water pump, fuel pump, etc). Carbs were re-jetted, (larger). I'm sure they also advanced the ignition a bit. One nice thing, unless you are racing or abuse the engine, they warranty their work. I have to call Dave this week and ask hm for some more info. Some of what they do is "proprietary", so don't expect too much.

I echo Beandip's comment. I'm glad you don't live near me with an un-muffled engine. An un-muffled engine is fine at the track, but not on the street. Having a decent muffler is not only a courtesy to others, almost everywhere it's a legal requirement. Just my 2 cents...

Made a 4' long reaction bar with some steel "U" channel. I used a 5' heavy pipe on my breaker bar as a "cheater" with a 27 mm impact socket to get more torque on the nuts. The "stubborn" nut took an estimate 700 ft-lbs of torque to break free. The other only about 500. This week I'll make a plate to mount on the axle flange so I can attach a slide hammer for removal the axle. Oh what fun!

Will, Sign me up for a 240-4speed emblem!

I'm no expert, but am with Conedodger on this one. I went with the Rebello 2.7 L upgrade not because I wanted more HP, but for the torque. More torque is better for low speed / street driving, and makes an S30 nicer to drive. I drove a friend's stroked Z years ago when I had my stock 240 and the difference was significant. High HP provides more performance at freeway speeds and on the track. If you plan to autocross, my guess is that higher torque will buy you more than the added HP... How about adding a turbo to a stroked engine... Now that would be Fun! Just my 2 cents.

Sorry to hear that. What a bummer!