Oiluj

This is nothing new, but might be helpful for someone who's never seen it. Had a washer slip and fall into a crevice and couldn't reach it and my magnet was too big to fish it out. So I use a thin, steel flathead screw as a magnetic extension for the magnet that could reach down into the crevice. In this case I ground off the sharp threads.threads to avoid scratching any paint.

Search the bad ebay seller threads...

The light flywheel will improve throttle response, but is worse for keeping a smooth idle if it's a street car. In my opinion, unless you are tracking the car or drag racing, it's not much of a benefit.

There is no circular nut. It's just stuck on. First, I'll echo DatsunZGuy, s comment. Give it a shot of penetrating lubricant front & back. Put something under the wheel to catth the drips. Next day, put the nut on the end of the shaft with some space between the wheel and the shaft end. Pull / work the wheel and at the same time have someone tap the back of the wheel with a piece of soft wood between the wheel and hammer. If that fails, then you do need a wheel puller. You can usually rent them at NAPA or most tool rental places. They have three arms with hooks and a central bolt that drives against the end of the steering wheel shaft. Measure the distance from the end of the shaft to the back of the wheel, as well as the wheel hub diameter to get the right size puller. Hope this helps.

I'm beginning to think ALL my tools are "dammit" tools...

As long as the tires don't hit the fenders, I think it's a matter of personal choice. Personally, I prefer the more "classic" look of 14" & 15" rims, and have 15" panasports on mine. However, it's quickly becoming difficult to find performance tires for wheels below 16". I fully expect to have to switch to 16" rims in a few years.

Pics, pics, pics!

I got the same banjo style lines with my mororsport kit.

To install the larger booster you will need to elongate the holes in the firewall. Not hard, but a bit of work.

Yeah, but I was really looking forward to driving her home. Guess my idea of 100% rust free isn't what others perceive...

Went to pick-up the new '72' Z today. Bad News. Car has evidence of rust, bubble under paint, on 3 of the quarters and bottom of driver's door. I don't want another major resto project, so no second 240Z. (at least not yet...).

Been fabricating my A/C lines and found no off-the-shelf ones of the required length. So I got a tubing expander and am making braze-on tube couplers. It took me 4 "practice" tries with extra tubing to get good joints, but I still ruined 1-1/2 tubes to make two good ones. I found that the "special for aluminum" flux did'nt help at all, in fact, it made it harder. I learned that the key is to make certain the surfaces to be joined are super clean. I used electrical contact cleaner, after fully abrading the surfaces with a S. Steel brush, (not carbon steel). The hard aluminum/silver solder flows fine, but the parts have to be very hot, just to the point where the heated surfaces start to look shiney. Now I need to make the big return line, but that's next week because I need to borrow a tubing bender capable of bending 5/8" OD soft aluminum tube. I'm mounting the compressor where the air pump used to be. To do this I hand fabricated adaptor mounts for the Sanden compressor out of 3/16" aluminum plate that mate-up to the existing air pump engine block bracket. It won't look like a fully professional job, but I don't think it will look that bad either. Pics to come when the under-hood work is complete.

Just drive it. Still enough power and a great car. Not really worth the effort to change it out or go to court.

Sounds like a faulty headlight switch or loose connector. Had a similar problem with my first Z. New column switch fixed it.

Congrats and welcome!

I saw that auction as well. Was interesting to hear the "muscle car" guys talking about the Z. From the comments, it sounds like one of them has a track Z.

Ditto on Ttiger's comment. Had the same problem on an MGA. Flush the cable housing with engine cleaner or solvent. Let it soak a day or so and repeat. Then blow-out with an air compressor. Relube the cable and re-install.

Probably works as advertised, but seems like a gimmick to me. No need for the electronics, just install a battery kill switch. A battery kill switch It does the same thing. And since you would have to open the hood with a kill switch, you will "see" if there is any connector corrosion.

Congrats on the Z and welcome! Guess I'll be the first to suggest you use the search feature on the website. It works pretty well for finding solutions to problems that have been covered in previous posts. You will find people on this site are very knowledgeable and helpful. Good luck with the Z !

Also nicely said Adam... When done, I'll have about $24K in my silver Z. So based on that, if the oragne Z sells in the high 20's, it's a pretty good buy considering the Rebello engine and other upgrades. Except for the fact that I wanted to build my Z the way I wanted, I'd buy it in a second...

Don't yet have any detailed pics yet. It's about 30 miles away, so I can drive it home, but have to wait till early next week to pick it up. Here's the basic stats: 1972 240Z__ White w/ Red__ Straight, clean body, only minor dings and older, serviceable paint.__ Mostly original interior, a bit worn and seat covers have tears. Dash has minor cracks. Stock drive train & suspension needing minor mechanical work, but driveable.__ When I told my wife I bought it, her response was:__ "Sweet!_His & Hers!" followed by:__"You need to make space in the garage."

Won't be able to pick it up for another 10 days, but will post pics after I get it home. This weekend I have to clean the garage to make space. It's certainly not perfect but mostly orginal. __Needs some minor body / bumper work, some seat covers and minor mechanicals. Just what I needed, another project when I have yet to finish my current Z ! __Actually, I plan to do the minor mechanical repairs and drive it while I finish the silver Z. Can't have too many Z's!

I'm torn on this one. The car would have been better left original as an investment, but the mods appear to have been done well and it's very nice... I think it will eventually sell for around $25 k, and it's a reasonable price for that car, given the cost to find and restore a less perfect example to that state.

Interesting. It's possible that the shifter was manufactured slightly "off" and that wear in the tranny finally got things to the point where it became a problem.

I drove a boxter recently, (non S version). While it handled well, it felt underpowered compared to our Z's. More e feeling of a lack of torque than anything. Have you driven an S2000? I think I'd take a used S2000 over a Boxter. Just one guy's opinion.