Oiluj

No harm, no foul. I'm used to seeing HP numbers given as crank HP, but you are correct that HP to the ground is important. My engine has plenty of usable power, yet the throttle is still linear and docile enough for street use. The Rebello 3.0 upgrade will give you 200 HP at the wheels, but I didn't go that route because it would have required frame stiffening.

Looks Good! Makes me knida wish I hadn't sold my MGA...

Here's my dyno sheet. Rebello 2.7 L "Classic" stroker upgrade, 10:1 compression, Rebello "touring" head mods w/ moderately aggressive stage 2 cam, , 2.5" exhaust and stock carbs with SM needles & Pertronix ignition. As you say, dyno sheets don't lie. Look at 5000 RPM. With the flat torque curve, it's very easy to drive on the street. Yes, it's measured at the crank. So when you calling Rebello?

Have one of those in-line for bleeding the 13 HP diesel in my small sailboat.

That's what I did. It wasn't cheap, but I'm glad I did it. Rebello did the 2.7 L stroker upgrade to my L24. Dyno'd at 212 HP / 200 ft-lbs on premium pump gas. It did lose the silky-smooth idle of the stock cam. It doesn't lope, just idles a bit rougher. Unless I mention it, most people just think that it's normal. Have to dis-agree. Mine is drives no differently than before on the street, and provides smooth, consistent power. The the torque-curve is quite flat. I did have a slight pinging problem, but finally figured-out I couldn't advance the timing past the stock spec with pump gas. A well done engine upgrade doesn't drive any differently enough to notice. It does get to be more work to drive when HP is increased so much that you need a performance clutch. Had a chance to drive a 280 with a race clutch and thought it would not be fun in traffic...

I think comparing a 240Z to a mid-80's 911 is comparing apples to oranges. As Arne said, there's a 14 year difference in technology, not to mention the different driving experence of a front vs. rear engine car. Where I diverge from someof you is that I don't really like the way earlier, (Pre-90's), Porsche's drive. I don't find the slightly side-ways pedal position to be comfortable. I do love their raw power, but found while auto-crossing one I didn't like their somewhat sudden transition into oversteer. I was able to control it, but it was a bit disconcerting. The 70's to very early 80's 911's can make a novice driver look pretty good, right up to the point they swap ends... My 240Z's handling seems much more linear and predicable, though it's probably not as fast because of the Porsche's higher HP. And to be fair, I recently drove a late 90's Porsche, and boy what a difference! Powerful, smooth and predicable. Very nice car!

That's just to-ooo pretty!

First, it's your car so do what looks good to you. Since youv'e asked, IMHO, I think silver paint looks best on a British roadster. All chrome looks a bit pretentious to my eye, but to each his own. At the Palo Alto meet, I once saw a chrome bumper MGB that had a chrome lip and the rest of the wheel silver painted with polished spokes. Looked pretty nice, but I'd be afaid to ask what they cost!

I had a similar problem with mine, as the car sat for too long. Had to replace the master and also had a sticky emergency switch block. Emergency switch had a bunch of crud built-up in it over the years.

I'd consider using steel pop-rivets and install new carpet tabs. Tabs would be easy to make in your garage with normal home tools. No carpet modification required. Same hole thru the floor issue, but at least it's all steel-to-steel contact. Paint the hole edges before riveting, then paint both above and below wiith rust preventative paint. Cover-up the rivets underneath with rubberized undercoat to further seal and protect the area.

She will come out looking like new. Worth the work and wait...

Replaced them in my current and previous 240z and never saw that much fluid. Maybe check the fluid level? Was the tranny hot and possibly fluid expansion? I'm sure someone will have the correct answer...

You mean you guys have been grading on spelling & grammer? No hope for me then, as I'm an engineer...

Can't go wrong with Les. Good quality parts and he stands behind his products.

I've got a couple. On is in good, usable condition, the other not so much.

Are you looking for new panels, or are some used panels "with a bit of character" an option?

Here's another possibility. Probably not an exact match. http://www.eastwood.com/camel-interior-paint-aerosol-12oz-net.html

Congrats to the new "Sheriff", Welcome!

Solution 1: If you have an un-faded area, a body shop can match the paint. Cost will vary w/ body shop. Solution 2: ColorBond will custom mix vinyl spray paint, but it's expensive. Solution 3: Les Cannady will make custom color replacement panels, but it's even more expensive. Solution 4: SEM and Colorbond sell similar, but not exact color match paint in spray cans.

I'm torn on this one. The 240 is the obvious choice for a father-son project, and will have better long-term value. However, I agree that an S30 Z is not a good 1st car for a teenage boy, no matter how responsible, he will be tempted to push it... Perhaps the best choice is to do the 240 as a project, and get him a more modern, safer car to drive till he's older. Nice 240 Z's are getting harder to find, and as has been stated, lack the safety features of more modern cars.

More importantly, to quote Monty Python: "How fast can a swallow fly?"

To eliminate the steel-on-steel contact, why not just wrap the rod where the clip touches with clear tape?

Did you try Rock Auto. I haven't looked at pads for my Z yet, (same 4x4 calipers), but they even stocked had graphite-ceramic pads for my 97' ES300 when I did the brakes late last year.

Found one once with several hundred dollars. Contacted owner and sent it to him fully intact. Lost mine a few years later, and got it back same way. Karma... Sent person who found it a Hickory Farms basket as a thank you.

I'm with Arne. HID lights, (especially in non-HID designed applications), tend to blind other drivers. Good H4 lights with a relay harness put out more than adequate light.