Cutlass372

^^ Look up 2 fast 2 Z, I think maybe you were typing after I posted.

I took out the BR and made another wire with 2 male ends to connect them together. Is this right? Also where does the condensor near the coil go? On the positive or negative and do I really need it? I should take some pictures or something so you can see what I did.. I just cant seem to find the cord for my camera...

Thanks, I figured it out while waiting. The timing was almost fully retarded, so I advanced it a little at a time and It wanted to be fully advanced. I got it to rev to like 6k in neutral and 5.5-6k under load, but it still doesn't rev freely through its range. Where should I look now? I still have the condensors hooked up, so maybe I should take them off? What do you suggest?

How do i do that? I'm not very used to these cars. I know the cap doesn't spin so do I spin the dizzy?

No, it does not rev past 4500. As it reaches 4500 it surges like its hitting a rev limiter and then backfires.

Hey everyone, I just installed the Pertronix ignitor and flamethrower coil on my 72 240z. Everything was running ok before I replaced the ignitor and now it wont rev past 4k. I haven't checked the timing yet, but I dont think that would be far off as it was running ok earlier. When it hits 4 to 4.5k its like it hits a rev limiter and backfires. I disconnected the BR and put a wire in between the 2 that were coming off it (with 2 male connectors). Everything else is still connected like the condensor and stuff. Where do I look? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Elliot.

Hey, I just replaced my clutch master cylinder and now the clutch fork is moving in the wrong direction.. The part number for the cylinder is correct with what It shows i need.. What would be causing this problem? Also, there is only about 1-2 inches of clutch off the floor. Its like the rod isnt long enough?? What is this!? 72 240z Stock with a 4 speed from another 240z (everything worked with the old MC)

Hey everyone, I just replaced my ball joints and tie rod ends. When I shake the passanger wheel at 12 and 6 there is still a little play, but no movement in the ball joint. Would this be wheel bearings or something? I read about the spindle being worn or the hub out of round, but I'm not quite sure. It is only minimal play, but play none the less. What should I look into? I need to get this resolved before I go in for inspection. What do you think? Thanks, Elliot

I don't really recall what I said that I wanted. It's a Felpro gasket though so its probably a header gasket, there is no metal around the ports. I think the 2nd gasket may be causing a problem as well, but I don't know if I want to go through the trouble of taking it all off again... Hopefully I can just get them to go away with tightening the bolts down more. I thought the standard was to use 2 gaskets on headers, but I guess not.. Ughh I hope I can get them tight and not have to take them off.. Such a PITA...

I think it might be a leak as well. I used 2 gaskets so maybe that has something to do with it as well. I will have to try out what you said, it seems like that might help. I hope that I didn't strip out one of the bolts because I did tighten them pretty tight and as I was tightening one started to get loose . I think I should be able to tighten down most of the bolts and get the majority of the leaks to go away. We will see how it goes.

I have never checked the clearances and the motor did tick before I put the headers on. I think a large majority of the ticking is a header leak though. The nuts that are used to tighten down both the intake and exhaust are really hard to tighten. Someone told me to try a deep socket and a universal so I'm going to try that when I get home. Thanks for the compliments, I think the exhaust sounds pretty good and better in person. The fitment wasn't very bad as well and don't hang as low as I thought. The only problem is cutting the rear valance to fit the exhaust.

Here is the video as promised. Sorry you can't see **** till I turn the lights on, I had to wait till the batteries in the camera charged. It was kinda cold when I started it so thats why it sounds wierd at first. I dont think this video really does the exhaust justice but.. atleast it will give you guys some idea.

Hey everyone, I just received my MSA Twice Pipes today and thought I would post some pics. The pipes seem to be of pretty good quality, all the welds seem nice and the pipes were fairly easy to slide together. I plan to install the pipes within the next few days, but I need to find time to get to Napa to pick up my headers gaskets. My total came to $200 and included the Twice pipes and a set of intake and exhaust studs and nuts. This thing looks like its going to be pretty loud, so we will see how it goes. I will try and get some videos up once the pipes are on, I know videos may persuade some of you guys to go this route as well. It's going on a stock rebuilt L24 with twin Su carbs. Pretty much a normal stock install with 3-2 headers. I'll let you know how it goes.

Still no update Hopefully we can all hear them sometime soon. Let us know how it goes.

Any update? Can't wait to hear it!

Let me know how everything works out, I have been looking at this system for awhile. Apparently the fit isn't so bad on the 240z, it seems to be more of a problem with the 280z. If you have the mechanical know-how, it should be fairly easy to install in a couple hours in your garage. Make sure when your done that you post up a good sound clip, I'm interested in hearing how it sounds.

I have this same exact problem... The car seems to run fine at idle, but then once you start to drive at higher rpms the motor will buck/hesitate like the clutch is slipping. It used to do this much worse, but has slowly gotten better over time. I think i'm going to check my coil and sand my points a little bit to see if that helps any. I'll know after that if i can check something else or if that is actually the cause. I hope you figure out the problem because it is bothering me too. Please let us know if you find out any other information Edit: Also, the choke doesn't make the problem completely go away. It does seem to help though sometimes. If the car is acting up I will usually pull the choke a little bit. Thanks, Elliot.

Hey, sent you a Pm. Could you post some more pics of the 245/50/16 set up? im interested in seeing the whole car. Edit: Also... I think if I was to go with a Rota Rb 16X8 +4 with a 245/50/16 the tires would stick out more then yours because yours are +0 (Yes?) This stuff is sort of frustrating for me because I'm not able to test fit stuff and there aren't many members near me to check stuff out. I don't really want to run fender flares so the wheel/tire combo needs to pass inspection (I also have fiberglass rear 1/4 panels so fender rolling isn't an option. ARRG!

^^ That fitment looks perfect, how do you like the tokico springs and struts? Im thinking about going with a spring/strut combo, but i'm not sure if thier springs will be stiff enough for my tastes. I'm looking for a like 200-225 front/250 rear. On topic tho, I plan on going with 16X8 Rota Rb's with 225-245/40-45/16. These should be perfect for a lowered or stock height car. PS: What color white is that, it looks like just what im looking for.

Anyone have any pictures or videos of a modified twice pipe system (True 2 pipes all the way back)? I would love to hear/see it.

Anyone else have any info on this system or even one for sale? I am also interested in this and looking for more opinions.

I'm having a similiar problem. The car sort of like.. bucks like the clutch is slipping it seems. The car makes lots of noise and revs to 6k, but it doesnt seem like it keeps pulling. I haven't tuned the carbs or anything but I did remove some of the smog stuff and it seems to run a little better except for idling is a little rough sometimes. Anyone know what the cures are?

I adjusted it, shouldn't it be like a few turns off from touching? The ball fits as it should as well. I just don't know exactly where it should be. The gears engage fine, but as stated before I had to adjust my clutch all the way out for it to work like that. I need to replace the fluid and go from there.

My pin is adjustable, it just doesn't have the hole for the spring from what I remember. I'm pretty sure the fork has a hole that the original spring was attached too, but i'm not positive. It had to attach somewhere..