TomoHawk

For the common vintage stuff, the Hemmings catalog and periodicals are very useful. Otherwise, I commonly see the metal valve-extractor caps at the AP store, which is why the suggestion for buying "valve caps" a the AP store was made (because the person replying didn't really understand you wanted the OLD-style ones.) I usually buy the ones with the chrome sleeve and the dinky hromed cap for local use/show. FWIW, I remember seeing these all the time way back in the 70s. I remember the guys tossing the rubber parts because they were annoying and occasionally fell off anyway, so the other 2 or 3 came off so they all matched. Back then, if you had a few of the valve-extrator caps, they weren't there for long, if you parked the car much in public places...

You can buy those separately. See you Nissan dealer, or check the parts suppliers. Also check that the bal-bearings inside and the frame that hold them is in good condition.

Does it matter which ground hole you use on the module?

On the 1978, the blue wire is for the tachometer and ECU stuff, and the black-white one is +12V

I was just wondering if anyone can tell us, what would or might happen if you only discconected the ignition box and didn't disconnect any of the wires from the ignition coil?

For reference, I will submit what the expert on HybridZ said about using this diagnising gadget:

You should also read the turbo-swap installation stuff on HybridZ. They have an evening group in the chatroom every night, and you could probably get most of your initial questions answered quickly.

In the second photo, the wires are coming out where the vacuum line for the ventilation controls should be. It doesn't looks like those wires are colored (they look white) so I would say that they are something that the PO put in. Follow them inside to see what they connet to.

On my 280Z, You must detach the lock latch and lamp before you can pull the glovebox out. I think that's what the OP means by it came out just fine once I figured out how to fold the top down so it would come out

Higuys, ox I was at the JY getting an Altima relay box, and I noticed that the battery cables didn't have the usual thick lead battery post clamps. It had a kind of round strap. Further, the one I saw had a knurled nut and a kind of a black plastic quick-release handle! I thought it was really cool looking and would be nice if you remove your battery every fall (no more stripped clamps and no wrench needed.) Both of the clamps also had two taps for extra, smaller wires (two on the negative and two on the positive) that you could remove by pressing a release button, which would be nice for those headlamp relays, radiator fans, or what-not. The negative cable has grounding tab mid-way on the cable, and I think it would be in the right position to attach to the firewall ground screw (on a 280Z, and probably other S30s.) I will need to make measurements of my car and the Altima. It just happened to be rusty, so I didn't take it off- not for $6 each. I didn't see any plastic covers. Maybe they were lost or came out with the battery. Is anyone familiar with that kind of cable or clamp, and is there a formal name for the clamp? It wouldn't really be period-correct for an S30, but it would be more compact and serviceable, and cool-looking.

I have the one on my 280Z flashing about once a second, but the other side is noticeably faster, almost twice a second.

I got very nice, new-looking set from eBay, and I keep it and a few other similar things, in a velvet-lined steel box

Well, I spent the time to connect the extension wire and connect the corrector box, and I did drive the car around the block twice (a few miles each.) I went through a quick pre-check in the driveway, trying the different ranges, and the different resistance extremes. At each stop sign or traffic light, I changed the resistance, then try an acceleration test. It was very hard to tell if the thing was 'pulling hard' compared to the uncorrected system. I think that I would have to say that just a small amount of added resistance gave the bet improvement, though it would be hard to say, since I was not able to get any real, quantifiable data to compare. The acceleration test itself is so informal that you could even say that no added resistance gave the best "feel." I didn't have time to try a test on the highway. I did note that too much added resistance caused the engine to stumble a little, though it happened at a long red light, so it wasn't a dangerous thing. A better way to test for the right amount (if any) of added resistance would be a very good thing. I will have to inquire with the person who invented the resistance box to see how he used it. It also occurred to me that other things like the ignition timing and the AFM setup could have some effect that makes things feel better or worse... But at least there is this cute little box in the car with a label that has in big letters, "POWA!" which ought to impress some people.

I have an Android tablet PC with GPS and a good G-sensor. Maybe I can use one of those dyno applications with this "POWA" box make a Come to think ofit, I'll have big POWA decal to put on the box too

For sure. My first car as a 1985 1/2 Escort, which was the last one made with a carburetor. With the 1986 model, Ford had EFI installed.I should've waited a few months more, for a totally different headache!

Please tell us more about how you got your final value using the driving by feel method? I think it would also be important to see what resistance works bets with long-distance driving, which is what I do. Perhaps there is a way to set up a correction box for both situations?

That's what is so nice about the electronic distributors; you don't have to be fiddling with them or be conscious about the coil/condenser/ballast you have installed. It's got a few week spots too, IMO.

In any case, the question was how to use the corrector box and figure out if your ECU was drifting. How much is just a matter of measuring the resistance you added.

Didn't Herr Dr. Bosch pass away in 1942? That's 32 years before the 6805 was invented. If you have a wealth of useful information on how to improve the L-Jetronic Fuel Injection system, please share it.

Thanks, but it's odd that there is is only the one type at Autozone. Usually you see lots, all for new vehicles. I will look into it, although it is a special order item- no store in the area has it. ZedHead- nope. I try to keep it all stock, as Mr. K designed it

Perhaps Wade knows how you can re-program the L-Jetronic system, or where the memory chips are, and how you can alter what's on those too?

It was rusty and about 10 years old. I just put on a new coil, so we usually did the condenser too. Comw to think of it, somebody told me to get one a Radio Shack...

A photo..

I went to the local AP store (Advance Auto) to get a new condenser for the ignition system, and after fooling with the computer, the sales guy tells me there isn't one for my engine or any old vehicle. I looked up myself on the company's website and found one that looks like what is on my engine, and again the sales guy says there aren't any, when I give him the part# I wrote down. Even MSA and BD don't seem to have them, unless you own a 240Z, and you can get a condenser with a set of points. Finally, he found one. Then he tells me they don't carry parts for old cars because it doesn't make "good business sense."So now all those old classic cars you see at car shows and cruise-ins will be relegated to the trash pile, thanks, probably, to some guy in a suit that only wants to make money by selling what's 'in demand' buy today's new vehicles. So are there any specifics you need to know about finding and buying an ignition coil condenser for a 280Z? AFAICT, they are basically all the same.

The L-Jet EFI isn't a digital EFI system,without any "chip" or "programming," so none of that will happen. Any resistance you add to the sensor circuit is permanent unless you remove it. Also, it's not intended as as a 'go fast" device. It's simply a way to correct the aging electronics so the engine gets the amount of fuel it's supposed to. My box is just a simple Altoids box with a short pair of wires coming out of the side. You plug it in and leave it on top of the intake manifold, though you could extend the wires to the driver's area.