TomoHawk

I learned about the BCDD diagnostic connector from my wiring diagram, and it's in the FSM, emmisions controls section, pp. EC 6- . It shows how to test the system. On my wiring diagram the B wire goes to gnd, the WB goes to the speedo, and the LW goes to the (dome light? ) (just a live power source,) but wouldn't an ignition circuit be better? The engineer probably couldn't find an ignition circut that wasn't already fully loaded. There's no reason to have power to that solenoid with the engine off, IMO. I'd rather replace the BVDD with a plate.

Enrique, remember this car is a '77. In the third picture, if that connector with the plastic plug is near the junction for the distributor (the blask plastic thing with the two nuts), then that's a diagnostic connector for an emmissions device and doesn't connect to anything else to worry about.

A guy down my street has a 1957 Corvette...

Chevrolet made a number of vehicles in 1957. I don't see why people can't just say which one. I see them at car shows all the time. Mine was a "1964 Ferrari." How's that for ambiguity?

A 1957 Chevy what?

Contact Tommy at Vines Auto http://www.vinesauto.com/ He has a 280Z that he did a total connector replacement on using BMW connectors. I bought an entire fuel injectiion harness from there for $25 and I stuill have enough connectors to do the job over again. All the connectors were the quick-release type. things that are important to get wired correctly, in reference to the ECU are the temperature sensors, AFM, and TPS. thxZ

The first one sounds like an old worn-out chainsaw engine. :cheeky:

Sorry Frank, No slideshow, or video on my end. O-L

The link in post #4 isn't for a video.

there wasn't any video at that address.

I'm curious. How did you com up with the term "ghettoness " and/or what does it mean? thxZ

I saw a TV commercial on the movie, and the debut date is: May 9!

MO, it's the sound of a 12 cylinder short-stroke engine.

The ECU isn't responsible for turning on the fuel pump (I think.) The fuel pump is controlled by the EFI relays, the ignition switch and a set of contats ( like a snap switch) in the AFM. Get a copy of the 280Z fuel injection book (bible;) there is a section on the fuel pump relay (bible)

About 100 billion dollars :lick:, but you could get it more cheaply by building a time machine, and going back to 1977 to get a new one, an hopefully about 50 dozen for the rest of us. That means new ones aren't available, but you might get a used one from a salvage yard or another owner with a parts car or cache. It depends on what your goal for the car is. If you want to restore it to oem or stock condition, you'll have a tougher time getting 'good/new condition' parts. To make it just work again, you can splice in the same parts in 'OK condition' or put in the 'upgrade' parts. Either way, like Will says, try to keep the circuits the same as the manufacturer designed, so the car will be servicable later on.

From the first post, the one fusible link bracket (the one that's not so obviously melted) looks like it might be reattached if you could Goop the metal bracket back on. GOOP is that good & strong! The other one looks too well gone. Not to mention a whole LOT of scrubbing, rubber & vinyl treatments, some re-taping, relabeling and other maintenance. (cue "Bruce Almighty.") thxZ

You really should stick with the fusible links on that car, although the connectors look pretty bad. I'm surprised that it didn't catch fire from trying to run all that much current through "alligator clips?" He (PO) could've at least used spade connectors. Never use wires in place of fuses. I think that you could consider the fuse link conversion (http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html ) That one little black thing below/behind the glovebox is the tachometer resistor. (pg BE-5 of the FSM)

He did my sunvisors, and they look a TON better than the cheap plastic oem stuff! thxZ

Great. In the meantime, get some books au the library or hang with some audio dudes and learn all about what you need ( which costs nothing)

That looks like just a wire shunt going into the cabin (or wherever.) The only fusible links on the 280Z (mine is a '78) are the ones that are mounted on the relay box, as in post #3 (2 green), and the other four usual ones (3 red & 1 blk.) It looks like you have a lot of extra wires going to the battery. Are those really needed? The stock system only has the two heavy wires for ground & the starter, and one smaller wire on the (+) side to power the smaller electrical stuff. thxZ

Which fuse link was melted/burned? You must have one hell of an aplifier or stereo to bedrawing enough current to melt a fuse link, which could be anywhere from 25 to 50 Amps. Did you burn up your wiring too?

Which radio or amplifier is in the car? I've used home stereo speakers on car stereos before, but the stereo was made

I just leave the windows down & drive fast to a show, instead of vacuuming :lick: Hopefully more dust ges out the window than comes in.

Never mind, I went back to the wiring diagram, and it shows two fusible links connected to the battery with blue wires that go to the Fuel Injection relay. The FSM and other resources I've read only show one fusible link. So what I have is correct, but needs to be re-wrapped, or cleaned up, or whatever, and I will look into the "missing" blue wire. thxZ

The red wire is the battery wire, which isn't connected right now, so just ignore that. The thin red wire seems to be unwrapped, and can be corrected. What are those two fusible links used for? thxZ