TomoHawk

I got the flanged bushings at the local hardware store. I measured the roller pin on the hinge for the I.D. of the bushing, then got two so they nested together to make a big roller, which wasn't the correct diameter, but it works. I glued them together and greased the roller pin and got the improvised roller on. Don't make it a tight fit that you need to use a hammer to get it on. It's supposed to roll! To install the roller, I used a big regular screwdriver (or a long pry bar) to push on the detent arm/spring so you can just put the roller on the pin. I used the flanged bushing so it wouldn't pop off like the original one did.

I was thinking of using button-head bolts with hex holes. they would have to be chrome or polished stainless steel.

My driver's side roller was missing when I got the car, so I substituted flanged bronze bushings. I have one inside the other so it's about the same diameter as the roller. I'll get a new roller made, but in the meantime the bronze bushings are working.

Look up the interchange for the part. Maybe it's the 510 iron drums that are the less expensive but easier way to go. IMO, when you mention Z, the sales guys start seeing big $$$ and you pay extra for "sportscar parts."

In 1959, Mr. K came to the U.S. to get Datsun/Nissan going, and you should here his comments on how the Datsuns were comparing to the cars on the American roads at the time. He made remarks on how he communicated to HQ about how the (fairlady) should be equipped. It's in the video about the history of the Z,and probably in his book to.

I'm not too keen on Ohotoshop, but maybe someone here is, and would give it a go, to perfect the graphic.

We did get it to go 110 MPH at 5500 RPM on a dynamometer last summer. Anyway... this topic is about the Datsun graphic, of which was made 4 copies, about 12 x 20 inches overall on adhesive-backed vinyl, and I'll stick it on some magnetic sheet stock soon.

Yeah, I back-calculated the figures to recover the 35 years of use... others are to keep in-line with all the opinions/memories I'm given. the stuff at the top, Mr. K's autograph, and the wheelbase are correct, AFAIK.

Sorry, but all the local printers just do small signs using some cheap graphic software. The one I used actually tried to recreate the logo himself but 'couldn't find the right font' so I insisted he just go withthe graphic I provided, which is what I wanted in the first place If you want Flexisign, you gotta go downtown to the places where they make the old-fashioned billboards. If you try someplace like the OfficeMax cop/Print center, you're on your own, as they only accept finallized documents like PDF files, because they don't want to mess with things themselves- just print what you give them. This is what I did to make a 20x 22 inch Display sign (below) for the car. I was able to put together a graphic which turned out OK. It's an EPS (photoshop) vector file, so it should scale well. Uncompress the attached zip file and there you go. Datsun_logo.zip

Mine hasn't had the chrome since I got it.

Yours did turn out really nice, but on the 280Z, those strips are much narrower, so it ought to be less noticeable to the average spectator. So I think I'll look into the paint pen idea.

You would have to build a time machine to go back to the 60s with the 'secret formulas' for all that stuff, like the UV-stable plastics, superior engine and body design, non-corroding steel alloys, and show them your perfectly-average American physique for measurement, then convince the tightwad execs to spend the extra money to modify their 'already proven' engineering. practices. While you're at it, get the real scoop on who did what in the design of the marque. You might even bring back some low (zero) mile examples of the 240Z, in perfect factory-new condition!

There is an upgrade to the OEM fan, and that graphic from Blue makes me wonder if you could use all 4 outlets (the two defrosters, and the two dash vents) to defrost a larger part of the windscreen.

How would it work on the chrome door panel strips? That's the only thing you can't paint with a gun.

How about using common parts from other manufacturers (like our check valve, or how ford/Chevy does with the brakes & driveline parts) so that replacement parts will always be available, ensuring a long-lasting history of the marque. I can understand how you feel. I'm not short, but I have to put the seat forward to get a good push on the brake and gas pedals, but then the steering wheel is close in to your chest.

I think everything is just great on (my model) car. The EFI system is serviceable without a special digital interface, EPROM programmer or computer, as is the rest of everything under the hood or the car, and you don't have to replace the distributor points every few months. The car has beautiful lines, a well-organized interior, and is comfortable to sit in and drive. But.... Would standard (imperial, or inch) fasteners count? I can relate to either system of measurement, but I have two toolboxes for the different collections of sockets and spanners! I would really appreciate better quality wiring, connectors, and rubber parts (seals,floor plugs, window gaskets, etc.) Those 'cheap' quality copper wires with the inferior PVC sheathing didn't hold up like the stuff on the neighbors 1968 (10 years older!) Mustang. The way the wires were bundled or wrapped in the interior could be improved, especially the stuff behind the gauges and the centre console. At least the latter can be corrected with some effort. Better quality interior plastic pieces that don't crumble when you try to restore it after 40 years. Is there such a thing even now? But then the cars would cost $1500 more when they were new.

From all the golf balls I found in the back of my car (in the tool bins, under the deck, in the spare wheel well, etc) I think I can conclude that one of the owner(s) played a lot of golf. Furthermore, I found out that my bag of golf clubs fits perfectly on the deck behind the seats!

There are a few topics about the Maxifuse swap, if you care to read those. My goal was to simplify the number of wires on the starter terminal. Sarah- I'm thinking more now, that grabbing a fusebox from the JY will handle all my future needs, even if I 'borrow' the a/c relay slot to operate some headlamps :pirate:

I have been adding wires to the starter motor pos. (+) terminal/bold to run power to a power inverter, and I might add some extra lamps or headlamp relays to the front end, and you can barely get the nut on that starter terminal bolt now, so I think it would be better to have some kind of power distribution point near the battery? Some ideas I thought of are to grab a small underhood fusebox from a small modern car or to add a terminal block to the fender near the alternator. What options are there that would be appropriate for the S30? I'll add that the positive battery clamp has a pigtail on it that is already in use, so I think I would add an eye terminal to go to the distribution point from the battery clamp. thxZ

If you have that much experience, why not strip off all the old paint? You gotta be careful putting the new stuff over that old stuff.

The best thing to do, if you could, would be to go to the Z convention or a big Z meet, and get all the photos (or video) you can of the stock cars and for your model. But in the meantime, look through the gallery here.

You can't get that encapsulator at the local auto parts store.

Is there a specific name or style for the cable ties used in the engine bay wiring bundles? I'm referring to the ones that plug into a little hole on the fender. The best I can do for now is to look up "push in cable ties' or 'panel mount cable ties.' You want to make sure you get the same kind and not mix them, like I see sometimes on the hoses. thxZ