TomoHawk

I will still be needing a fuel computer eventually with all new injectorwiring...

When I got my engine the look-over at the dealer, he said "you're running rich" (off the scale!?) You can do these things: 1. Replace the AFM (obviously not working) 2. If not the AFM, then replacethe wiring for the engine. 3. If not #2, then replace EVERYTHING. The AFM from the edealer runs $600 installed. No guarantee that it will fix the problem, either. :~(

1. SOAK 2. SOAK 3. SOAK I mean liquid wrench or whatever penetrating potion you like. You could probably wedge the spacer off, then get a vicegrips on the bolts. Just take the time to do it right the first time.

Dude, try the HybridZ .org forum, they got the taurus fan all worked out. Only thing is I think you gotta make sure you got the AMPS to power the thing. While you're at it, install an LTD fan into the heater system... Try this first: http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2003/02/electricfan/index.shtml

While you're at it, maybe you could check all the injectors you have to see if they work, drip, or what? I think you just pull them out, pull off the wire from the coil-distrubutor, and have somebody crank the engine. Spray fuel in a bucket. Don't spray yourself! It'll get UNDER you skin!

I know the Pertronix system won't handle the fuel management, but is there something that will work ALONG WITH the Pertronix system and the stock AFM on a 280Z? May a Pertronix fuel management computer? I think it would be in my best interest to upgrade/replace everything eventually. thx.

I would have to try it and see. Thx for the heads up.

I think the EGR valve just lets some exhaust gases back into the intake, so if you remove the EGR valve, you will have to adjust the AFM, because it will be running rich? Maybe some cool, clean air instead?

My 78 has a header on it and the EGR valve doesn't have the tube on it. I don't know why theEGR valve is still on there. I think I'll take it off and J.B. weld a plate over the hole. Same with the thermal vacuum valve and the baqckpressure transducer valve. I don't know what they do tho.

I think he has carbs on the early 280.

Can you legally remove a catalytic converter? I know the muffler guy asked me if there was one there, because he could NOT remove it legally.

What would be the shipping from Arkansas toi Perth? Do you think you could send it next day with FEDEX? Do they still have that thing where you load your car onto an airplane, like a 747, to ship it?

You better make SURE bit's not hitting or else you'll get those neat little bumps on your hood. Maybe the bumps are good- to help you find the exact place to use the holesaw to drill a clearance hole!

Dude, When I got my 78 280Z, the hose on the fuel rail split ( a little) on the way to the house (only 2 miles!) and I had to fix that first thing. Took 2 gallons of gas to drive the 2 miles! Another off the fuel filter split later. 50 PSI gas really squirts far! I found out that just about anything rubber (fuel lines, shock covers, tires etc,) was dry, cracked, or just crumbled when you touched it. So I replaced all the hogh pressure fuel lines, and coolant hoses, the rest when I get to it. You will be Ok, just do the fuel lines NOW, the rest should hold up until you get to it.

It looks like you only have the bracket attached with the one strud. If you really wanted to make things stiffer, you need to have at least 2 of the studs, all 3 would look best and be best. No matter how tight you make that bolt, it will move there because of how heavy the car is. I think the best thing you could do with that is to put a second bolt through, but it looks like the bar won't reach in far enough. More mods. The second bolt would make things much stiffer, and you wouldn't have to make the nut REALLY tight, Just make things so there is (zero) slop. the bracket looks nice tho. If you wanted a functional bar, you could get some aluminum pipe (3/4 inch dia) then flatten the ends enough to fit between those two fingers on the bracket, and put 2 bolts though on each end. You might have to bend a hump into the bar to clear the engine. It's up to you. If you like it, it doesn't matter what anybody else says.

Can you describe the process you did to get it to go in? Did you hsave to remove the stuff? thx.

I assume you drained them to get them to collapse. Maybe you could cut them a little shorter and stick a spring (motorcycle shock?) in there for some some minimal protection. Does look much better tho.

No mater how hard you tighten the nuts, they're still too lose when you flex the 2400 lb. car ( did you put 2000 ft-lbs of torque on the bolts?) Really... Maybe later on you could weld in a gusset to your properly-adjusted bar to permanently set the ends, then chrome/paint everything. Then again, for $8 you could buy a steel pipe and make one that's just as functional. Actually, the best way to make it really rigid would be to run a bar from the frame rail on one side to the top of the strut on the other (diagonally), then the other way. That way there's no way things could flex. The hubs would have to break off! Isn't the engine in the way?

Uh Oh, you got one of those bars with the pivotting ends... Those bars don't help you much, because the pivots still allow the suspension to flex, like a wobbly rectangle-- it just keeps the geometry the same. One with rigid ends is better.

If the bumper shocks don't have any spring action, then your bumpers are totally useless. Before, the shocks allowed the bumper to take a light bump (5 MPH) without damage. So now, if your bumper shocks have no spring, then the force of an impace goes straight into the body/frame, or the shocks themselves will get squashed like a pop can. A better option would be to get shorter bumper shocks, but then you still run the risk of bending the sheetmetal if you get bumped because the bumpers are too close with no room to move.

Great! All we need now is to figure how to get rid of the carbon cannister without (too much) fumes.

Oops! I thought our UK friends had originally said the "local Z crowd " being small comment . No offense intended.