TomoHawk

I've seen many new Cadillacs with l.e.d. brake lights. At first they surprise you because instead of 'powering up' like a bulb does, they go instantly on, like a strobe light. I was tempted to panic-brake (once it was on the freeway), but I usually don't follow that close and I had time to get used to the new stuff. I'd expect to see them everywhere after a while.

Tommo- the l.e.ds for the dash have bases so they directly replace the bulbs there (194s?) No need to adapt anything- just remove the old plugs, and plug in the leds. _IF_ you can get the bulbs out.

AFAIK, All the pieces in my linkage were steel. I took everything apart, except the pivots (oops?) and I used the teflon washers on the connecting pins, under the c-clips to replace the shims that was worn away & rusted. They happened to be the right thickness, and shouldn't rust. Walter- I was referring to brushless motors as magnet-less because that's how Daniel was referring to them. I have one of those too, in one of my r/c boats. I like the simplicity of brushed PM motors.

What was done to rebuild your motor? Did you use the same plastic bag to protect your motor? thx

the rest of the car came with them..... free.

I saw the 'Full Throttle' show with the 240s... Got it on tape still ( I think I haven't recorded over it yet). It was a REAL SHAME that they built up these ol' "road racing" style cars and used them for drag racing :disappoin I wouldn't have been surprised if the half-shafts all broke or something like that. I think they should have used period parts, like bigger SUs or whatever to fix them up, but I didn't think the MSD ignition wasn't that bad. Did they have MSD ignition in 1970-72? And they should have had one more day, or at least a half day to build (or next morning before racing) or to tinker or acclimate to the car. Maybe they did and didn't show it. Instead they just got in and drove it like a new race car. I didn't push things with my 280Z until I drove it occasionally for a few weeks. It's hard to believe that they did a GOOD job painting it 'overnight.' Some people like all the arguing stuff, but I would have preferred to have some honest people do the work to see just how far you really can get, with good results, in the two days they give you.

My name ISN'T Tommy. What's the purpose of Brainstorming? And I asked a valid question!! It's NOT a half-baked idea because I got my idea from somewhere else- I just can't remember right now. And what's wrong with trying a new direction to an idea that's not really successful? NO, I'm NOT going to try it on my car, because I LIKE having my pushbutton lock on the hatch. If the door locks fail (kind of loose already), I can get in through the back. So what is the purpose of having an OPEN FORUM, if only "certain people" can give opinions??? SO,if you think my idea isn't developed enough for YOU, why don't you ask for elaboration? the sketches I have in my notebook are plenty for me. OK? H.A.N.D.

no problem, Daniel If you're talking about 'magnet-less' motors, they need an electronic controller to make them go. Examples are computer floppy & hard drives, which still have magnets, but those are on the (armature part), and the coils are fixed. Except for the alternator, which isn't a motor, and the coil(s) are turned via engine & belt.

Instead of fooling with the lock mechanism, why not just hook up the cable to the striker bracket? If you just take out one bolt(essentially) to let it swivel and cut one side off so you have a bracket with a pin pointing to the side, you would just have to hook up the cable to the bracket to pull the in away from the hook. Maybe even build a new bracket with a tapered hook to pull out easier. Or beef up the bracket/pin that's there (how much load is on that hook?)

Daniel, you need to inform yourself. I don't get my racing motors from Radio Shack! My $150 neodym motors will give you 1 horsepower! On 7.5 volts! (6 cells). But the motor in my example was one of the (cheap) $45 ones. Sad that it went bad; I had it tuned perfectly, and it got overhauled after every race day. FYI, the wiper motor, heater motor, starter motor, et al, have PERMANENT magnets in them. The starter having the better magnets, because it's in a high-heat area. the starters on old muscle cars go bad because of the heat from the headers! (been there- seen it happen). The alternator has an electromagnetic coil, hence the need for the 'energizing' circuit. Thanks for your minimum compliment. BTW, the rumcurrent world speed record for electric r/c boat is 121 MPH! Faster than ANY I.C.-powered (gas OR nitro) model! http://rumrunnerracing.com/ (top-center photo)

I think I've found the problem with the Z's windhield wiper motor... Working with my electric r/c race boats, I found out that one was 'slow' because the MAGNETS in the motor had gone bad because of the heat involved over time. Over time (25+years), and with the motor under a steel panel, catching rays/heat (mine is a Florida car), the old-style magnets in the windshield wiper motors, should have gone bad, or weak, which means that you can put direct power from the battery, and you're still not going to get the right speed or strength. So the problem then would be to find out if you can replace the magnets, which are probably glued in. These could be chipped out or maybe put in an oven to (burn?) off the glue. Then you'd need to get or make new magnets. I suppose you could get the materials to cast magnets (like ceramics) but then you still need to zap them to activate the part. That might need special equipment. Maybe there is somebody in this club that has contacts or experience with magnet manufacture. Thx

I see "Ferrari style" air horns on Ebay all the time. If it's (OEM ferrari equipment) then it should be good for your Zed. ferraris are sports cars too, right?

I learned from r/c racing that the servo tape used for radio control stuff is REALLY STRONG. It takes a day or so for the bond to get strong, and if you ever take it off, it leaves a black gummy mess, but for the strength, I don't mind. Otherwise, I use GOOP for strong bonds.

Is that show done? I was going to watch it, but can't find wen it airs. thx

What profanity? Oh yeah... he said "LS1"

I'll go along with the information on that chart, even with my old beastie. Only the braking might ber a little worse, because the MC doesn't seal well=- need rebuild/replacing.

My 280Z is beter than that, stock. I forget if it's supposed to be faster thn a 240.. BTW- my mug is on my avatar.

For a LOT less than USD1000, you can get a whole kit sent to you.

I just had a neat thought..... If you grounded the car, would it help prevent any rust, or what would it do/ what could you do to reverse rust while it's sitting there. This would be the best time to use such a 'therapy.' My electrical system seems to get better, the more you useit- the headlights & dash lights seem to be brighter than when I first got the car.

It looks like you need to surf over to zhome.come to see the information on carb adjustment. It's possible your carbs need service or rebuild to work properly regardless of how you adjust the screws. Any piece of equiment not in good repair can't function to its best.

I thought it was: One leg to the ground, and the other to the positive pole.

Let us all know how it goes. I'm interested in the Euro sound myself, for my 180Z thx

He's talking about the Lusitania, which was suposedly torpedoed by a U-boat.

I have that; by Kevin Wilson. Pm me for details.

No, there isn't any difference in what happens if your vehicle collides with anything, it's just common sense to say that when you have that many more cars in an area, like in west-coast cities, you gotta lave some laws to keep order & safety, or to deal with pollution, or you'll end up with chaos. You don't have to be an expert at anything to know that. I do feel that every car, whether OEM built or custom, should have some safety equipment like seat belts & bumpers, even if they can't be made up to the current standard(s). Emmissions tuning or equipment too.