TomoHawk

Well, I got a magnet out of a computer hard drive and a set of deer whistles from Murray's Discount Auto Parts, and I'll saw the magnet in half then GOOP it to the whistle, so I can stick it opn the bumper, or anywhere else, and it's guaranteed to stay there, unless it get's hit by something solid. thx

I agree. Like the Monte didn't already have a built engine BEFORE the nitrous was added. That's how things used to be- run what you got ( as in before nitrous.) If it was two kids over something less valuable, I'd say they deserved to lose because they allowed themselves to sink as low as the Chevy driver.Do you think they could ever get two cars that are the same, like two turbo Zs or two Honduhs?

I can't make sense of that show. Everybody's arguing, and the phography sucks. ( too close) Even the narator was hard to understand. Good thing I taped it (and running out to the Z during commercials to clean & pack for a car show this weekend.) It airs again at 11 or 11:30 pm eastern, IIRC (if you get it). I thought Texans were more 'laid back' than that?...

How do they get these totally mis-matched races? You'd never see this in street racing- where they usually find cars with like performance before racing for pinks.

The car in the article was an Alfa Romeo GTV6, so you need to find the ground points that the author is talking about. The Atlantic Z article just gives you general suggestions, and a few specific points (like the thermotime sensor.) But since this article is specific the Bosch L-jetronic EFI system, the grounds, connectors, etc., are there, just probably in a slightly different location.

Monte Carlo: 383 SBC with 150 nitrous, full racing trans, suspension, etc. Z: Turbo L28, stock everything, but too much rurbo heat & (dizzy problems?) Z lost the first two by a hair(too much turbo lag) Z wins 3rd by 4 lengths (straight up) Z wins 4th by 4 lengths( 2 lengths lead) Z lost 5th by 4 (heads up- Monte has nitrous) definitely not an even race, and the Monte driver did everything he could to keep it that way. Again, drag racing a Z isn't was it was designed to do. Let's get the Pinks to go to a ROAD COURSE.

"No 'IMPORT' has ever gone heads-up against a DOMESTIC and WON."LOL ROFL

This is an article on improving the efi on your Z car. Stuff you can do without special equipment. It's not really anything new from what we've discussed in the forums here. I read about this from a guy selling vacuum hose kits for a 280Z. He said in his auction that you can request a free copy, but what you get is a link to his website. It's 45 pages if you print it, but I would suggest that you just read sections instead. The direct link: http://www.hiperformancestore.com/L-jetronic.htm

That's what happened to mine. I even used the ammonia solution, plastic, etc. I even took it to a tinting place and the guy said I have to scrap the rear window clean and/or buy a new window w/ defogger. He must be selling lotsa new windows and defoggers that way. :angry: I obviously will have to scrape it now, and install an aftermarket defogger.

I noticed my dipstick isn't really all that tight when you push it all the way down. I've read that pressure leaks through the dipstick tube seem to be important, but I'd like to know if you should really see any difference if the dipstick is sealing or not. Like when you take the oil filler cap off... I'll try an experiment tomorrow by running the engine with the dipstick out, and a cork in the dipstick tube compared to an open tube. Can you tighten the diptick seal by wrapping some electrical tape around it? Maybe all I need is a heat-shrink tubing shim. thx

Wednesday, at 9:30 E.T. I wonder why they are going to a 3 of 5 race format, as usually the cars barely make 3 heats! Desperate to fill the time slot, I'll bet... I'll go with the Z, as I know the HybridZ guyZ build a good car, and guys with Monte's usually are fully of cubic-inch hype! for more information: http://www.speedtv.com/pinks/

I thought this was my topic.

I think I can confirm how good the 3N71B trans is. Mine was finally rebuilt at 110k miles, when the reverse refused to grab. I used it for some (1/4 mile sprints), a few autoX runs, and if I need to, I'll keep it in 2nd to get on the freeway (at 60+ MPH). Sounds cool going 60 in 2nd gear. Just need some engine fixes, because there's not much power until you get to 2500 RPM. Will- I thought you were going to do the maxima trans swap. Did your new baby nix that?

Don't you need all lthe electronic sensors & stuff to get it to work (i.e., the overdrive & lock-up?)IMO, The '83 Maxima with the 4th gear AND o/d would be the way to go. I don't intend to do much drag stuff; mostly highway cruising. the 4.11 diff would be something for later on. Just for kicks, what would estimate the cost of this conversion to be? about $800, $1000, $1200, $1500? thx

Did you forget the off-shore powerboat collection?

You can't have everything, bud. Mine will end at about 12, unless I can find a plastic model of a 280Z with an Alpha One body kit, and a non-OEM interior! :eek:

Thanks Steven, It looks like when I got the extra cash, I'll be able to take my choice, then add it to my collection:

I'll have to add one to my collection; but I'm starting a new job, so it'll have to wait a few weeks, like everything. else (including Z electrical restorations.) thx

Ah, there they are- sawblades! I'd be tempted to take you up on your offer, but I've got too many projects, and I need to finish some before I even start looking for a model kit (if I did get one, I'd start on that- another project!) thx

Groovy pictures. Is that model missing a sideview mirror on the driver's side? Also does that model have the sawblades? I'm envious. I wish I could still make models like that. In the driveway photo, it looks almost real! thx

OK, but which one for which?

Ok, but how do you plan to get the headlamp connector through that little hole and through the heatshrink?

We didn't make you marry her, bud. You did that to yourself:nervous:

You could just take off the connector on the cold-start injector and see how the engine will go. But I'm puzzled as to why they would put a winshield washer fluid button separate from the wiper controls, in a place where you can't get to it easy (like the hazard switch.) Plus, your 79 shouldn't need a switch for the cold-start injector; the engine ECU should have that. (actually the thermotime sensor does).

If I could find the part on the microfiche, I could probably order one, or at least know the name of it..