TomoHawk

kewl. thx

Inside the wheel well, near the front, there's a rubber elbow/grommet, that the headlamp & front side marker wiring passes through. The microfiche calls it a 'sealing-headlamp support.' 63814-E4100 Where can you get those? thx

I like the front bumper treatment.

While I'm considering a new antenna, Should I get one of those AM/FM/CB deals? I have a handheld CB for use on road trips, and I'm told you need an outside antenna to get good range from those... thx

I jotted down a list of the connections I thought would be good to make: 1. Batt(-) -> chassis 2. Chassis -> starter (-) 3. starter (-) -> block 4. block -> head 5. block -> Alt. 6. Alt. -> Intake 7. Intake -> Dist. 8. Intake -> AFM 9. Intake -> chassis/dropping resistors 10. Drop. res. -> steering column/headlights -The block:near the bottom; the heater hose clamp -head: front/hoist bracket? -Intake: middle; the EFI wires clamp or AAV valve -AFM: Any bolt -Drop. resistors: mounting bolt -Steering Col.: preferably the headlamp switch bolt and/or the lighting rheostat I still don't think 8 Ga wire would be approprite- too obvious. I'm going with 10Ga. 1000 strand wire. Not much current is involved. thx

What do you think my Z is doing right now? He's in an airplane hangar half-naked ( no seats or carpets) shivering! He even got snowed on a week before he went in...

Will, I don't cool my Guiness! OTOH, I thought the toolboxes could be line with plastic bag & ice...

Have a great holiday/vacation. I don't know if you have seasons at home, but in the Northern U.S., we are getting closer to winter. My 280z is in it's hangar, waiting for my weekly visit on Saturdays to fix something.

Compared to what? :classic:

I think they electricals could've been simplified more. I'm getting used to the switched-ground thing, and it's not so bad now. Too bad you couldn't select several choices... thx

It's supposed to accept dual #4 wires. The ones dzrt1st posted about looked too pretty for my taste, so I'd go with the ones I mentioned, or some Military-spec ones I saw: http://www.solarseller.com/battery_post_connectors_conversions_adapters_repair.htm Except even those are made of lead.

I see whereChevy got the idea for the body on the Camaro...

I don't want any bling. Never said I did. I prefer the Military style to that stuff.

Maybe it's bling, but it's also the most accomodating clamp you can get. In fact, I haven't been able to find any other style clamp, like the strap clamps you see on eBay battery cables. Even the Millitary spec ones are solid aluminum and the connection is with a bolt. BTW- is there really a different in diameter between the Pos & Neg battery posts? thx

Only the contact between the wire & clamp is effected, and so I would first solder the end of the wire, then stick it in & tighten. If the thing isn't so good, then why do the 'high-performance guys' use it? If you want to use a soldered lug-ended wire, you'd also need a battery post with a screw/bolt on it Of course I'd go with soldered lugs on all the engine & chassis connections.

Why not coat the clamp with Plastidip after installing the wires? Or at least seal the connection where the wire goes in?

I dunno if this was discussed recently, but here is a like to the Protege site as an example: http://www.clubprotege.com/wil/howto/groundwire/ On my initial list of ground wires I have this: alternator air meter head intake manifold chassis engine/trans One of the things that was interesting, was the use of a machined aluminium battery cable clamp. It was much prettier than the ol' lead ones, and you can add a mains wire, as well as a few ancillary ones, like grounds, or for headlight harness. The ones I saw at my local store had holes for 6 wires. What would you think about just replacing the worn-out clamps on your battery with these? thx

I got a pic of the place where the springy thing goes on the endof the lever. I didn't notice before, but I think it's screwed on. HTH

It really is simple to hook up. I'm just not sure why they have a wire for ground, when the two mounting screws should work just fine. Consistency, I'll bet.

E- So it sounds like you need a singe-throw (SPST) switch that stays in the up or down setting? So either it's up or it's NOT up with the new ones.

My 280Z has the 6-spoke ZX wheels on it. Do you think I can put the wheels back on after removing the drums, so I can get the drums blasted & painted? I think it should be fine, since the studs will only be 10mm longer and the car is not going anywhere until Spring. I don't have any regular lug nuts; only the ones for the ZX wheels. thx

This how-to tech article is about making & installing your own ground wires on a car. The article uses a Mazda Protoge as the example. It was said somewhere else that you should include the headllight ground in the system, but since the headlight ground is on the steering column, you'll have to do something else for that or just omit it. I'm not sure I would use the heavy gauge wires that they use. 10 Ga seems the heaviest you can get away with on a Z, unless you want them to be noticed. I'm sure that we could discuss the correct wire, terminals & battery clamp/connection to use for this. I did like the idea of the aluminium battery clamp with the extra holes for additional wires. Just can't think of where you'd get battery clamps in the 'burbs. http://www.clubprotege.com/wil/howto/groundwire/ fwiw

I got the part out by prying the big end up, out of the hole it's in, then it slides out. I'll be moddin the arm so it slipson in the normal(old) way. Having the taller mirror allows me to see more of the road behind the car.

I have a review mirror from a newer Monte Carlo I got free, and I'd like to put it in my Z, but the metal part (that gets glued to the glass) is still stuck in the mounting arm. Is there a way to get the thing out of the arm? there are two small square-ish slots in the foot of the arm, and it looks like you might need to stick a tool in there to get the mount to pop out. thx

I know what you mean about the paint stripes. When I was racing bikes ( a la Lance Armstrong) I was always looking for the infamous 'Dixie cup' when racing through suburban cities... Those 18mm tyres just don't handle the little 'wax cakes' like a car will. BTDT.