TomoHawk

I fount it a little easier getting the console out if you frst remove the plate with the vents in it ( fours screws & two plugs.) You also get more room to work under the heater controls.

The problem with trying to plug the EGR hole on the exhaust manifold is that the hole has a good coating of rust in it, so trying to get a threaded bolt or plug in probably won't work. You may have to be creative, but make sure that the hole is properly plugged so the exhaust gasesdon't get out, and the heat won't deteriorate the plug. thxZ

I got an AFM from eBay for about $50.

I'll just say thanks to you all for NOT calling it TURKEY DAY! :angry:

If you want, I'll snd ya a copy of my MP3 CD. It has a collection called Monsters of Rock (like the commercial CD) with a bunch of quintissential rock songs from various notable groups. It's about 8 hours total. there's 2 from VH in there. thx

We have been planning things since months before the Daytona event, but there is so much to do. Keep an eye on the official website www.clevelandrockZ.com for the official details. I can't tell you any details myself, but that we are working on some wonderful things that'll make it a year to remember! Remember... it IS the rock & roll capital of the world! :cheeky:

Do you think it would be possible to get some pictures of how it looks from the driver's seat or from a point standing next to the door? To see the differences of inside & outside the car, and maybe from one or two points on-coming.

I've already cleaned & lubed the arms twice, once with a total dissasembly, so the only thing there is to get the motor out and open that up. It'll spin around happily on its own, and slows down under load. The only thing reason why I resist taking the motor out is because it would probably be difficult to reseal the plastic bag later. thxZ

Is it possible to bypass the electronic controller for the windshield wiper motor? I had the idea that maybe the controller (a transistorized thing) itself is pooped-out, so that might be the reason why the motor is slow. If you could do a quick check, then you could narrow things down. The controller doesn't seem to be available new. thxZ

Mine is 434056, and it says 11/77 as the build on the door jamb. thxZ

IMO, a 350Z looks like an attempt to make a street car that resembles a car used on the LeMans circuit, with the curved-down front & back. The only thing it dopesn't have is the long nose with the radiator cooling tunnels, and a huge wing.

IMO, the newer Mustangs resemble the older ones. The 250Z doesn't have anything in common with an S30 except the letter Z.

Because S30s look like and are REAL sportscars and not squatting frogs!!

That's the same as my 280Z. After the g/w goes to the gauges, the r/l wire goes to the dimmer control, then a black wire to ground. So for cebu, connecting the r/l wire for the dimmer direct to the chassis should get him some lights. If not, then he's got a broken circuit somewhere. Cebu- Do you have the steering column cover off? Grab your test lamp, buzzer, or multimeter...

Dude- If you want the musclecar people to notice you, you'll need a 27-inch chromed air filter sticking out of the bonnet! At "classic car" shows, the guy with the biggest air cleaner wins! :laugh: That's why all the hoods are up like that. thxZ

The problem could also be in the switch itself. Not knowing how similar a 260Z is to a 280Z, I couldn't tell you where to start. I think your next step would be to follow the flow of electricity from the fusebox. You really need a wiring diagram for your car from now on.

It's about impossible to tell, since I'm not a psychic! You'll need to go looking around yourself, or get some help from a service shop. You may want to invest a few dollars in a test lamp, multimeter, and buzzer thing. thxZ

You won't see anything labeled 'dash lights' or anything like that. On a wiring diagram, you would only see the lines representing the wires going to the gauges, connected to a little lightbulb symbol inside the gauge. One of the wires/lines (grn-wht on a 280Z) goes back to the light switch connector, and then the switch itself, and the other wire/line (red-blu) goes through the dimmer control to ground.Get a wiring diagram for your year & model to see how yours goes. Here is an example of the diagram for the dimmer control on a 280Z. The B wire from the dimmer control goes to ground. The other (RL) comes from the lights.

I better get ( another) new exhaust! I can barely hear mine inside the car, and not at all with the window up and the radio on. I gotta look at the tacho, and pop the throttle, to see if the engine is on. I'm not sure that with the exhaust so quiet, I won't be allowed to go on any car cruises with the musclecar people.

"to a plug on the speedo??" I hope you didn't fry your speedometer! The dimmer control doesn't have a plug that goes to the speedometer. It goes to a mating plug that's in a nearby group of wires. If that's what you did, and the light still doesn't work, you might try bypassing the dimmer control. You'll need a wiring diagram to see which pin to use, then connect it to ground. Then if you still don't have any lights, you're in trouble...

I wonder what caused the bumps in the metal in the first place? Rock hits from underneath? That would mean in inner fenders were missing, and if the bumps were fixed, you might get more bumps afterwards. If it was affordable, fix the bumps, then find out how they got there, and fix that, then repaint, and you'll be fine.

If it's like a 280Z, then the dimmer control's connector is a 2-pin white plastic connector under the left eyeball vent. The mating connector to the dash lights should be nearby. You will probably need a light to crawl under there and look for it- there's a big mess under there! (At least mine is.) This is a good incentive to get yourself a copy of the wiring diagram for your car, especially if you intend to keep it a long time. thxZ

You're right Stephen, To know if the Toyauto AFM would even work on the Datsun, you would need to check some things like the resistance values for the different openings of the flapper ( assuming it is that design,) and probably some of the other things like the fuel pump switch. On the extreme, it might be possible to add a resistor to adjust the resistance range on the AFM to work. The engine should run reasonably well with only the AFM connected, and even better (for daily driving and performance-wise) with the TPS connected. Just because it fits, doesn't mean it'll work properly, and maybe another swap with the 240SX AFM should be considered. Don't forget a proper tune up too.

It sounds like your TPS is wired backwards! Did anybody mention checking over at HybridZ.com? They do a lot of swapping there, so maybe there's a work-around for your stuff. thxZ

Walt- I'll bet your color is easily seen in traffic, huh? What's so bad about that?