TomoHawk

they go for about 50 bux, so I'd spend about 50 bux. Bryan offered to recover mine until it fell to pieces. I think I will cut an MDF frame for temporary use and stick a piece of foam on it, like a mock-up. There just won't be a latch on it. Too bad there is nothing, AFAIK from recent cars that would fit between the seats, or is there?

I didn't know Zs were 4-wheel drive.... so it's really not a scale model. The body clips really stick out, and it's too bad you can't use something that look like hood safety clips instead. I might get it if it was 2-wheel drive and had a 280Z body

Wouldit be possible to fashion a lid for the armrest/centee console out of plywood or something? They seem to be about as rare as hen's teeth. It's a 1978 280Z. thxZ

It is, but you'll need to use some non-factory parts, like for the up/down switch.

I can see that this kind of wiring works, but you can only have it fully up or down. What if you just want to have the antenna only 1/2 way up, when you drive in the city? thxZ

Successs on an engine block! I helped a professional Rolls-Royce restorer guy de-rust an engine block using the electrolytic method. We used a big plastic 50-gallon drum for the container, rested the engine block on wood blocks on the bottom, and used 8 rods of rebar around the perimeter as the electrodes. the rods were flattened on the ends with holes drilled for screws for the best electrical connections. 12 ga. stranded wire with eye-connectors were used all-around (there was a big roll handy.) The power was a 20 Amp, 6-volt battery charger; 12 volts didn't look to make any difference. Current was about 17 amps to start, and smoothed out to about 10 Amps at the end. The process took about 20 hours total. There was probably a good inch or so is rusty crud floating on top,which was scooped off with a paper cup and the electrodes were barely affected. The block was finished off with water to flush the cooling passages, and a rinse with some light scrubbing to get the black oxide coating off, and the bare metal was protected with a spray-on waxy coating that resembled furniture polish. The waxy coating will be removed with solvent before painting the block. The cylnder bores were examined before and after the process with NO CHANGES. The diameter was not affected, nor was the cross-hatching from the previous (original) honing. A light honing of the cylinder bores will be done anyway. I think the total cost was about $50 -60 from the quantity of distilled water used, and the rebar rods. the rest was on-hand (plastic drum, wire, battery charger and washing powder.) thxZ

"Some" amazing roads... To have a good targa course, you need to have a complete loop, like the Targa Florio, and keep the interest of the drivers. Also, you need to limit the course to at most 800 - 1000 miles so people don't get bored.

Since California is like a country all to itself, it makes sense to make a circuit of the state. But most or all other states, IFAIK, don't have any visible border like water ( No, Florida isn't an island!) or mountains, or even a river. Ohio ( which is squarish) has a lake one one border, a river on another and nothing on the other two, but does have major routes circumscribing the state. Pennsylvania, with its western mountain range and central farmland, but no major routes, except the turnpikes that go down the middle. I can't think of any other states that has something like california, except Florida, but who really thinks of flat terrain and smoldering swamps as scenic? thxZ

they didn't say much about the route. What was the route they drove? Carl- What would you suggest for an "East Coast Targa?" thxZ

You mean now you'll need a day when it's 7 outside? To see if it works!

This stuff isn't an oil or oil additive, like Slick 50, or any of that stuff you can get at the auto parts store. Lucas oil additives come o mind, and so does the phrase "snake oil." It's a gel that you get in a small tube, and you put it in the engine oil, then drive 150 miles, and repeat another two times, for three applications. There are fomulas for petrol engines, diesel engines, 2-stroke engines, manual & auto transmissions, gun barrels, etc. For lots of things that have metal-to-metal contact & wear. Check the website for details. A guy in my area who restores Rolls Royce's uses it in the engines and in the engines of the family cars & other ordinary cars. He says that it does work. It was used to 'tighten up' crankshaft bearings, repair cylinder wall wear, fix up manual trans slop, etc. Some poor-running engines that smoked or ran rough were fixed up even after only one application! Of course, if the part is worn past the tolerances, then you'll need a new part, but if you just want to boost things with light wear back to where it ought to be, then you might try it. I think I will try it in my L28, but I won't know until Fall or next year ... thxZ

You'll probably want different kinds of bushings in different places. Urethane can make the suspensing feel stiffer, and can tighten up the steering too, but I've read people here reporting that urethane bushings on the T/C rods were the likely cause of them breaking. so use rubber on that (for street use.) But it seems that urethane in the rear contol arms have good results, though a little stiffer. Runbber for things that need to flex more,liket he T/C rods, and urethane for things that flex less, like steering rack & control arms, The rear bushings are a big &%%#$! pain to get out. One source says to use a press, another says to burn the rubber out, cut a slot then chisel... IMO, that's the tougher choice, and you need to have a mechanic you trust or one that knows Zs.

I remember meeting you Ron, and mgood, at the car show. I ran into Will & Chris at the Sunday night party, even though Will had been in town since thursday night, I think, but I was too busy with setup stuff to hang with them. O - L... It's a good thing the convention was here where I live or I wouldn't have been able to go; I don't get vacation time. As for showing your mug & name, maybe we can get a CZCC nametag thing going (with your mug & car photo, aliases, etc.) here so you can wear it whever you go. thxZ

Judging, judging, judging.... I was up at 5:30 am on judging day, drove 25 minutes to the hotel, then drove right back to the fairgrounds (and left my car by the street, then walked 1/3 mile down the driveway) before anybody else got there to help direct traffic... Didn't anybody go on the bus tour, or go to the track day, or the Autocross, or the Poker Run?? How about the dinner cruise? What did you guys do "after-hours??" I know where Chris & Will were! :tapemouth I got to talk with Fred Jordan Friday morning during breakfast. Nice guy. Did you guys meet anybody interesting in psticular, like Fred, or the AMS guys or Some of the gorgeous local news-anchors? Did you talk to the NissanSport editor? How about some stories of something interesting you did, or got, or saw, or someone you met? thxZ

You might want to view some videos by the experts in detailing: http://www.expertvillage.com/video/5106_car-detailing-interior.htm You'd be surprised at some of the things they do, like blowing air INTO the dash vents with the fan on HI. Otherwise, you can't assume something is clean or good. Look at it from another point-of-view. Have your neighbor look at it. write down everything he comments on (you don't need an expert for that), then go after the things you can do or want to do.

Excellent! I've only been trying it since I was in college.

When I think of price-per-pound, I think of my racing bike, which weighs a mere 20 Lbs., and cost $2500 new, not including all the stuff I've replaced over the years. It's another $1500 in stuff I've added since new. That's $125/Lb. new and $200 per Lb. currently. IMO, when you get to the $100/Lb. mark, you have a serious machine.... probably. At least mine is.

Good for you. People that expect you to add stuff onto the car right away probably don't really know much about classic cars or real sportscars. They probably think that watching The fast & Furious :sick: is an education in sportscars. IMO, only race cars need spoilers I such- they do nothing for street cars. Don't forget to set the idle speed properly when you get things sorted out. I forgot to do that once and the engine stalled 100 feet before the gas station. I thought it was out of gas, until I gassed up & left. Had to keep my foot on the gas the whole way home. Good luck. :classic:

The Z registers are only for 240Zs?

There's Frappr too. http://www.frappr.com/zowners

That's odd. The product is meant for paint, but it seems it worked on the glass in this instance.

If you miss the program on Thursday nights, you can see re-runs on Sundays.

You see that stuff on the Barrett-Jackson auctions ALL the time: people auctioning something like a '70 Cuda, claiming their car is a one-of-a-kind or the 'only one like it.' It just means it's a car with something like a left-handed cigar lighter/ashtray or any other combination of factory options that would make it the only one with that combination of options. And they think it'll get them an extra $20 or $30,000

I'll add in my car since Will and Chris didn't make it to the track day at the last convention.

It's going to be on for 10 weeks total- on Thursday nights at 10pm ET.