TomoHawk

The product I was going to use on my splashguards is the Duplicolor Truck Bedliner TR250 (http://www.duplicolor.com/products/truckbed.html) and you can get it in a 16 oz. spray can, quart & gallon for spray-on, and a roller kit. It has a texture a little leather, goes on somewhat thicker than paint and stays flexible. Finding it would be the difficult thing. The usual places I have gotten it from before only stock the Rustoleum products now, and the Walmart website doesn't have any automotive products at all.

Please tell us exactly what the Rustoleum product is? It might be the same product I used on the sill scuff plates.

A trip to the recycle yard and a hole-saw will take care of those. I'm thinking down the road when I will need to remove the forward bolts to change a headlamp. How should the forward-bottom edge (under the headlamp) attach or seal to the body? I found it hanging down, so it could scoop up dirt or water as you drive. I'll be installing E's drainage tube on both sides, btw. thxZ

Oddly, I get a surprising number of people looking in my front wheel wells at the more fancy car shows. Maybe they're expecting some fiberglass parts like a kitcar? Yes it's plastic, but after so long (FL car) it's gotten slightly inflexible or brittle (especially in the corners and the wheel flange where the clips are.) I gotta handle it with great care while cleaning. I was thinking of using the same kind of treatment for the rear wheel wells so they match. thxZ

Ok, So I've gotten the one inner fender, or "splash shield" as Mr. Humble calls it, off the car and after a couple more cans of brake cleaner, I'll have all the dried-up rubber stuff off. There are a few cracks in the old thing, so I think I'll put a patch on the backside with some GOOP. I can probably mold a patch for a corner with some heat and a piece from a 2-liter bottle, or is there a better material you can get easily, like at a DIY store? The holes where the attachment bolts go have been enlarged to the size of the bolt heads, so those will need a reinforcement too. But after I get all the repairs done, do I need to coat the exposed part with something? Probably something flexible with a satin finish. Some black bumper paint maybe? thxZ

For those that didn't go this year, Mr. John Morton was there signing his autograph.

Don't forget to ask permission to scan, of course.

In reference to the book, I would suggest that you get it rebound with a coil spine, so you can lay it flat. The binding got brittle and the pages started coming out not long after I got it.

I used a heat gun to strip mine, and painted it with bedliner stuff, which comes out with a leather-like texture, and looks nicer than the vinyl stuff anyway.

Do you mean the little doors that are on the heater outlets on either side of the console, by your feet? Mine are fixed. If you mean the selector flap inside, then it may not be moving enough because of an old dashpot. The flap itsef may have worn edges and not seal enough to guide the air properly. My selector doesn't click into the notches at all. I think there's a spring-loaded thingy that gos into the notches? Mine is totally missing and I would have to fabricate something, but have no photo or diagram to go on. Can you please explain what you've got or get some photos, because I can't find any photos of what is supposed to be there. thxZ

Would you put gasoline with Ethanol (E-85, IIRC) in an L28? I got a $100 gas card, and it would last a couple months for me if I could use it.

V-8 engines have features like 2-bolt main bearing, 4-bolt main bearings, webbed reinforcement of the cylinders, more oil return passages, etc. Is there anything like that in any of the L24/L26/L28 engines to make certain ones desirable?

Thank for the picture, Arne, but it still doesn't tell you the I.D. of the clamp. Assuming "car batteries" manufactured for use in the U.S. all have the same post dimensions, I will have to conclude that the "positive" clamp is either a universal fit or it is supposed to fit onto a "positive" battery post, and so forth for the "negative" one.

There was no mention of battery post size.

Do they have the different-sized ends to properly fit the battery terminals, or do they just use a universal-type end? Also, will those ends break after a few times of loosening & tightening? Mine keep cracking after a few times.

Mitchell- How do you get to the bulbs in the tail lights with that speaker panel in?

we need to put the Got Search smilie in the collection!

The key that came with the lock has a different pattern of slots on the two checks. It uses a different key blank. I was told before the the locksmith that you can't change that.

The '240Z' lock works, even though it's not the exact same thing that was on the car. I decided to try it for fun to see what difference there was, and there isn't any accept the key. I just took the arm off the old lock, put it on the new lock, then the E-clip, and installed the lock on the door. It worked great. Too bad the key is different.

I just got a "new" driver's-side lock for my 280Z from the dealer. I watched the parts guy look it up on the computer when I ordered it a week ago, and the number he wrote down matched the one I found on my microfiche CD, for my model and year. What I found in the bag was a lock for a 240Z.It had the short arm with the plastic keeper, and the early key. Is that correct? If it really is the proper lock for a 280Z, and the old arm fits, I think I can live with having 2 keys for the car if absolutely necessary, but would rather keep the car working as it originally was supposed to. thxZ

for vintage/antique car shows, which includes the classic Z, the judging manuals want you to display the owner's manual, if you have a good one, on the passenger seat, as well as any other documents relevant to the car. I don't usually go to those tho. In any case, I don't think I would allow anyone to open the glove box themselves, and at your local car show (with judging) they don't even look in the glove box. thxZ P.S. (Will) everybody likes the Z key chain you sent to me.

So the music video will be a little later in getting published.

I looked through he FSM (Emission Control.pdf) for the '78 and it doesn't discuss the carbon canister much. It has the information for the canister filter on page 25, but that page is the copyright information.

It seems peculiar that mr. ghibli is just now asking for the car. You'd think that they knew they would need the car a while ago. That is, unless he 'just now' discovered the CZCC.

the ZCCA judging rules allows only the proper owner's manual to be in the glovebox for judging, but it doesn't say what is allowed in the centre console. I just keep a notepad & pencil in there, and the notepad was cut so it fits in just right with the pencil between it and the side, so it doesn't rattle. I also keep the tyre pressure gauge in there, but I would remove that for judging. Fair enough? thxZ