TomoHawk

I'm just going to stay with a stock-type setup for the bushings. The biggest thing that I am concerned about is that the body guys don't have to guess at how to install the replacements, because there isn't much information on that.

Sorry, I meant to say it's missing the L26 engine, which has an extra 200cc of displacement, not cylinders.

That seems to be the first big problem. It's missing 200cc of displacement. Why did it get a smaller engine than it originally had?

I see. Somehow you got the wire between the little spring and the solid part? Why not just use a little pin or rivet in stead of the wire?

FYI- There's another "Mitty" event, but it's not a race or speed event. It's a map-based road rally- no race track involved.

I just smile to those people, as they are probably coming from a different perspective as I am (with my 280Z.) My Z is NOT a Porsche, so I wouldn't even compare it, just as a Sunfish isn't a sailing-yacht, bit it's just as fun (to me.)BTW- I think Katz's English is getting better? the first time I know of some improving their English by typing things on an Internet discussion forum. :laugh:

Mark, can you please describe what you did, and is it still working? If I can repair my 280Z locks, I'd be happy to reinstall them, and take the 240Z key off the keyring.

I took my one new lock to get keyed last summer as the locksmith said it would be no problem, but it turned out that it was a 240Z lock, not a 280Z lock (new oem 280Z locks are NLA from the dealer or car lock companies.) He wasn't even able to use the same pattern of notches in the 240Z key. So now I have three different keys for my car, but I can find them with my eyes closed, so I'm OK.

My locksmith had new face-caps because they go bad sometimes, and the little door/spring breaks or falls out.

How did you get the screws out of the bottom? It looks like a phillips head using a smaller bit than usual.

Did you need to use the resister gadget for the turn signal bulbs? I have read that some of the flashers didn't flash because the LEDs changed the resistance of the circuit.

Shoe Goo, maybe? GOOP won't stick them together. I'd start with weatherstrip adhesive and go from there. A body shop might know what to use. I was going to try cutting a plug from an old bumper end, but it disappeared already.

The stuff in #17 won't glue your cut-up bumper ends. Its used to repair scratches & fill gouges in the bumper covers on newer cars. I'll bet 3M has something that will glue the cracked or cut bumper end parts. The round plugs are the ones that cover the screws on the side where it attaches to the sail panel.

How would you glue that? BTW- can you get those little round plugs?

hybridz.org is fine. Just the chatroom isn't working.

where's the chrome paint topic?

The the colour gallery at Zhome. They have little 'color chips' you can click on that show you a picture of a real car in that color. http://www.zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/ Good luck finding paint at a supplier in your color. They will just tell you "we can math any color." Because no one has the color codes from Datsun any more, you'll have to settle for something that is "close" instead of just mixing it to the Satsun colour formula.

The 260Z has a bumper that's skinnier than the 280Z and the ends are curved as if they wrapped around the corner.

Have you looked at the 260Z? They are indeed a rare model as they were only made for one year and the 240Z was made for three (or four) It is in between the 240Z and 280 in weight and you could probably do whatever you want with the engine(carbs or E.F.I.)

You're "supposed" to get three bolts to thread into the holes, and use a wheel puller to pull it off or us ea pulley puller if you can get the finger behind the hub, but some people will just tap on the center shaft while pulling on the hub. You might even put the wheel back on and jerk it all off. It's a kind of an art, but be careful with tapping so you don't damage the threads. You could google it for a video or text response.

I was able to restore my antenna using parts (a new plastic cable & mast) from an oem unit I got from eBay. The motor still wouldn't go after assembling because the brushes were worn or fell out, so I made new brushes using ones from a Ford alternator (I got brushes from NAPA.)

I heard that paint/body shops have a little gizmo that can measure the thickness of the paint. It probably includes the substrate under the top/color layer. You might just take the car to a friendly body shop or two and get some opinions?

Yeah. With enough interest or a group buy, maybe they would make one to the proper dimensions.

I had a funny connector for a while after I got the car, which was cleaned and things worked well. Then the switch itself got a little quirky, so sometimes only one side will work, but usually both sides do. Old cars can be that way.

I"ll just use urethane and/or rubber bushings... http://www.differencebetween.net/object/difference-between-urethane-and-polyurethane/