Z train

You really have to go way beyond "stock" in your engine to need more cooling than a porperly set-up factory system provides.

Or just buy another fan clutch.But if you do,go this route,call the maker and ask them what temp does the clutch lock-up at.Get the lower of the two.You would think that 810 & Z-car clutches are the same as they are visually identical,but they lock up at different temps. Or if,you have $$$$ buring a hole in your pocket-go electric.

The question i am referring to,is that you are leading up to doing something.What is it? But i digress. If you are thinking of going to an electric fan,do your homework on the CFM needed,also you'll have to make allowances for the extra amps the fan(s) will draw.and lastly,use the shroud that comes with the electric fan.

THe fan blade needs to be in a certain position in relation to the shroud.Ask your real question.

Warning about POR,if the metal doesn't have enough "tooth",the POR will peel in sheets like sunburned skin.

Interesting.Kinda counter productive for them.

The stuff in the tube.And let it COMPLETELY cure before starting the car.I've used it on header flanges for years now.Good stuff.

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http://www.paradisefoundshirts.com/Shirt-Collection.html Here's the link for the shirt.

I'm in Aruba(of all places) and i see this in a shop window.

Check all connections.Based on your description,the sender would be the next logical culprit.

Part of that is because you live in Gestapofornia.I 'm fortunate to have a PC guy near me with his own sandblasting booth and he is reasonable.He shoots satin black almost daily and i just drop off parts and he adds them to his "shoot for the day". Powdercoating is my new disease.Car stuff.MC stuff.House stuff.Ranch stuff.The wife got a little upset when i asked her if she thought the cat would look good in "Copper vein".

Powdercoating is superior to paint in every measurable way.Except price.

THe copper permatex is in a tube.And "Anti-sieze" is magical stuff.A drop the size of a pin-head will do every nut and bolt on your entire car.Every car on the property,your neighbors car.Your neighbors dog AND cat. You'll understand this comment after you've used the stuff.

Voltage while running should be 13 to 14 volts.

Fastchick: Intake gasket just clean will do.If you want,you can use copper Permatex arouind the exhaust ports.- Anti-seize-is a good idea. The boots are still a dealer item as of July. No loctite on the manifold bolts.

1)True 2)I want to agree,but something is sticking in the back of my mind and i can't put my finger on it.Maybe something to do with vacuum. ANd i tend to agree with Nazgul about the reg.Too good to be true.Hit up your local speed shop.

Fastchick-i think you're getting way ahead of yourself.Fix the stock system in the stock configuration.There is nothing wrong with it all things being equal.Then move on from there. First thing i would do is install an inline fuel pressure guage between the filter & the fuel rail.The readings will tell you volumes.

That musta been a pain in the arse.

I have a similiar issue and i've narrowed it down to the check valve.

My point about the ECM is that it is the beginning of the system.On a vehicle this old(or just basic trouble-shooting)you need to establish a good baseline.So if appropriate verify the ECM and move on.My ECM drove me nuckin futs before i found the issue.

A spare is always a good idea.But you're forgetting that the location of the ECM has more to do with solder joint issues than bad equiptment.The kick panel where it is located is not only prone to "road shock& vibrations" but is also really close to the drivers door which gets opened & closed the most. Be really interesting to see how many ECMs & fuel pump relays were replaced because of solder joint issues. My 85 720 had a FP relay go bad and a 2 minute solder job fixed it.

Start at the beginning.Meaning the ECM.Make sure the connections are soldered correctly.Then "run out" all the connections to their end. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36903&highlight=ecm

For the manifold-fine.But the heat shield & exhaust manifold needs a "better" coating.

I'm not familiar with THAT product.I was referring to Jet-Hot or similiar product.