WingZr0

Oh yeah, BTW the gasket is made out of rubber if that means anything. As well as the Valve Cover and Cylender Head to Engine Block gaskets.

Nope I do relize I need a new gasket now. This hole is on the outside of the cylinder head right at the same place each Intake Manifold tube connects, i.e. where the Fuel Injectors sit above. All the FI Ports has this hole at the bottom of the port except for #6 . In the Drawing below, Black is the inner walls of the Fi Port as your looking down into it. Dark Grey is the outside of the Cylinder Head on the drivers side. White boxes are the Razor Slit looking things. Light Silver is the Siver Ring Arches Blue is the hole under the arch falling into the combustion chamber. Drawning of port at this link.... http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u280/Wingzr0/1%20pics/FIPort.jpg?t=1192979781 Ports 1 through 5 look like this but slightly off centered while on the number 6 port all you see is the top right half of the Silver Ring sitting on the bottom left of the port with the hole out of view trap between the Intake Manifold flange and the gasket. I'm just assuming this is where the hole leads to, but I am ready to go that extra mile and take this N47 head of the engine block and go through this thing up and down if need be. I like to know what I'm dealing with first so as not repeat a possible problem I may or may not have Just don't understand why all ports look the same when one does not. I'm I missing something here on this? I'l take pics of the ports latter today if that helps and hopefully get them uploaded, if not tommorow morning. ~Z~

I'm loading a JPEG drawing now. Give me a sec.

My engine combination is ~N42 Block ~N47 Head ~Japan N47 Intake Manifold ~33306A Exhaust Manifold on a Fuel Injected 1977 280Z 4 speed OK, Some of you may know I made mention of my #6 FI Port being clogged a.k.a. not getting gas. Well today I decided, since I'm saving money for a clutch, to take off the back half of the fuel rail connecting the number 4, 5 and 6 FI Ports and see if I can can unclog #6 with Chem Tool which I think is called B-12 (Some sort of adhesive, PCV, carb cleaner) After taking off the rail I could see down into the 4, 5 and 6 ports and saw that number 6 had some blackish wool like stuff in it. Looking at #4 and 5 on the other hand I saw only small amounts of the black stuff wear the top of port mets the cylinder head wall which had what appear to be razor slits. On the bottom of the port tube is a Silver Ring Arch shape on the cylinder head wall with a hole underneath it (kind of like a bridge) that I assume is wear the Air intake is but at the same time allows gas from the Fuel Injector to fall in and mix with the air in the combustion chamber. Ok, thats what numbers 4 and 5 look like but in the number 6 FI port, after removing the the blackish wool stuff, all I saw was the right half of the Silver Ring Arch hiding behind the bottom left hand side of the FI Port tube leaving no place for the gas to go except straight into the side of the cylinder head wall and the razor slit things :hurt: ! Taking off the first half of the fuel rail to look at numbers 1, 2 and 3 FI Ports I can see they all appeared same as 4 and 5 with a hole under the Silver Ring for gas from the injectors to go through. I assume this is how they're supposed to look? Each hole under the Silver Ring Arches get slighty off bottom center of the FI Port the further you go away from the middle of the cylinder head. I sprayed the Chem Tool in all ports and #6 didn't drain down into any hole only staying inside the port making a puddle of liquid. Letting it sit for a mintute or two I loosend up a couple of Intake mounting studs and the Chem Tool drained but I believe it was only between the Intake gasket and cylidner head wall. The Chem Tool still drains even after tighten back the mountin studs :dead: All the Intake manifold studs line up correctly and go in and out with ease so what is causing my Fuel Injector Port / Ports to not align? Thaynx for ANY help at all on this. ~Z~

Tell That Cat to Kiss Your A$$ ! In Stockton California, far as I know, your car does not have to be running in order to be in your drive way. The county tow truck came by my inlaws house and towed her non op car away. They said if it was in her driveway they couldn't tow it but since it was parked in the street it was on city property. My guess is your driveway is considered your "Private" Property and you can have what ever you want on it. A drive way is for a car and if you can physicaly take your car apart and put it back together again to make it run or look better then you should have the right to do that if you have the mechanical inclination to do so. If you like to wash your car in your own driveway then there should be no law saying you have to take it to a car wash because a "nieghbor" does'nt want to see it. Just the same as taking it to mechanic if you have the know how to do it / restore it yourself on your own property. Take some time and talk to your local Legal Aid department in your state or County and they can give advice on how to fight this and stick it to this Clown. The Legal Aid Dept. should be free far as I know since it's a Goverment office. If you do not get a lawyer or advice you like to hear keep asking or go to someone else untill you find a person who does cause these offices at times are known to have workers who are either crooked, lazy or just plain don't know what they're talking about. Thats the goeverment for ya Also get in touch with the SEMA Action Network aka SEMASAN at http://www.semasan.com/main/main.aspx?ID=/content/SEMASANcom/HomePage In matter of fact the Sema advertisement in this months issue (Sept '07) of Import Tuner magizine talks about this exact same scenario. SEMA's Job is to protect inviduals such as yourself and us in the Car Community against the hassle and redicules of Unlawful Goverment "Crackdowns" and uncaring, unkind, idiots like this guy. Heres an excerpt of what they're about, "The SEMA Action Network is a nationwide partnership of car clubs, and individual enthusiasts (like you) who work together to impact legislation that affects car and truck hobbyists of all kinds. By joining the SAN you will receive up-to-date alerts on hobby-related legislation in your state and across the country. Best of all – it’s free." Diffenately take time out of your 6 months and get touch with these two agencies and this assult on your way of life will not stand :rambo: If you need more advice let us know. ~Molotov~

You weren't joking . Solid, Solid

nOpe, but it rains like Mad though. What ever happens in Sac goes on here exactly 50 miles north of you on Highway 99 after splitting off of Interstate 5 heading the Reading way. Jeesh, I keep forgetting how close some of you guys are there. If I can get Ruby running right for more than 2 days in a row, I'll come down and see ya'll

We've got another one! ZeeOne+ is a member of the plus sign club ! ! :rambo: anybody else wants to join in? :cheeky:

I was just thinking does anyone drive there Z during the Winter. Ruby is my only Ride and I don't know if I should get a beater to drive during the winter and put Ruby in storage. Or just drive her when I can. The underside of Ruby is clean as a well taken care of car can be with Zero Rust on the framerails, or anywhere underneath for that matter, for being "restored" "refurbished" not to long in the past. Also has a nice layer of undercoating aswell, (THICK BLACK FUZZY LOOKING STUFF). The paint on the other hand has seen it's day and my plan is to get her repainted in the same Original color come spring. Which is why I'm thinking of still driving her considering I'll have to clean her up for the repaint anyway. The only rust I found anywhere was trace amounts of surface rust along the gas door rim edges where the paint has chipped away about .25 inch wide. And about 3 bubbles on the rocker panel under the paint beneath the drivers side 280Z emblem but further down still below the chrome rocker panel trim belt line. Just wanna get an idea of who'll still be driving thier Z for winter? ~Z~

And Flat Tops tambien ! :eek: If I had 30K, maybe. That is if it's on the up and up but like MEZZZ said, "As soon as you drive it....." :hurt: ~Z~ :rambo:

Heres a couple links to the Official Website. Dont forget to check out the video section for clips of the actual game SCREEN SHOTS http://www.gran-turismo.com/en/gt5p/screen/ VIDEOS http://www.gran-turismo.com/en/movie/ HOME PAGE http://www.gran-turismo.com/en/ ~Z~

You guys have gotta watch this thing get sideways http://www.gran-turismo.com/en/movie/d1072.html ~Z~

I see your point :eek: 1970 LS6 style Oh yeah, and Welcome.

Why? I'd figured thumbs UP.

Is it supposed to run when in the ON position or only when cranking the Engine. I can still here my tunes though in the AC position

Check it out... $155 U.S. These things are still commanding high prices :cross-eye http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=020&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=300159165200&rd=1

Yeah, I hear mine running on "77 when turn the key into the on position too. Humming sound when I want to listiening to the radio :cheeky:

Nothing against the new design but I like the Wall Tagging 280 better, you should do a version of that with a smaller Z logo above it centered between the kills and the '80 tagging. Or anotha idea for the first design is put the Z log on the Tail "rear fender" between the back wheel well and the end of the body centered under the gas tank door. Or Lastly center the Z logo on the 45 degree angle between the back wheel well and the gas tank door. The last 2 ideas would at least give you a Tail Fin insignia :rambo: ~Z~

Gorgeous 玻璃樽 Absolutely bleeming gorgeous :classic: Especially like the way you "Tagged" 280 on the sides and did the mission count. I'd drive around in it Fo Sho :laugh: :rambo: ~Z~

I think those loooook Sic ! Has the old Mopar Dodge Demon, Cuda look I would leave the center caps off like Dodge did and maybe get a center ball for the rear rims to match the fronts. That way you would have a simple and clean matching look on all 4 rims. If you need an idea where to get ball caps pick up a copy of Mopar Monthly and see their advertisments for a company or 2 that sells vintage Repro rims for muscle cars, I'm pretty sure they could hook you up with what you would need Not that it's a bad Idea but every one does have Z center caps (including me :cheeky: ) ~Z~

I know I'm jus making he didn't actually do it cause I was gonna take off my own head by praticing on and hopefully replacing it with the one of the three N42's at the tow yard. That is untill I saw how easy those bolts broke :bandit: Blakes right on that. Testing the Fuel presure should of came first. At least that way you could either rule out or confirm the fuel preasure as the problem. If the injectors are still attached to the rail you can put the rail back on the car maybe and test the fuel preasure then. The test gauge is about $35 - $40 at any auto part store and is easy to hook up. But what is it your trying to do now exactly since you got the rail off? I would give solid advice If I could but without testing the preasure first we could be going after a "Phantom Problem" blind now when the test could of lead us to the cause. Before you do anything else you should wait and hopefully the more experienced members here can steer you right or suggest what to do. All is not lost though ~Z~

Don't unbolt that head ! ! I praticed on a tow yard Z taking a engine apart and took off the fuel rail etc. etc. etc... But when I went to take the Head off every last one of those bolts broke. AS IN IN HALF ! Don't know what I could've done different not to break them but those bolts holding that head on were weak as fragile concret. ~Z~

That makes. I'm diffently dragin this thing so last thing I need is a brooken flywheel ! What be stock Flywheel wieght BTW? The Nakamura one is the lightest I've seen at 7.245 pounds and I have to think Nismo don't make 'em that light.

Oh , Jus my wierd way of saying gettinthe car to go in 1st ^^ Thyanx for the info on the pedal free play and return spring info. I'm really not looking for the put your body wieght into it pedal effort or the NHRA Top Fuel launchy'ness but something more of mild upgrade for quicker revs for higher RPM's when I do a cam swap. A balance between that and something that won't stress me out when I'm trying to cruise or break the passengers neck :nervous: I spose I have alotta reading to do ~Z~

your right.