geezer

This is pretty much all there is to it. The GST rate was 6% but must have changed since I brought back the last vehicle. I have the Vehicle Import Form- Form 1 from Transport Canada in my hand. There are two sections on the front of the form. Only one has to be filled out. The one I had to complete says: COMPLETE ONLY FOR VEHICLES NOT REQUIRED TO ENTER THE REGISTRAR OF IMPORTED VEHICLES PROGRAM. Of the seven boxes I only had to check the one that says: Vehicle is 15 years old or older - then sign and date it. It is the American side that requires 48 hours lead time with all pertinent info, to check for leins. No cost there. It only took about 5 minutes. Arriving in Canada just pay the GST, after they give it a quick look, comparing VIN and Conformance Tag with the bill of sale and you are on your way. Takes 10 minutes if everything is in order and there is no line at the counter. The PST has to be paid when the vehicle is registered. Congrats on the sale Marty...and the new track car! And another Z in Ontario..still need more, keep bringing them North!

Not so much a correction, but maybe tweaking, nitpicking...whatever. You have a good basic plan here and your explanations have helped me understand it better. The Safety Switch is a problem for me. You would have to get into the habit of flipping that switch off everytime you have started the car. It's your choice but I would prefer having a Starter Button equipt with a spring loaded, hinged protection cover, which is fool proof, instead of a switch that you may forget to flip off. The Alt Coil Relay; I think I just have a problem with the name and the lack of separation from any alternator wiring. Replacing it with a dedicated Ignition Relay would simplify future trouble shooting of both the ignition circuit and charging circuit. Just something to think about. I will draw up an idea for you to look over. Do you have the SCCA rules covering the venues you are interested in? Lots of help can be found from the guys on this site. It would be a good thing, to be well versed on the rules before you waste any time and money on things that may have to be changed in order to comply. Now that I know the reasoning behind the Reverse Flood Light, I would think the best option would be fixing the stock switch & wiring for the backup lights. Fusible Links are typically found in close proximity of high amp sources and intended to protect the downstream wiring. It's much easier to replace a fusible link than a football field length of wiring that is wrapped and tucked out of sight before reaching the fusebox. They are never used inside a vehicle and if you have ever seen a fusible link blow out in the dark you would know why. The fuses used for protecting individual circuits have a tendency to wear down over time from the effects of accessory start up where you can have a brief amperage spike of twice the fuse rating and also from the corrosion and consequenses of over time. I have seen some fusible links that are still doing their job 30 plus years later. The people that have modernized their cars with Maxi fuses seem to be happy with the results and I haven't heard of any problems from anyone doing so. They are just better in the sense of being more convenient, durable and I would say safer with less chance of fire occurring from a flash burnout.

Little bit of a boo boo there showing a neg. at the starter? For clarity you should show the starter solenoid with the correct connections. Improvements can be made here. The alternator charge wire should connect directly to the starter solenoid and then continue on to the Fusebox/Power Distribution Center. For later consideration, the diode should be as close to the alternator as possible for easy accessibility. The “Alt Coil Relay” can be eliminated. The alternator doesn’t require a relay and the 12V to the Coil can be supplied by an Ignition Switch that would replace what you are calling the Safety Switch, which does nothing where it is presently located. The Kill Switch is the only way to shut off the engine in your diagram, other than the "Alt Coil Switch", which should be gone, or the Fuel Pump Switch. I would put the Kill Switch where it would do just that. Kill everything. Having the Battery located in the storage compartment, it would be easy to locate the Kill Switch within easy reach. Then again, you probably have it figured out where you are going to hide it already. No sense advertising that. It also seems to be inconvenient, having to flip a switch for a Reverse Flood Light. A little creativity here would make it an automatic feature, taking the possibility of human error out of the equation, converting the switch to an override function instead. I would also incorporate Fusible Links or better yet Maxi Fuses into the circuit. I see the potential for lots of improvements, which will also keep it simple. If you want, I can make a few quick drawings to explain better.

These illustrations should clear things up for you. Although GM SI alternators are used as examples, a ZX internal regulating 3-wire alternator should follow the same principals. I took a pic showing the diode connected to my multimeter. You can see the band on the end of the diode signifying the direction current can travel. Consider the band the point of an arrow. The diode will prevent the engine from "running on" after the ignition switch has been turned off. They are $1.59 for a package of 3. In the first illustration, the basic "it will work" method is shown. Ok for a car with very limited battery draw from accessories and maybe what you want but most of us would benefit from the second example. Edit: Sure, the Autometer light will work as long as it is wired in between the ignition switch and the alternator. Myself, I like the convenience of a light, as it keeps you more aware of how/or if your charging system is functioning. Just a note concerning the second illustration: The #2 sense wire will better regulate a heavily taxed electrical system if connected to a distant fused source.

I can understand the concern getting the alternator wiring correct. I haven't had the experience of converting to an internally regulated alternator of the Nissan variety, but have done so with GM SI-10 & SI-12 alternators for years. We liked them because of the ease of wiring, cheap cost and in our boats it didn't matter what direction the SIs alternators rotated. I imagine the same principals apply. I have always used a diode in line on the excite wire instead of a resistor, tapped into the fused ignition run circuit. It must be a dead circuit, when in your case the ignition switch is off. The sense wire should come from the far reaches of a likewise fused circuit. You cannot connect directly to a Batt feed. The alternator would not be able to accurately compensate for accessory loads if connected directly to the battery. One other thing I notice is the absense of a ground wire coming off the alternator lug, which should run to the neg. battery post. Don't just rely on the ground provided by mounting if you want to avoid trouble. I did notice the one comment on HybridZ relating to the importance of your diagram. I think it is very important, especially as time goes by. It has been about ten years since I designed and built my last complete custom harness and without all the crude drawings and hand written explanations I made at the time, I would be in for a whole new learning experience, when it came time for troubleshooting. Here's a few examples of the crude drawings and explanations I found nessesary at the time. You may be able to use the fuel pump circuit.

It is very convenient to locate a Power Distribution Center, housing the nessesary fuses and relays in the engine compartment, minimizing the lengths of wire needed to power the forward lighting, horns, fan(s), etc. I'm curious to see where you will locate it, keeping it out of sight but easily accessible. Just as the original wiring was divied into an engine harness, instrument panel harness and body harness, you will find your new electrical system will more or less follow the same exact pattern with the exception of adding relays into the circuits. There is one thing I would like to point out. It doesn't make any difference how you wire the relays with the circuits you have created in your diagram but it is not the way I normally do it. You are supplying voltage to pin 87 of the relay, which when triggered allows voltage to exit via pin 30. I have always reversed this; in pin 30 - out pin 87. The circuit will work the same, but you can also take advantage of pin 87A having voltage while at rest only, in case you wanted to utilize that feature. The other way you can't. Minor detail, otherwise, great diagram as far as I can see!

Enrique, I took a quick look in the S30-PS30 FairladyZ parts catalog. It shows listings of 7 different engine harnesses, 12 instrument panel harnesses and 8 body harnesses. That is covering the Japanese domestic market for the 1970 model year only. That is why most of the wiring diagrams are generic in nature and were always subject to change or in a state of being updated. Although the US/Canada diagrams were simpler because of limited optional equipment, they were constantly evolving as well. My eyes are not so good anymore and it pains me to look at a diagram such as this one (camera shot). It is from our archives and may be of some interest. I have others, I will look for later.

Arne, I know you found the stems you needed, but do you think the SpeedStar valve stems would have worked for your application? http://www.rhdjapan.com/ssr-speed-star-sp1-valve-stem-15in-16in-wheels-55283

This could be the thread. The problem for most, would be the increased floor space needed to use it and as Jon has said the convenience of being able to rotate 360 degrees is much better. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/71493-econo-wooden-car-tilter-designs/

I think you will re-draw your diagram again, when it becomes evident improvements can be made. It could be for simplicity of wire routing or an attempt to hide the harness components. Certainly nothing I could point out right now, but circumstances you may come across when the theory becomes reality. Looks pretty good so far, you are off to a good start and I for one will enjoy following your progress. I like the simplistic nature of the Z and a simple, reliable electrical system will absolutely compliment your car. Good luck!

You need to add several more circuits into your plan. Most are a matter of convenience but some are nessesary. Your diagram doesn't show the horn button, relay or horns. I don't know if you are planning on running an electric fuel pump. If so you will want to incorporate an emergency shutdown circuit also. Other conveniences that come to mind are door switches, dome/interior lighting, windshield washers, rheostat, glove box light, rear defroster grid, handbrake indicator, antenna switch. The horn and windshield washers are needed to make it legal, everything else, your choice to add in or not. There are some good charts available to determine wire gauges. Other than that, planning good circuit protection and wire routing are your main concerns. Is your battery going to be in the stock location? From looking at your diagram, it appears you are taking the minimalist approach. Is this intentional? Are you going for the hidden/invisible harness look? Just trying to get on the same page. Look up the recent thread, where I described how to number/label circuits, connectors, wires, making it easy to layout/follow a harness. I think it was cbudvet's thread. I'll look it up and link it here. Could be helpful. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=314100&postcount=9 http://www.rbeelectronics.com/wtable.htm

For your first time attempting to re-wire a car, you have a very good understanding of the circuitry and I am sure you will be successful. Just a matter of planning the physical layout of the harnesses and making use of some better connectors. I am guessing you will be using weatherpack connectors? Nice project, good luck! http://www.electerm.com/packardweather.html

Cool! 5%...every bit helps! Thanks for sharing! Need to figure out if I need anything from them.

Don't limit your options just because you want to use the existing holes. It's not too hard to relocate the holes. It would be more appealing to me if the exhaust holes were located a bit more to center than that. But that's just me. Two members come to mind, that have or are in the process of running dual pipes and are sure to chime in with their advise. Madkaw & Zsondabrain both have devoted a lot of time doing this and have it figured out.

Very limited driving range also, only holding 12 gal. although that's what you asked for. The price is actually at the lower end of the spectrum. Sounds like you will need to do a custom installation with a conventional fuel cell or a substitute tank, in order to save $$.

http://www.ogracing.com/catalog/2-Car/31-Fuel-Cells/item-840-ATL-WELL-CELL-FUEL-CELL

Bob M makes a good point. You will have to make a determination based on cost and ease of repair. Sometimes, it is best to just replace and other times you can amaze yourself with the great results achieved. I have dabbled in trim straightening and also have been given a few tips from the pros. Each piece has to be carefully studied before attempting to repair. It may sound funny but depending on the complexity of the damage, an order has to be mapped out in the straightening process. A few simple dings in a drip rail should not present too much of a problem, but there are a few things to watch out for. Whenever possible remove a ding with applied pressure from the backside while supporting the surrounding area securely. You dont want to create collateral damage adjacent to your repair. Most stainless trim is very thin and can be stretched out of shape if unecessarily hammered on or not supported properly. The tools used are important too. A variety of hardwood or fiber sticks shaped appropriately for the task at hand are best. Take your time and apply pressure in increments, ensuring you don't bend it farther then needed, stretching the metal. Sometimes, the use of a hammer and striking tool will be needed, if there is a rather sharp crease or it requires more pressure to be applied. Each situation is different and the piece will need to be assessed and the proper tooling fabricated as needed. As you remove the ding or dent it is easy to gauge if it is staightened sufficiently by running a small piece of fine sandpaper on a block over it, showing high and low spots. Remember how thin the stainless is and note how much material can be removed when you start blocking over the repaired area. As with paint repair, you want to start sanding with graduated grits over a larger area to prevent any waves or dips showing in the finish work. There are some great products available for the final polishing. Do a search on the methods used. If using a buffing wheel, extreme caution has to be used to prevent "snagging" of your part. I've launched a few pieces and ruined a few in my haste over the years. You have nothing to lose, by attempting to remove the dings yourself. Good luck!

Looks great! I thought that cam cover was the work of DeesZ (John) when I saw it. Real nice color for a Z and is sure to stand out in a crowd. When I first bought my Z the underside of the hood, door jambs, etc. were freshly painted that color. you can see it in the last page of my gallery. The PO was going to paint the car that color. I still have that hood and haven't repainted it yet. I like it.

Yes, it is being done the right way and for the money I don't blame him not wanting to chase after unnecessary touchups. Great price, 5 grand. He must be bagging it on the beach!

I think your painter is expecting to see the brake/fuel lines in place as well as the engine. I don't think it is crucial to have any of this done first and would be your call. After all, he is working for you, right. He is just concerned about his work being damaged during re-assembly. Have the undersides of the hood, hatch, or inner periphery of the doors been painted yet? It would be preferable before hanging them but not nessesary. You decide if it is more important to paint these areas while off the car, so a better job can be done, or after being hung, which is easier for him. I wouldn't put any weatherstripping or glass on the car untill the painting is completely done. Whatever is installed will have to be masked off before any further painting is done. Hawaii hey? Lucky dog!

I have seen this problem firsthand. I never did find an answer as far as a root cause. It has happened to others regardless of the different brand names on the boxes the ball joints came in. It has happened with both 11mm & 14mm balljoints. The fix was so simple, I didn't bother to research the root cause any further. I found the best solution was to remove a small amount of material from the control arm, allowing the bolt holes to align properly. It will not weaken or alter the suspension geometry. You could also remove some material from the ball joint or a combination of both, but I felt more comfortable taking it from the control arm.

That was one benefit of replacing my floors. The new ones came with the indentations for the retractable belts. What I lost in originality, I gained in practicality.

I think lonetreesteve is right. Someone obviously can't leave it alone, for whatever reason. Too bad, because it is a nice feature to have on this site.

The rust you see is just the tip of the iceberg. I agree 100% with esprist. Spend the money up front for a better rust free starting point, unless you enjoy spending lots of time & money replacing the rusted metal.

Congrats! Did you question the missing VIN tag? The previous owner may have set it aside during some resto work? I hope that won't be a problem for you. You have been getting great advise and the only thing I could reiterate is, keep your priorities straight. Make it safe, make it reliable and everything else will fall into place. It looks like a fairly solid car that will clean up nicely. Good luck with it!