Caen Fred

Dry your tears, the dash was shot at seven!!!!!!!!!!!! places. Way beyond repairs. Thanks to the californian sun.

How and now for the annoying part, I forgot how noisy is the tic-tac of the clock. That is until the Twice pipe come to life

Now that I had my electrical system sorted I wanted to check the condition of my gauges, the fuel was erratic and the clock... dead. I read all about the ease of taking the gauges out from the glove box but I do not have Japanese midget hands. So I took my dash cap out, grasped my dremel and butchered the top of the dash above the gauges. I now had all the space I needed. I took the gauges out in 2 minutes, took them apart dusted them mist them with a spray of electrical cleaner. I just had to fit the cap on the dash again and now all is back in place and working. All in all it was a 20 minutes job. Try that with your fancy non cracked dash

Are we sure the diagram for the fitting of the check-valve is correct in the Haynes? It would not be it's first error! May a knowledgeable person check, please?

Oh I see. Yet the pedal travel is long only if I reverse the valve-check

I have std 1972 rear drums. I have fitted an adjusting prop valve at the rear for a later rear discs conversion. How is it related to the check valve ?

I will sort it all one dayLOL I have a quickie about the check valve. I have 280ZX front brakes with a 280ZX booster and master cyl on my 240Z legs... If I use the check valve the way it supposed to, the brakes are very firm and not too powerful. If I reverse it, the brakes are quite strong but the pedal travel is enormous Any thoughts?

Time will tell... but after a slow check of everything... I found a 4/5 broken connector at the alternator. Invisible if you don't have the nose on it I don't believe in cursing and voodoo:finger: but now that I have fixed my electrical system, the tank is leaking :disappoin Tell me, how does it feel to have a normal life?

Hmmm, it's mostly when I put the lights on that ALL goes dead

I think so as the FI is working fine direct from the battery? Is there an other ground to check beside the main one?

I will make it short (ha ha). Erratically the electrical power goes dead. Not just the headlight, but gauges, turn signals, warning... the full monty! I have an upgraded 60amp Alt, an Optima battery, and a std 1972 240z The alternator is good, I converted my car to FI and I am able to read my ECU on a laptop with an USB connection and it gives consistent 13,5 - 14 amp all the time, even when all is dead. The ECU and fuel pump is on a separate loom coming from the battery, so the car still run when the old system is acting funny!

I think that it would really be neat to have induction tarmac. In other way, turning the asphalt into one big Slot car track without the need for center rail nor the brush. Look at it this way, Z are also very good in Scalextric world As for the sound, a big surround system and preset sounds of what ever you want to play. 6 with triples, SU, or V8, V12 or Grizzly bear roar, just pump up the volume

We're a lot into "electrique" over here to tame the ecologists. Which is funny, the way I see it, it's like the old story of the Shaman pointing the moon and the fool looking at it's finger. An electric car is an NUCLEAR powered car in France:surprised The car is using electricity, OK, but how do you produce electricity

MerZi...

No, I don't have this kind of money to put in my car The beauty of this setup is that it's rebuildable, as long as the shop exist! The cost for a refurbishing to new conditions was 400$ to my door steps. I was thinking last night about going for a stronger front sway bar? I have the camber bushes are the plates better? From what I understand, some of those plates can manage camber + caster?

Thanks, I am using LEDA. It's a factory based in the UK that build race or fast roads suspensions. http://www.leda.com/ They use the shell from the original 240Z and build new shocks inside with their own rods and calipers inside. They are custom made to your request. The set I use was totally refurbish last year to the original spec sheet from 1992. What are the std chassis spec for a 240Z, in ° ?

I would say that the wheels don't "talk" to each other. The car isn't really hard to drive, I can leave my hand off the steering without fear. Yet the initial turning isn't crisp. The steering feel heavy, no dramatic understeer but more of a lazyness.

The car has new poly bushes all around. New LEAD coilover. The car is droped +- 2 in front and 1.5 in the rear. Std front sway bar, no rear sway bar. Tires are Kenda 205x65x14 My setting are: Front Camber left 0°46 - right 0°39 Caster left 1°57 - right 2°31 Toe left 0°03 - right 0°03 Rear Camber left 0°03 - right -0°11 Toe left 0°13 - right 0°04 I have the MSA front and rear camber kit on my shelves should I use it? The car is for Sunday spirited driving, and track days!

the car started again for no reason:lick: I have just put the plugs back in... I hate it when the hick-up goes away without knowing what the trouble was. Well I see tomorrow if it will start it again.

The cables are checked and fine. The starter crank the engine fine one turn, it's when the compression is building itself that all appears to die. If I crank it again just after it does the same thing. Strong one crank then nothing. It only wants to turn the engine with all the plugs out:confused: The battery is full and 3 month old.

OK I parked a running (bad but moving on it's own) car! And now the car won't crank, it crank fine with a clear sound one or 2 times then cut and nothing... The battery is a red optima fully charged. I have spark I have fuel I have new plugs I have a new 60amp alternator The strange part, if I take all the plugs out, the engine crank OK, as soon as I put even only one plug it refuse to crank ? And that wherever I put the plug !!!! This is driving me mad!

It wouldn't be fair to claim paternity for this setup. I had the idea for a long time and discuss it with Rick at http://pattonmachine.com/ I was in fact developping the same setup for 3 downdrafts and made a pose to try this path with Rick. Once runing and dynoed I will resume the first project! He is an awesome man and truly crafted! We have been exchanging for more than 6 month on this and I think he will make a batch of them if you want to.

No but you could, it's a GM ECU with a std map, I need to collect data to burn a new one. My engine is an L28 with a fast/road cam on a P90 1mm milled head with an old Thunderbird full line exhaust... 6/2/1 --- dynomax ---- 2 twice pipes

So here it is, fuel injected SU I mounted 1 GM injectors in both SU. I have a GM ECU that's monitoring sensors for MAP, TPS, Water, LAMBADABADA, and Coil. The thing is 100% stealth for the novice I think. My idea is to have the standard looking car but with the driveability of a modern car, good gas mileage or crazy Mapping for the track... Lot of tuning to do but it is running very strong until the battery drains out!!!! fresh air the only thing that give a clue I will hide it later TPS and SU still keeping the SU's dome MAP sensor Pièce de résistance the GM injector under the SU's dome et voilÃ