zKars

You can disconnect (then short them together? Not sure if they're normally open or closed...) those two free wires from the key switch that tell the thing when the key is "in" and at least fool that side of the equation. Like buckling the seat belt behind you to get past that interlock cause that belt drives you crazy....

I defintely have one if you need it. It's like new. Came from a 76. $40 + shipping is fine. Remember that the 240 regulators are very similar but not the same, The 280 regs are deeper/thicker where they mount to the door (3/4 vs ~1/4").

Fine. Stomp all over our compulsion to be overly helpful... Rx7 in a heartbeat....

I have a Facet 60SV in my Z. It is equivalent in appearance to the Nismo one. I can hear it with the engine off, but just barely. Nice quiet pumping sound. I find that all the "bigger" pumps I've tried are very noisy which I attribute to air cavitation from not being able to pump at or near their rated volume without a proper return system. There is no reason for any electic pump that is moving pure fluid (not air) at normal volumes to make hardly any noise other than standard electic motor humm.. If its making noise, its not moving anything but air as it re-circulates within its own pressure relief cavity (if so equiped) and letting you know it! I have the usual fears of the quaity (reads life expectancy) of the facet pump I have, I am extremely tempted to eat the cost and treat my Z to a proper made in Japan Nismo pump. Youz gets what youz pays for in this case I think...

This is the best electric pump if you are interested in OEM quality and suitability http://www.ebay.com/itm/NISMO-Electric-Fuel-Pump-DATSUN-510-1200-24 0Z-B10-280Z-B110-S110-120Y-Nissan-/221407112643?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item338ce46dc3&vxp=mtr

Hang on. I'm reading ceggs11's first post again and now I'm not sure which bolts he's talking about. There is no one bolt that passes through or into the Strut, Ball joint and control arm. The ball joint is connected flat to the control arm with two 8mm and two longer 10mm bolts. The two 10's also capture the end of the T/C rod. New ball joints usually come with these four bolts. Perhaps this solve your problem and get you new ball joints at the same time. The Ball joint is connected to the steering knuckle with a tapered end of the ball joint post and a castle nut. The strut is connected to the steering knuckle with the 12 mm bolts from below I refer too above. All of the vendors that sell bump stop spacers manage to find good quality 8x1.25, 10x1.25 and 12x1.25 hardware. There are several vendors on line, McMaster Carr, BelMetric, Fastenal, Wurth etc. The only bolts maybe worth getting OEM's of are the shoulder bolts that are 12x1.25x30's. If you really want an OEM bolts, I have some.... They called Kevin Kostner "Dances with Wolves". They would have called me "buckets of rusty bolts"...

CanTechZ Now that's good to hear! Thanks for the personal feedback about Fibrenew. I had another purely local outfit (CRTechniques) do a small dash crack repair 5-6 years ago that was perfect, invisible, and still looks the same, but it wasn't cheap, like $150 or so for a 2" long crack. I brought them the dash too. I'll maybe have a fibrenew guy come look at a couple of others I have in similar shape and see if it makes sense to do the repairs that way rather than attempt the usual Foam/SEM product approach.

If quiet is the goal, then a new stock mechanical pump is the best IMHO. No electrical, turns its self on, was always meant to be there anyway....

Fibre New has been around a while as well http://www.fibrenew.com/

I have this tool and use it extensively. It works like magic. Makes using the cheap harbor freight/Princess Auto POS feel like a toy. The one time I had to use it on a car to repair a broken brake line was a pain, as it relys on being clamped in a vise. The copper/nickel alloy brake line is magical as well. The stuff that Fedhill sells is priced really well, and it was all I used until one day I ran out in the middle of a job. Called around and found an outfit in town (Greggs Distributing) that stocks some of the BrakeQuip tools and lines (they also make SS braided and standard brake lines to order), including their version of the Cunifer soft line. It was even softer and easier to work with than the FedHill stuff. It was more expensive, like x2....

Oh no you two, don't be tempting me. This winter is filled with other kinds of Datsun fun. The square and homely kind!

It's little wonder that your paranoia has been peaked given that you've had dealings with a body shop recently! So he's looking for a Z mechanic eh? Wonder if I could commute? My wife works for WestJet, must be 15 flights a day from Calgary to Toronto, should be able to work something out.... Guess I need to retire first too...

I completely agree with the responses. You are in no danger of any legal problems. He is simply mad at you. If he were in fact an honourable person, he would be doing everything he can to satisfy your concerns. Run, don't walk away.

oh baby....

Technically the two ujoints in the steering shaft should be phased 90 degrees apart from each other so that you balance the acceleration oscillation that happens as you turn the shaft, but only a true anal OCD nutcase would go to the trouble or even claim to be able to feel the difference. Just take the wheel off and center it. If that doesn't get it perfect, you have to tweak the tie rod ends a bit (both same direction, same amount) to shift it half a spline. When my wheel isn't perfectly straight, I tell my passenger I'm holding it crooked 'cause I'm bucking a strong crosswind.... Funny, the wind always blows from the left side of the car.....

Patcon, send to me, I'll post it for you. z240@shaw.ca You could try, click "More Reply Options", then the " Browse" button, then find the file and select it, click "Open". Then click "Attach This File", then finally (yes one more step), click the blue "Add to Post" link that shows up below the name of the file you loaded, this will add some text to your message. here is how this stuff looks

Here is another way to look at it. Gives you the before and after picture so you can visualize the changes. Headlight_relay.pdf

Gone. Now I'll never find out if it came with "goat tracks" or "coat racks".. ..

Does not exist. Has to be fabricated. both Vintage Air and other custom AC vendors sells the basic brackets that fit the Sanden, then fabricate plates etc to mount it to your particular application. There was another thread either here or hybridz just last week about this. Do a bit of searching.

Now there is what you call a total waste of published space. Nothing to be learned or gained from it. Please don't make them feel any more important or informed by clicking on that link... No wait, you mean someone is getting PAID to write that crap? Maybe my next career is staring me right in the face! I can put together stories about un-related cars and make up some BS connection all day long!

As soon as I start typing a reply, a two row tool bar appears above the typing area. "My Media" is center on the top row of button. My attachments are all in there. Not sure if there is any other way to get to it. Seems like you should be able to without it being part of a "reply" action.

Granny, you're on the right track. That 123dizzy can do it for you. Use as many cylinders as you can AND use a fuel jet or something similar to make a small orifice to further smooth the signal.

I've looked at some R//C engine silicon fuel line. Its very soft. It's rated for some pretty volatile fuels, like nitrous. Depending on which you choose, some have 400F/200C temp range. Cold end as well, like -112F. Just about right for around here. crap I hate winter.... Like this stuff: http://www.coleparmer.ca/Product/Tygon_Silicone_Tubing_1_16_ID_x_3_16_OD_50_ft_pack/RK-95702-02 At the very least, why not hook up what fuel line you choose in nice loop or coil rather than insisting on making that 180 bend and being bothered by kinking and hardening? Just rambling..

Advance is something that gets applied/removed with varying load conditions. I'd like to play with it too to see what I could achieve, but in general, I'll let the vacuum do the advancing.